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Book says to change every 12,000 miles,checked with the dealer and respose was "it's as expensive as a full service" wow 850.to 1100. $.So 60.00 for a K&N filter,approx.time 4 hours to accomplish the deed and I was done.Down side,at 210000 miles it didn't even look dirty.By my calculations the dealer wanted 250.00 to 300.00 per hour.I know we hve to support the dealer network,but come on guys,we are riders not Dot Com millionaires.
 

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Wow, 210,000 miles! A typo, right?

Good for you and your money savings. Plus you've learned a lot about your bike.

A word of caution. I also used a K&N filter and serviced it a few times over 100,000 miles or so on my 2000 K1200LT. My dealer said that the K&N was letting a lot of dust in and sandblasting my engine. He suggested I go back to the factory paper which I did. He had seen the same thing in nearly all K&N filters. I had a K&N filter in my used motorhome when I bought it. I ordered a replacement and when I removed the K&N I could see fine dust downstream of the filter. The new filter is using nanofiber technology and is 99% efficient at 1 micron, and I did not see any dust downstream of the filter 10,000 miles later. I want that filter for my 2006 K1200LT, but it won't be available until later this year.

If you look at the K&N testing and specs, I believe the test they run is the one using large particles. It lets nearly all particles 15 micron (I think) and smaller go through right into the engine. The particles 15 to 5 micron cause most of engine wear. Also, hold a K&N filter up to light and look at all the holes you can see. Most other filter companies use the smaller dust particle test.

The advantage of K&N is they flow more air through if needed, but also allow more dust through. The stock filters allow more than enough air flow for an unmodified engine, yet provide better filtration.

Do some research and see what you come up with.
 

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I would not touch a K&N with someone else's 10 foot pole! Snake oil of the highest viscosity! A lot of money for an engine destroying product.
 

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k1200lt air filter

I know I need to, but I haven't purchased a shop manual for my LT yet. Hoping to find pics and descriptions for the work, I have done searches for "air filter". The searches always come back with hits for "filter" with the word "air" being very common, too long, or too short and were not included in my search. Searching through 17 pages hoping to find something pertaining to changing the air filter causes overload. Can anyone tell me where to find this maintenance section? Thanks
 

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I've used K&N filters in every motorcycle I have owned. What makes the K&N filter work properly though is oil. If there is not enough oil on the filter, it will not trap particles as it should. Just because it looks pink doesn't mean it has enough oil on it. You need to clean them regularly and then oil them again if you expect them to work properly.
 

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I've heard others say the same thing. But lab tests show that K&N filters allow large enough dust particles through the filter to cause engine wear. Are you certain you are trapping 99% of 5 to 15 micron particles in your K&N? Do you think an oil film is going to stop particles at high cubic feet per minute flow rates through a filter that you can see through holes with the naked eye? What about the mechanics that cringe when you mention K&N and they say that none they have ever serviced seem to be working?

Do some research and see what you come up with. Please let us know what you learn.

The good news is that I've used K&N filters for about 100,000 miles each on a ST1100 and a K1200LT. The bad news is all the wear which would have been reduced if I had just stayed with the stock filter. But if the trade off is ok, and you stay clear of dust, and you put less than a 100,000 miles on the filter, then it might work out for you, but likely not for the next owner. I will never own another K&N unless they get rid of the current design.
 

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I will do some more research on the K&N oil filter, but if the problem only occurs at 100000 miles then I have no problem anyway. I've yet to put that many miles on a motorcycle. The most I ever put on a motorcycle was 25000 miles. I gave it away when I wore the splines on the gearshift lever down to nubs. Too much in-city traffic. Too much shifting. :)

I do plan to buy an LT later this year. And I do expect to put some long distance miles on it. So I will check and see what I can find on K&N filters before I put one in it.
 

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I agree with Tim. That's fine for you, but what about the next guy that owns your bike??

I would rather spend the money on the filter. The expense and effort is getting in there to replace it. Regardless, you will still need to get in there to maintain the filter. Penny wise and pound foolish..
 

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The only way you can really tell if a air filter is working is to do an oil analysis.
Everything else is just too subjective.
 

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nplenzick is correct. For $20-30 you can have your motor oil analyzed. It will look for silicon from dust coming through the air filter, wear metals, viscosity, oil additives, viscosity, acid neutralizing ability, coolant, moisture, gasoline and more. They will even recommend that you should change your oil or run even longer. Or suggest you may be having mechanical issues. I plan to have my engine oil, transmission and final drive fluids analyzed before my warranty runs out to catch any mechanical issues that might have gone unnoticed before the warranty runs out.

Wacolt - good find on the filter testing information.

I also have paper, wet gauze, and nanofiber comparative filtration available at the Amsoil Vendor Forum if anyone would like more information, just post a question over there. I can also provide more information on Used Oil Analysis.
 

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rglassma said:
I agree with Tim. That's fine for you, but what about the next guy that owns your bike??
No disrepect intended, but the "next guy" argument is totally invalid. First I would not intentionally do anyting to damage my motorcycle. Secondly what I choose to do to my motorcycle is for me to decide. The "next guy" can make his choices when he owns my motorcycle.

As far as this issue regarding air filters, I was unable to find any instance on the internet where a K&N air filter damaged an engine. If you have a specific URL from an independant testing facility then post it and I will consider it.

In the mean time, the way I see it is:

1) High flow air filters (like K&N or Amsoil) all allow more particulate matter to be ingested, but provide better performance.

2) Low flow air filters limit the particulate matter (but do not eliminate it) ingested by the engine, but also lessen performance.

Such being the case, I'll stick with the K&N air filters. I have them in my Concours (soon to be sold), my gasoline powered radio control helicoptor, and on order for my R1100RT.
 

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You should use whatever works for you.
ArthurKnowles said:
No disrepect intended, but the "next guy" argument is totally invalid. First I would not intentionally do anyting to damage my motorcycle. Secondly what I choose to do to my motorcycle is for me to decide. The "next guy" can make his choices when he owns my motorcycle.

As far as this issue regarding air filters, I was unable to find any instance on the internet where a K&N air filter damaged an engine. If you have a specific URL from an independant testing facility then post it and I will consider it.

In the mean time, the way I see it is:

1) High flow air filters (like K&N or Amsoil) all allow more particulate matter to be ingested, but provide better performance.

2) Low flow air filters limit the particulate matter (but do not eliminate it) ingested by the engine, but also lessen performance.

Such being the case, I'll stick with the K&N air filters. I have them in my Concours (soon to be sold), my gasoline powered radio control helicoptor, and on order for my R1100RT.
 

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Fore!

I thoroughly tested a K&N air filter once, and the results were nothing short of amazing! I highly recommend anyone and everyone test their brand of filter against my stringent testing procedure.

My testing procedure:
  1. Hold K&N air filter with your left hand, parallel to the ground.
  2. With your right hand, hold a golf ball 2 feet above the filter.
  3. Now release the aforementioned golf ball, allowing it to "try" to pass through said filter. Good luck.
  4. Repeat steps 1-3 at least 9 more times.
I could not get that golf ball to pass through that filter ONE - SINGLE - TIME. The proof is in the pudding folks. Now that's performance! I've been using K&N filters ever since. :histerica
 

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Air filter question

I am thinking of trying to improve the air flow in my bike for more power. Has anyone installed velocity stacks on the LT? I could jettison all that air intake and airbox stuff to save weight in the process.
I'd have to cut some holes in the panels, but I think it'd look kinda neat to have a cutaway in the plastic with velocity stacks in there.
Has anyone done this? Anyone have a source for velocity stacks that will fit the LT? Maybe if a bunch of us are interested we could work up a group buy.
Awaiting your considered responses.....
















Edited to confess that this is a tongue in cheek post resulting from severe Parked Motorcycle Syndrome akin to my post years ago inquiring as to what are the best snow tires for the LT.
Sorry, I can't help myself sometimes. :)
 

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I wouldn't use a K/N on any motor I like. However, the 2-stage oiled foam approach never failed me on 4 different dirt bikes through the years. Not a trace of downstream crud even after numerous dust-caked weekends. I put a Uni on my FJR and my Toyota 4X4. They make a real nice re-usable filter and the oil used is mighty sticky. I can't imagine anything making it through. They don't make one for the LT yet, but word has it they will be expanding the BMW offerings this year.

http://www.unifilter.com/online catalog/catalogstreetmainpage.html
 

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My friend (Beemer mechanic with 40 years) showed me several K&N Filters that he had removed from customer bikes. The problem, in his opinion, is distortion and shrinkage over time resulting in poor to no seal at the perimeter sealing area. At that stage, you have plenty of air flow-most of it unfiltered.

I seriously doubt that the stock filter restricts the airflow enough to cause a noticeable drop in performance. On several Bimmers that I've owned, the original airbox was swapped out for better flow (european design) but the stock filter was retained in every case.

Go with what works for you. Enjoy the ride.

Bruce :)
 

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beartooth said:
I seriously doubt that the stock filter restricts the airflow enough to cause a noticeable drop in performance. On several Bimmers that I've owned, the original airbox was swapped out for better flow (european design) but the stock filter was retained in every case.

Go with what works for you. Enjoy the ride.

Bruce :)
I can tell a difference between a K&N and stock filter. I changed it on my atv and it gave tremendously more air flow. You have to rejet it when you put the filter in. I will use K&N untill it sandblasts the motor then I will bore it out, problem solved! :)

I'm sure this data can be backed up on a dyno.

I would never put a K&N on anything I really wanted to last a long time.
 

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My understanding is that clean stock air filters work great and provide all the air needed for stock vehicles. It is when you do engine and exhaust modifications, that is when higher air flow filters may be needed.
 

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My LT came with an air filter (I think) and it seems to still be working five years later. The trick is don't ride in smutzy air.
 
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