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Discussion Starter #1
hello all, I finished putting in new speigler lines ,which went on and fit like a dream however the battery has since gone bad ( check battery light on charger) so I bought one on line making sure I got the connections right as far as who goes where marked with a sharpie connected pos elements first and when I touched negative she started which I was not expecting since the key was not on or starter hit, after I cleaned my shorts ( kidding ) no matter what sequence I tried she wants to start, lights dont' work andwhen I try other position she tries to start while running , the question is WHAT THE HELL DID I DO WRONG????? any help with this would be appreciated p.s. when I checked my Clymer book it said new batterys need initial service by dealership ??????:frown::frown::frown:
 

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Read thru the thread below that was started by Beamer007. I'm assuming you have an early MY LT.
 

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hello all, I finished putting in new speigler lines ,which went on and fit like a dream however the battery has since gone bad ( check battery light on charger) so I bought one on line making sure I got the connections right as far as who goes where marked with a sharpie connected pos elements first and when I touched negative she started which I was not expecting since the key was not on or starter hit, after I cleaned my shorts ( kidding ) no matter what sequence I tried she wants to start, lights dont' work andwhen I try other position she tries to start while running , the question is WHAT THE HELL DID I DO WRONG????? any help with this would be appreciated p.s. when I checked my Clymer book it said new batterys need initial service by dealership ??????:frown::frown::frown:
Good job on the Spieglers. Depending on what year yours is, either the starter relay went bad or because you tried to start it with a bad battery, it has become fused together. It is a known issue and there is a refit kit that installs a small wiring harness and a new style relay with a low voltage cut out circuit.

The issue is, without that cut out circuit, the current drawn when the battery is low is so high that it fuses the relay in a closed position.

The relay is under the tank in the electrics box. If it is blue, it is the new style and that is all you should need. If it isn't blue, then you need the refit kit as I don't believe they sell the old relay any longer.

.In any case, sounds like it needs to be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thank you very much for the good and bad news, the good being we now know what the problem is (makes perfect sense to me) the bad being I have her all put back together I thought about not ,but was tired of seeing her all about the place!! cheers my good man and thank you for your kindness re: my dilemma, sincerely, scott :smile::smile::wave:wave
 

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Try hitting the starter button when it starts running by itself. Sometimes (usually) it will break the contacts free. Then install the Ford relay and never worry about it again.

Robert
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ok im in the belly of the beast I am going to do my best to describe what I am seeing as I have no idea what I'm looking at ( well kinda at best) at the top of the box full of wires there are a bank of little boxes two rows of three the top left is blue green in color is that the starter relay ???? thanking you in advance ,scott
 

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ok im in the belly of the beast I am going to do my best to describe what I am seeing as I have no idea what I'm looking at ( well kinda at best) at the top of the box full of wires there are a bank of little boxes two rows of three the top left is blue green in color is that the starter relay ???? thanking you in advance ,scott
Scott,
Based on above message, I guess I have to assume you do NOT have a BMW or CLYMER shop-manual... otherwise you would find a lot of what you need, including photos, in chapter 9 (CLYMER) or section 61-General electrical equipment (BMW shop manual).

BEFORE you start with these checks / tests, make sure the battery main wires are disconnected (Black / ground will be enough).
Under fuel-tank, the electrical-relays junction-box is in 2 sections: UPPER section is all relays and lower section is mainly a lot of connectors from various components.

See 3 attached photos to follow me:
1) If you have the "old-type" BLACK starter relay that is present mainly on 1998-2000 models, then this will make testing easier as you can disconnect one of the LARGE wires and test for continutiy (OHMs selection of a multimeter) across both large poles. If continuity is present, then the relay can be assumed to be fused / stuck. You can open and clean/sand contacts, but you are on borrowed time - in most cases, this could happen again.

2) If you have the "NEW-type" BLUE starter relay that is present mainly on 2001-2009 models, then the harness/wiring is a bit more complex, but you can pull the relay from it socket for testing. These have an internal "smart-circuit sensing for low voltage" to avoid starting with low battery. Hence, it is NOT probable this newer type would be welded / stuck.

The old-type BLACK relay is NOT available anymore from BMW parts catalog, so to replace or fix an old-type BLACK relay, you have 4 options:
A) Buy the expensive BMW retrofit Kit to install the newer type BLUE relay (you need to be comfortable with wiring to do so). See item 1 in link below from MAX-BMW parts catalog:
MAX BMW Motorcycles - BMW Parts & Technical Diagrams - K1200LT 99-04 (89V3)

B) find a used old-type BLACK relay on EBAY hoping it will be better than yours (a long shot with unknown electrical part)

C) substitute a universal car starter relay available at any auto parts. These 2 round large poles arrangement are common design. For the 2 smaller wires (activating the relay coil) you may to do some wiring connector job as the type of connectors will vary in automotive world.

D) Clean the old relay contacts, but add an additional car starter-relay under the seat to minimize load / wear on your old relay. There are a few threads here on forum on HOW-TO do this:
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1200lt/9661-starter-relay.html

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1200lt/73072-help-my-starter-stuck.html

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1200lt/98265-ford-start-relay.html
 

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Discussion Starter #8
hi there, I did locate the guilty part and have ordered a new old style bosch from beemer boneyard for 66 plus shipping I heard somewhere that someone bought the place of manufacturing and are making these older ones as well as other components for which I am grateful as the parts from dealers were a lot more , thank you for taking the time to reply, hope to have her back in one piece soon to quote a moa member long may your brick fly!!!:smile::smile::wave:wave
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ok new relay in and checked to see if it would try to start when I connected the terminals, it did not ,dash appeared normal however when I tried the starter it would not go on ,is this due to the state of undress for her or should she at least try to turn over at this point ,don't want to put it all back together only to find another or continuing problem, bad relay (new) ??? hope some one will know about this thanks,scott
 

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ok new relay in and checked to see if it would try to start when I connected the terminals, it did not ,dash appeared normal however when I tried the starter it would not go on ,is this due to the state of undress for her or should she at least try to turn over at this point ,don't want to put it all back together only to find another or continuing problem, bad relay (new) ??? hope some one will know about this thanks,scott
I am assuming you have the interlocks set for starting like not in gear with the side stand down, kill switch in the run position.

It looks like there is a 4A fuse for the starter button circuit depending on what year.

If there are only 3 terminals on it like the photo on BBY ( I only see 3) then the engagement circuit would have to complete through one of the main terminals. If you had the main terminals reversed, it wouldn't work.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thank you I put it together one at a time so as not to confuse the issue, neutral light on ,side stand up will check fuses , will keep you posted, thank you ,scott
 

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ok heres one for the books took the old one apart and installed it guess what happened , yup your right she worked exactly as it should I am freakin out with delight that is why o why o whynow do I use the old one or wait for beemer boneyard to sell me the right freakin part, lets have a vote and be democratic ( I'm a republican by the way) thank you one and all , ps I WANT TO RIDE THIS BAD GIRL AS THE ROADS ARE CLEAR AND THE SUN IS SHINING SCOTT AKA SLATEFISH THE TROUT FARMER
 

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ok heres one for the books took the old one apart and installed it guess what happened , yup your right she worked exactly as it should I am freakin out with delight that is why o why o whynow do I use the old one or wait for beemer boneyard to sell me the right freakin part, lets have a vote and be democratic ( I'm a republican by the way) thank you one and all , ps I WANT TO RIDE THIS BAD GIRL AS THE ROADS ARE CLEAR AND THE SUN IS SHINING SCOTT AKA SLATEFISH THE TROUT FARMER

These relays often have the internal diagram with numbers on the side. Check to see if by chance the two main ones are reversed on these new relays. You should also be able to place 12V across the trigger and one of the main posts and hear it click. If I am reading the schematic correctly, the relay connects the ground side so there would be 12V on one of the two leads connecting to it. The diagrams are confusing to me though. You can then measure with an ohm meter to see if it is actually making contact or if it even clicks/engages at all.

I would be hard pressed to leave a relay that has already stuck once in the bike with as much effort as it takes to tear it down again. Consider pitting in the Ford fender mount relay up under the seat somewhere and run that off the internal relay so no load is passed through the original relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
THE FIRST THING I DID WAS REVERSE THE POLARITY TO RELAY IT IS SIMPLY THE WRONG PART THEY SENT A RELAY FOR A 83-95 K WHICH IS NOT A K1200 LT IM NOT ENOUGH OF AN ELECTRICIAN TO WIRE IN THE NEW TYPE OF RELAYLOOKS LIKE IM NOT RIDING THIS WEEKEND THANKS AGAIN,SCOTT
 

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THE FIRST THING I DID WAS REVERSE THE POLARITY TO RELAY IT IS SIMPLY THE WRONG PART THEY SENT A RELAY FOR A 83-95 K WHICH IS NOT A K1200 LT IM NOT ENOUGH OF AN ELECTRICIAN TO WIRE IN THE NEW TYPE OF RELAYLOOKS LIKE IM NOT RIDING THIS WEEKEND THANKS AGAIN,SCOTT
Scott, you can button her up and ride this weekend if you want to. You know how much labor is involved now so just make the decision to either wait or do it again some time after you get the correct relay but carry it with you once you get it until you find the time again.

Take a pic of the old and new so when you get the next one, you can see if they sent you the correct part that time. I am guessing they look different or it should have at least clicked.

Good luck which ever path you choose. At least you know when you get the right part, it should work for some time after that :)
 
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