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Discussion Starter #1
Let me preface this as I have only had this bike about 3 weeks and am in the middle of a pcs move to Virginia. So I didn't have time to takle taking a lot of parts off to change the fluid. I bought the bike from a used dealer but I think he only changed the engine oil. So I changed the final drive fluid and used an air compressor pump I purchased off ebay to suck the fluid out of the tranny. It is meant for brake bleeding but will suck fluid out of anywhere. Just hook it up to the compressor and point the hose. So after a while it looked like it had all the fluid out. I measured what came out to be about .7 of a quart, maybe more. So according to what I've read I got it all. Now next time all take the bike apart and do it the old fashioned way but in a pinch, this worked great. By the way I used Amsoil fluid and the shifts seem much better.
 

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2011 R1200RT
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PrimePower said:
Let me preface this as I have only had this bike about 3 weeks and am in the middle of a pcs move to Virginia. So I didn't have time to takle taking a lot of parts off to change the fluid. I bought the bike from a used dealer but I think he only changed the engine oil. So I changed the final drive fluid and used an air compressor pump I purchased off ebay to suck the fluid out of the tranny. It is meant for brake bleeding but will suck fluid out of anywhere. Just hook it up to the compressor and point the hose. So after a while it looked like it had all the fluid out. I measured what came out to be about .7 of a quart, maybe more. So according to what I've read I got it all. Now next time all take the bike apart and do it the old fashioned way but in a pinch, this worked great. By the way I used Amsoil fluid and the shifts seem much better.
The .7 qt you mentioned sounds about right for the final drive. The tranny itself holds a lot more and it is also quite a bit more work to replace the fluid.
 

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zippy_gg said:
The .7 qt you mentioned sounds about right for the final drive. The tranny itself holds a lot more and it is also quite a bit more work to replace the fluid.
Rear wheel drive fluid quantity for a fluid change is .24 qts. Tranny fluid quantity is .63 qts. If you got .7 qts out, you were right on, cuz the previous fluid 'adder' prolly just used 3/4 of a qt for ease of measuring.

Good tip on the suction pump. You have any info on make/brand/specs for that pump?
 

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I have an '03 LT and the gearbox holds between 600 and 750 CC
That is 20.3 - 25.4 ounces per manual, I put in near the high end and it
dripped all over the floor ( let it drain for several minutes ).
The final drive holds 230 CC or about 7.8 ounces (to top of filler neck).

I have changed the gearbox and final drive several times and in my
experience one quart will take care of both.

The only downside to what you did is not cleaning the magnet on the drain plug.
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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That's a great idea. The next time I do a trans. fl. change I think I will do that. I am sick and tired of getting fl. all over the center stand and floor. I agree, the downside is as stated. An oil analysis should determine if there are other problems with the transmission, so unless I have cause for concern about the operation of the transmission, I would rely on the analysis to determine if further action is required.

I have a hand pump similar to the one referred to by bigH501 that I used for brake bleeding on cars in my auto repair life. I found it hard on the hand to operate and would expect it to be even more so to pump the approx. .75 litre/qt. from the transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The bad part is you don't get the shavings off the magnet nor see what is all there. The good part is the magnet still works and the shavings are not doing any damage. It is similar to the miti vac, just a cheaper version I found on a subaru forum. This definitely saved time. I will say though that because of the high viscosity of the fluid and the fact that my pump was made for brake fluid and my compressor is not the largest one it took some time. However I just placed the hose in there and went inside to talk to the misses. Just checked on it every once in a while. When I saw air bubbles I stayed out there and relocated the hose as needed till all was gone. I have taken some real good info off of this site, just trying to pitch back in. :wave
 

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PrimePower said:
The bad part is you don't get the shavings off the magnet nor see what is all there. The good part is the magnet still works and the shavings are not doing any damage. It is similar to the miti vac, just a cheaper version I found on a subaru forum. This definitely saved time. I will say though that because of the high viscosity of the fluid and the fact that my pump was made for brake fluid and my compressor is not the largest one it took some time. However I just placed the hose in there and went inside to talk to the misses. Just checked on it every once in a while. When I saw air bubbles I stayed out there and relocated the hose as needed till all was gone. I have taken some real good info off of this site, just trying to pitch back in. :wave

Hey Gunner,
(forgive me if this old Navy guy calls you wrong.... some of my best pals were USMC Warrants and I knew 'em as Gunner, with respect)

Good suggestion you make re pumping out tranny fluid. As you note, it isn't the best approach for a confident full drain and it doesn't give you a view of metal on the drain magnet, but it sure is easier and a good alternative if fluid change is due and you don't want to deal with the access to the drain plug. Same technique used to oil change some maritime engines where getting at the drain plug in the bilge is a bitch.
Good suggestion of an alternative approach. :thumb:
 

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Dick said:
Rear wheel drive fluid quantity for a fluid change is .24 qts. Tranny fluid quantity is .63 qts. If you got .7 qts out, you were right on, cuz the previous fluid 'adder' prolly just used 3/4 of a qt for ease of measuring.

Good tip on the suction pump. You have any info on make/brand/specs for that pump?
Right you are, Dick! I got my fluids backward. The dealership always tries to sell me 2 quarts for my tranny/FD flush because according to the manual I will need just over a quart for both. Silly me, I never listen to them...! :rolleyes: :D
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Silverhair said:
Primepower; are you PCSing to the DC area?
Close, Fort Eustis so I will live in Williamsburg. I was stationed at Belvoir in 03.

In the Army we call them Chief if W2 or higher. I am not so it is Mr Wade. But most call me Chief, or Jason, or hey you :) I really don't care. Not about the rank.
 

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Sounds easier, but I think I would rather drain it out as I think that would remove any metal chips that are down there as they would come out with the moving fluid. Plus you can inspect the drain plug to see what kind of metal it has stuck to it and clean it also. It's a good way to keep track of any problems that may be popping up.
 

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tonyn1 said:
Sounds easier, but I think I would rather drain it out as I think that would remove any metal chips that are down there as they would come out with the moving fluid. Plus you can inspect the drain plug to see what kind of metal it has stuck to it and clean it also. It's a good way to keep track of any problems that may be popping up.
I totally agree. Drain the warm fluid out allowing all particles to flush out, inspect and clean the plug. Not my favorite thing to do although I feel it's the right way. With over 100k I'm always wondering how many more miles the trans will go. I'm hoping for another 100k
 

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I just finished the 12K service today and saved changing the gearbox lube for last as I was dreading the task after what I've read here. i.e. "If you think that was hard then wait til you change the fluid in the tranny!" I was surprised how easy it was. Removed the 3 allen bolts on the right side cover, took out 3 tupperware screws, took out the 2 bolts holding the back of the skid plate, removed the bracket for the exhaust support and there was the 14 mm plug ready to come out. Only took about 20 mins to change the fluid. MUCH easier than anticipated!

The final drive was a slight PITA because you can't see in the overflow hole without a mirror and a light source.

Loren
 

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I just finished the 12K service today and saed changing the gearbox lube for last as I was dreading the task after what I've read here. i.e. "If you think that was hard then wait til you change the fluid in the tranny!" I was surprised how easy it was. Removed the 3 allen bolts on the right side cover, took out 3 tupperware screws, took out the 2 bolts holding the back of the skid plate, removed the bracket for the exhaust support and there was the 14 mm plug ready to come out. Only took about 20 mins to change the fluid. MUCH easier than anticipated!

The final drive was a slight PITA because you can't see in the overflow hole without a mirror and a light source.

Loren
 

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wa1200lt said:
The final drive was a slight PITA because you can't see in the overflow hole without a mirror and a light source.

Loren
Next time use a baby bottle. Most are marked in ml and the nipple fits the fill hole, just snip the tip to get better oil flow. Fill it with 240 ml of your favorite lube and squeeze away.
 

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wa1200lt said:
I just finished the 12K service today and saed changing the gearbox lube for last as I was dreading the task after what I've read here. i.e. "If you think that was hard then wait til you change the fluid in the tranny!" I was surprised how easy it was. Removed the 3 allen bolts on the right side cover, took out 3 tupperware screws, took out the 2 bolts holding the back of the skid plate, removed the bracket for the exhaust support and there was the 14 mm plug ready to come out. Only took about 20 mins to change the fluid. MUCH easier than anticipated!

The final drive was a slight PITA because you can't see in the overflow hole without a mirror and a light source.

Loren
The trick is to do it without getting tranny fluid over everything! Even if one makes the thing to catch the fluid that is shown in the manual, it gets messy when you first remove the plug.
 

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tonyn1 said:
The trick is to do it without getting tranny fluid over everything! Even if one makes the thing to catch the fluid that is shown in the manual, it gets messy when you first remove the plug.
If you make a diverter using a retangular oil bottle cut at an angle leaving the spout and cap attached, it will fit under the drain hole and route the fluid to your catch pan. Be sure to remove the cap. :rolleyes:

I didn't come up with this idea. Seems like Mr. Shealey might have. There are pictures of the cut bottle, placement, etc. in the HoW, archives, or somewhere. That's where I found it. Works very well.
 

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I have tried cut out bottles but have the greatest success with the factory designed diverter. Just remove the filler plug first and the fluid flows out nicely. Leave the filler plug in and it will gurgle and splash everywhere.
 
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