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As my dealer quoted a price of $235 to install my Jpeg XL footpegs I decided to give it a try myself. Inside of an hour, I had both tipover bar installed and started work on the cutting (with a Dremel as it was easier than a drill) the outer cover. I have the left side almost complete when I ran out of daylight and decided not to persue working with a light in the dark.

The old tipover bars were a bit of a chore until I applied a bit of fine oil I use to lubricate my RC helicoptor bearings. Then just a couple of wacks with a rubber mallet and I had enough room to put a screwdriver in the edge and work it out. They had just a bit of rust on the ends of the pegs, but came out within 5 ~ 10 minutes (each).

It is taking longer to mark and grind the holes for the Jpeg bolts than anything else. Even with that care and the template, my first hole appears to be larger than needed. Seemed a bit off on the template maybe or just the way it lined up. I will not know if I am satisfied witht he holes until the install is finished, but if I feel the need will just buy some new covers and try again and make my own templates.

So is this a typical Jpeg install? Or am I just lucky?

Or is getting that ball bearing installed just right to lock the pegs going to be my real challenge?
 

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I would say you had a typical J-Peg installation. It is not tough and as you said, most challenging is to dremel out the correct size holes in the plastic covers.

A bit more challenging is to make a proper stopper for the J-Peg tip to prevent it from punching your lower fairing in case your bike decides to take a rest...
Here is one solution that has worked in my case. http://picasaweb.google.com/pozoizquierdo/JPEGSTOPPER

Regards
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the heads up. I'm checking with the manufacturer to see what he has to say about any add-ons or fixes to prevent punching a hole in the plastic in case of a tip over.
 

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I made a pigs ear of it. Partly down to strong pain killers and partly due to a really rusted up set of drop bars.
The bits you are cutting are not too visible as they are on the underside. I got one perfect - then installed - what a waste of time making that look neat! So the other side took 30 seconds and isn't as smart.
The main mess up I did was pinch the ballbearings with the foot part and bashed them into the holes too far.
If that happens - here is the solution;
The ball will be stuck and no leverage to get it out - use boiling water - it will fly out like a rocket - so don't loose it!
The hole will need a small dremmel if it is now rough.
The end result when fitted is great

What I am not sure about is using the thread lock as having to heat the bars every time to get the fairing off seems ott
 

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c00k1e said:
What I am not sure about is using the thread lock as having to heat the bars every time to get the fairing off seems ott
Definitely an overkill IMHO. At least I remove my J-Pges way too often to mess around with any thread lock. My bolts have never come loose.

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Discussion Starter #6
Well I used the thread lock. It's only the blue type so does not need to be heated to removed. I only put a small amount on the top two threads.

And I'm finished too! :dance:
 

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c00k1e said:
I.
The main mess up I did was pinch the ballbearings with the foot part and bashed them into the holes too far.

The hole will need a small dremmel if it is now rough.
The end result when fitted is great

What I am not sure about is using the thread lock as having to heat the bars every time to get

I am reviving an old thread because I may have just ruined my new springs I just bought from Raffy (Thanks Raffy!)

From the installation instructions and the posts from the past I have concluded that the 5/16" springs should fit deeper than mine do. I am thinking that maybe somewhere over the years the springs may have changed diameters because the holes drilled in my used JPEG tipover replacements I can only get one "ring" of the spring in the hole.

For those of you that have properly working springs/detent balls: How much of the spring should be exposed when they arrive with the tape holding them in to the mounting plates (tip over bars)?

Thanks all.
Glenn
 

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GlennM86 said:
[snip]... I can only get one "ring" of the spring in the hole. For those of you that have properly working springs/detent balls: How much of the spring should be exposed when they arrive with the tape holding them in to the mounting plates (tip over bars)?
When I do periodic maintenance on my jpegs, I seem to recall that the spring is just about flush with the top of the hole that it fits completely into. I use a liberal amount of teflon grease (for a bicycle chain used in wet conditions) to hold the spring and detent ball in place while I install the jpeg footrest.
 

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jhsonderb said:
When I do periodic maintenance on my jpegs, I seem to recall that the spring is just about flush with the top of the hole that it fits completely into. I use a liberal amount of teflon grease (for a bicycle chain used in wet conditions) to hold the spring and detent ball in place while I install the jpeg footrest.

Thank you Jim.

Then it looks like my holes are not deep enough.

But just to clarify, the holes are on the bottom of the aluminum replacement tip over piece correct?

Mine have no depth at all.
 

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I found out why my springs would not fit in the holes on the tip over bar replacement...There were already springs compressed deep, deep into the holes. I found this when I went out to start drilling a 5/16" hole for the new springs.
 

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GlennM86 said:
Thank you Jim.

Then it looks like my holes are not deep enough.

But just to clarify, the holes are on the bottom of the aluminum replacement tip over piece correct?

Mine have no depth at all.
The answer to your question is yes... but I see that you have resolved the issue. Great!
 

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jhsonderb said:
The answer to your question is yes... but I see that you have resolved the issue. Great!

I solved the spring question but now question the entire design. What a PITA! Not the "working upside down" part, not the "use the viscosity of the grease to hold the ball bearing" either.

I used a dremel and formed a small channel between the two holes on the foot rest part of the JPEG. The ball has more freedom to move now without taking the spring along.

I also chamfered the edge of the foot rest where the stopper bolt rubs. I did this because I managed to bend two bolts that hold the foot rest on because the stopper bolt was binding into the soft aluminum of the foot rest.

The JPEGs move more smoothly now. There are no sharp edges to keep the ball from moving.

Who is the original manufacturer of the JPEGS? I would love to contact them to ask if I am completely off base in understanding what their ideal setup is...all things are possible. My bet is that I have no idea what is supposed to happen so I just made it do what I wanted it to do.
 
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