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Thanks Kirk.

I agree it is a great enhancement for smoothing out the overall responsiveness. I really like how the bogging is gone at the very low end. No more having to micro-manage the throttle from a dead start. I did the Stage 5 chip on my 2006 LT.

Paul
 

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Nice video, Kirk. One of those chips will be on my "to do" list for next year.
 

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I'm glad to see he has a chip that works on a 2000 LT. I bought a stage 5 chip from John 18 months ago & the bike wouldn't start. The fans came on as soon as the key was turned on. He told me at the time I needed a newer style ECM.
 

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I have and posted this in another thread.
Re: John's Performance chip anyone?
Well, after last falls project became this springs project and now that summer is here, I can report that I like it! Much smoother more power across the board,,, and if I can believe the on-board computer, better MPG! I have a K&N and a Remus. I think he sold me a stage 3 chip. I just told him what I had and he sold me what I needed.
The only thing I've noticed, and I don't know if it has any thing to do with the chip, is the engine doesn't rev up when I use reverse. Reverse still works. Just on increase in RPMs.
I will report when I get some real world MPG #s
 

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I just received my stage 6 chip today for the 2001. I won't be able to test it until I get the bike back together but I will let you know what happens. :grin:
 

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Okay, so the chip was harder to put in than expected. The prongs on the chip were spread out further than the holes on the board. Has anyone else had trouble with these and, after it was installed, did anyone else experience any difficulties?

Just checking...thanks!
 

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Okay, so the chip was harder to put in than expected. The prongs on the chip were spread out further than the holes on the board. Has anyone else had trouble with these and, after it was installed, did anyone else experience any difficulties?

Just checking...thanks!
That is why they make DIP insertion tools.

:smile:

However, generally you can press each row of pins against a flat conductive surface and gently bend them in a little. It is good to let there be some pressure outward in the socket so don't bend the leads in too far.
 
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The pins on new chips are flared and are installed easiest with a chip installation tool. The tool forces the pins together to the correct width and you align the pins with the socket and seat the chip pins all at the same time using the tool. Works really slick if you have the tool and I haven't seen one for many years. Without the tool the best way is start one row of pins and flex that row until the other row starts into the opposing holes then carefully push the chip into place while not getting one side ahead of the other. If you fold over a pin your chances of getting it straight again aren't very good. The tool may still be available from Allied Electronics or some other electronics supply.
 

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I got the pins inserted but I am just concerned about putting the tank back on and then finding out the chip is a bust. I will be saying a small prayer before firing it back up.
 

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I got the pins inserted but I am just concerned about putting the tank back on and then finding out the chip is a bust. I will be saying a small prayer before firing it back up.
If you got each pin into the socket and didn't touch the pins with your fingers, you should be fine.

Looking forward to your riding impressions.
 
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What do you mean dont touch the pins? Looks like Kirk does in the video

Steve
I am quite sure Kirk is not an EE or electronics tech. He demonstrated a very bad practice. If you are in low humidity conditions and have any static on you from walking across carpet, sliding out of a cloth car seat, removing a jacket, etc., you can easily kill an IC by discharging into its leads.
 

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The only thing I've noticed is when I use reverse, the engine does not rev up. also sometimes the idle speed is a little low.
By the way what controls idle speed?
 

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The only thing I've noticed is when I use reverse, the engine does not rev up. also sometimes the idle speed is a little low.
By the way what controls idle speed?
I'm certainly not the expert, but I'm assuming that the idle speed is controlled by the Motronic ECU (normally & reverse high idle). Your LT is a 2001? Were you able to use the new chip in the existing ECU, or did you have to use a different one?
 

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Yes, my bike is a 2001. It has been a long time since I ordered mine, but I think I had to provide him with the ECU number, along with any modification I had done on the bike.
I had the bike down all winter, and I'm wondering if it's something I did, or the chip is doing.
 

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Need to open mine up and see if I already have a chip, mine has none of the hot weather issues, or the torque flatness people talk about.
 
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What do you mean dont touch the pins? Looks like Kirk does in the video

Steve
Here is why: http://m.electronicdesign.com/power/understanding-esd-and-eos-failures-semiconductor-devices

The worst part is the chip may not be killed, but simply weakened such that it fails early during its life or starts behaving erratically which is a real pain to troubleshoot later.

When changing chips I use a static mat and wrist strap if possible. Otherwise, I at least touch a grounded surface with both hands to discharge static. I then try to place one hand on a grounded part of the circuit board and insert the chip with the other hand taking care to touch only the plastic chip package and not the metal leads.
 

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YES!!
You can actually Blow stuff Up with electrostatic discharge!
 
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