[LTFan]

On my return trip from work, the bike was working perfectly fine till home. I had to take a u turn 1 mile away from home and since then the rear breaks are engaged and the wheel is not rotating as smoothly. Using the gears I am able to move the bike so I managed to reach home but I cannot move the rear wheel by hand when the bike is on center stand.

Is there a way to disengage the breaks?

 

[fpmlt]

Try loosening the brake bleeder. See if it's a problem with fluid pressure that won't release. That would point to a bad master cylinder. Other wise, it may just be extremely dirty pistons in the caliper.

 

[deanwoolsey]

Or your FD (or something else in the drive-train) is shot. Take the take caliper off the disc. If the wheel is still stiff, TRAILER it to the dealership or mechanic of your choice.

 

[LTFan]

Removed the break callipers and found that the wheel is still jammed. Here is a video that might help.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=60ykfqqOc9U

Unfortunately it appears to be the final drive. I have an existing thread for it at
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70476

Amish.

 

[sheldan2]

Take off the drive, rebuild it if you know how , or ship it to one of the members who can and life is good again. A small but annoying hiccup in the world of riding BMW,s.

 

[CharlieVT]

I suggest you drain the final drive lube.
Take a look at the drain plug magnet. Without disturbing the metal on the drain plug take a picture (macro, no flash) of what ever is on the drain plug and post it here so we can see it.

Also, if there are shiney metal flakes in the lube, wipe them on a white paper towel and take a pic of them.

From your description it does sound like a "classic" crown wheel bearing failure; there is a characteristic appearance to metal flakes in the lube that will pretty much confirm it.

HTH