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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Drained the rear today and magnetic drain plug was coated in minute metallic pericles. Oil is BLACK - this is only 1200 miles from the rear bearing change.
My thinking now is this;
1. The drive chain is damaged.
2. The last bearing wasn't put in right.
3. None of the above - No one cleaned the drain plug of gunk from the last time the bearing got changed.

What's your guess?
 

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2011 R1200RT
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possibly #3.

Who did the last FD fluid change? Can you find out?
 

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c00k1e said:
Drained the rear today and magnetic drain plug was coated in minute metallic pericles. Oil is BLACK - this is only 1200 miles from the rear bearing change.
My thinking now is this;
1. The drive chain is damaged.
2. The last bearing wasn't put in right.
3. None of the above - No one cleaned the drain plug of gunk from the last time the bearing got changed.

What's your guess?


Well, I'll tell ya this: Any idiot who would change a destroyed Final Drive Bearing and not clean the magnetic drain plug certainly can't be trusted to properly replace the bearing.


When I replaced my drive, I disassembled the old final drive to see what it looked like. Metal everwhere...big pieces, little pieces...metal everywhere. BTW, meticulously cleaning EVERY part of the final drive IS an integral part of doing the job right.

I would clean the plug very well, put in fresh oil and check it within 25-30 miles. See if there is any more metal on it -- maybe even have the oil analyzed. Sorry you're having to deal with this.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
zippy_gg said:
possibly #3.

Who did the last FD fluid change? Can you find out?
I know who did it - a guy in Switzerland 5 weeks ago when he put a new rear bearing in. But no way of contacting him - he speaks Italian!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Update

Removed rear brakes to get a good listen to wheel spin.
Good news - no abnormal sound
Bad news - 1/2 to 1cm play when trying to twist wheel.
Should there be any twist at all?

Going to take it for a 30 mile spin and change oil again (if it ever stops raining - dont like breaking down in the rain!)
 

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c00k1e said:
Removed rear brakes to get a good listen to wheel spin.
Good news - no abnormal sound
Bad news - 1/2 to 1cm play when trying to twist wheel.
Should there be any twist at all?

Going to take it for a 30 mile spin and change oil again (if it ever stops raining - dont like breaking down in the rain!)
A 1/2 to 1 cm is a huge amount of play.

I was thinking yesterday when washing the bike that some scoff at the idea of a good scrubbing, but it sure is a good time to give the road gear a good looksy and shaking.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
2nd opinions doubts there is much movement, if any

drained again after 20 miles - very few particles and oil black again


Will ride it for the week and check again
 

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If it is black already I think you are in trouble. I just replaced the lube in my rear drive after 3,000 miles and it looked as good as when i put it in.

I think if I were you that I would order a new one from BMW. In the states you can get one from Chicago BMW for about $800.

Your luck has been terrible trying to rebuild the one you have. I think I would give up on it. Maybe there is something wrong with the housing or another component that is causing the bearing failure and you'll never be able to rebuild it correctly?????


Good Luck,
Kevin
 

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bowlesj said:
A 1/2 to 1 cm is a huge amount of play.

I was thinking yesterday when washing the bike that some scoff at the idea of a good scrubbing, but it sure is a good time to give the road gear a good looksy and shaking.
Amen to that, I asked the question a week ago and got no response. I got mine back from the dealer after a leaking seal, they replaced the bearings and seals. When I got the bike back, it had the same amount of play as when I dropped it off. I took it back yesterday to have the service manager look at it, he agreed it still had play and wants me to bring it back this week. I told him what I have read on this site, that they are hard to shim correctly and the best solution was to replace the whole rear drive with a new one. He agreed, he also commented that the area the bearing mates to sometimes gets slightly egg shaped. I presumed that there was a corresponding race, but am ignorant as I've never been into one.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
alanforn I wish UK service managers were the same. The ones I have talked to seem to be quoting from the same book "rear end failiers are as rare as rrocking hourse carp". They totally refuse to see how it could be anything more than pure bad luck - not installation problems.
I am still within warentee on the part, but I bet they will only change the part and maybe not till it collapses again - I don't want to be out on the road when that happens!!
If anyone can put a technical argument together to help my case I would be extreamly greatful - they know I can't prove anything at this stage.
Thanks all for your comments.
 

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Just a Thought

If the FD oil is draining black after only 30 miles, that doesn't sound good to me. Try draining and refilling with a flushing grade of oil, then with the bike SECURELY on the center stand run it and work your way up to 3rd or 4th gear just at idle rpms. DO NOT RIDE it with this oil in the FD. Maybe repeat again and then send a couple of correct weight oil fills through. When you get a good clean sample of oil drain then try a short ride to check out the colour. Seems a lot of changes but it's only a small amount each time. At least then you will know if it's residue from the failure or the same happening again. ONCE AGAIN, RUNNING A BIKE IN GEAR ON THE CENTER STAND IS NOT RECOMMENDED, BUT WITH DUE CARE SHOULD BE OK. Can you use a lift that will allow you to lock the front wheel in a vise ?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Good idea about the center stand. I will put it on the bike lift and lock the frount wheel as suggested.
What grade oil is good foir flushing?
How long should I leave it in 4th?
Cheers
 
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