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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Folks, another abs query, but I've only just realised how dammned annoying it is.
Flashing lites after about 20 miles, have checked battery, had an engineer check, blled and flush system----its the pump I'm told.

Has anyone actually done a straight master cylinder to caliper conversion? Does it actually work?

any tips appreciated, new unit £1,5000 plus fitting!!! :mad:
 

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I was told the same diagnosis earlier this summer. Thankfully, I heard from the gurus on this board that didn't think the abs pump assembly failure to be the problem. A failed sensor on the rear end was the issue....broken wire in the lead to the abs brain. Maybe you could be so lucky.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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You said engineer checked it - certfied BMW, with the proper computer to test it? If you are getting a 1 hz wig wag of the general warning and ABS lights then you are low on fluid in the rear two chambered reservoir. If you are getting a fatser 4 hz wig wag or a steady ABS light then there is a more serious problem.

One you guys over there across the pond needs to buy a GS-911 unit so you can check this stuff yourselves. There are several in the states, one in Thailand and even the Aussies have one now.

Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
my mechanic is an ex bmw main dealer man, but no diagnostic as yet, have got that booked.
Its the higher rate flash, have checked all the normal stuff such as sensors, bled and flushed system, I have a bad feeling about this.
It appears that pumps come up secondhand in the States, if anyone knows where, purchase and shipping is still cheaper than new!!
Still would like to know if a straight conversion would work?
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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Yes , fast flash is not a good sign. As far as bypassing the unit I don't know anyone that has done it here in the states. Suppose it is possible but would require some adapters to be made to by pass the ABS unit. Then you would have to rig up a connection from the switches to trigger the brake light relay as that is driven by the ABS unit as well. Theoretically you should have enough pressure from the master cylinders to drive the calipers, but you would loose the linked brakes and of course the ABS functionality. Oh and your Speedometer and Odometer would no longer work as well as they work off of the ABS sensor through the ABS unit.
 

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before you go crazy 2 other things to check. Is your rear tail/stop light working in all modes? Also, and this was my problem, there is a micro switch attached to the brake pedal. There is a metal tab that hits the plunger of the micro switch to tell ecu that you foot is off the brake and can complete the self-test. Mine was not hitting switch hard enuf to depress the micro switch and would not complete the self test. Adjusted the travel and alls will.
 

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williagw said:
Once you have concluded it is a fault with the ABS unit, contact ModualMaster.com. They rebuilt one from a 2004 R1150RT for me. Only $350 (plus shipping) with a 5 year warranty. Works great.
Proper spelling is module, not modual, but I checked for their site just to be sure that was not how they spelled their name.

Sooooo..... their web site is ModuleMaster.com.
 

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mickjwest said:
Folks, another abs query, but I've only just realised how dammned annoying it is.
Flashing lites after about 20 miles, have checked battery, had an engineer check, blled and flush system----its the pump I'm told.

Has anyone actually done a straight master cylinder to caliper conversion? Does it actually work?

any tips appreciated, new unit £1,5000 plus fitting!!! :mad:
If the piston bore in the master cylinder and the piston diameter in the calipers is the same as the 99s and 2Ks then you could physically bypass the ABS unit with short adapters

The issue then would be if you could leave the ABS unit in place for the speedometer and remove the lights in the cluster for for the ABS - you would have to remove power from the motors inside the unit


these things are going to eventually depreciate to the point where they will be getting junked because of the power brake unit - ABS and power brakes are nice but relatively new devices
 

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williagw said:
Once you have concluded it is a fault with the ABS unit, contact ModualMaster.com. They rebuilt one from a 2004 R1150RT for me. Only $350 (plus shipping) with a 5 year warranty. Works great.

I went through this "ordeal" a year ago. After much tinkering and bleeding/flushing of my original unit that the dealer said was bad.....I purchased and installed a new ABS Pump Modulator. I asked for and got a 20% discount at my local dealer but it was still just under $2k for the part. I installed it and it has been working fine so far (approx 3000 miles).

My question is....Your pump that was repaired....was it the actual "pump/motor portion or the "brain/ABS" electronics that were repaired. Mine was a failure in the pump...leaking/no pressure....according to the dealer. I only started seeing people mentioning some success getting bad units "fixed" shortly after I bought the new one.

Thanks,
Steve
 

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Yes, it is ModuleMaster.com. They specialize in cars, but have started doing motorcycles because they had the expertise and there was a need. Call them, the I gave you the web site for the contact info. Between the shipping and repair it took 2 weeks.

They rebuilt the pump/servo, the electronics was okay. He said the only part he could not get yet was the pressure transducers, so if they are bad he could not fix it.

After I got it fixed, I told my BMW dealer, and they were very interested also.
 

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Just to give you Guy's more input on trouble shooting of ABS Alarm.
This case has nothing to do with the pump, high frequent blinking.

Got my LT back from service on wednesday.
Is a March 2001, one of the first with ABS and integral system.
Put all the tuperware back on thursday and put a new rear tire on. Then I tested the rear tire. Bike on the center stand first gear and start the engine to see if the tire runs round or if it is wobbling, everything fine. Then I went out for a test run and got a ABS alarm, slow blinking of both ABS lights, changing from right to left an back.
Back to the mechanic, he thought it is a alarm from tire test I made. Rear wheel turning, front wheel not. But he couldnt get the system reseated. He took a look on the brake liquid reservoir this is under the passenger seat on the right side, you have to take of the passenger seat and the lower side cover on the right. There he found a little to low brake fluid in the reservoir. He add some fluid and everything is fine.
Is the second time now that I have this trouble. First when I had worn brake pads and through this, a low fluid stand and now.
Most you find small things like this here they causing a Problem. If there is something wrong with the ABS I would highly recommend check brake fluid first.

Hope this gives some more ideas.

Manfred
 
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