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Hi Folks!

Doing the 48k maintenance and my intake valves are mostly snug at .006. Spec is .006 to .008. I have one at .005. At the 36k, only two intakes were snug, but .006 would go in there.

All my exhaust valves are good.

Seems like I need to get the intake buckets done.

Question is, do I have to do this immediately, or can this wait a bit?

Also, what is being affected by the deficiency of .001? is the valve rising less, or being pounded into its seat?
 

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With a tight valve you run the risk of the valve not fully closing and possibly burning the valve / seat.
 

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You could probably go a little while longer, But why ?

You've got it nearly apart... Just a couple more steps and you're done and then you don't have to worry about it..

Just do it..

John
 

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I just checked mine and they were all quite tight and I'm sure had been for some time.

Whenever the valve clearance is outside the specifications it changes the timing of valve opening and closing. If the valve was so tight that it couldn't close completely then you would burn the valve as hot combustion gases leak past the valve.

I would adjust the valves so that they are all at the loose side of the specifications, .008 or .012 on mine. I moved buckets and was able to reuse half of them. That left me with only 8 to purchase.

It's very easy to do and you'll improve the performance and longevity of your motor.
 

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Set them to the high side while you are in it. The intakes USUALLY wear tight before the exhausts, and typically once adjusted it will be a much longer time before they need adjusting again.

Loose valves are not nearly the problem tight ones are. Best to do it now, and that one at .005" really should be done right away, so while you have to take the cam off anyway, to them all. With luck you may be able to switch some lifters around to correct some of them, and only have to pick up a smaller number.
 

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dshealey said:
The intakes USUALLY wear tight before the exhausts, .
funny,
I have always found the opposite to be true....

on Japanese bikes.... at least.

in any case, I would adjust the "snug" intakes.
 

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johnT said:
funny,
I have always found the opposite to be true....

on Japanese bikes.... at least.

in any case, I would adjust the "snug" intakes.
Engines that have multiple contact points between the valve stem tip and the cam, such as engines with rocker arms, and the additional wear of the rocker arm pivots, then yes, wear of these areas will open up the clearance. On the LT, or any cam over valve engine, the only real wear area is the cam to follower interface. The valve and seat surfaces wear faster, especially on the intakes which are usually softer than the higher temp materials used for exhaust valves and seats, thus tightening up the clearance as the valve seats deeper into the head.

P.S.: If you get valve lash loosening wear on the LT engine, you have more expensive things happening! This is either cam lobes wearing, or cam bearing caps wearing, either of which is far more frightening to the wallet than normal valve seat wear.
 

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Hi guys, so many valve clearance threads going I decide to pick this one. First valve check found the following

Spec .006" to .008" sorry I don't like metric
Intake. Valve A. Valve B.
Cyl 1. .007" .007"
Cyl 2. .007" .007"
Cyl 3. .008" .005"
Cyl 4. .007" .004"

Spec. .010" to .012"
Exhaust.
Cyl 1. .011" .011"
Cyl 2. .012" .012"
Cyl 3. .012" .011"
Cyl 4. .012" .011"

Exhaust / Intake question, to make the (Mid spec valves) by changing one bucket size will take .001" out of spec on the high side will this make a huge amount of difference? Or should I leave until next valve check and only make changes to the two tight intake ones. Thank you
 

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Hi guys, so many valve clearance threads going I decide to pick this one. First valve check found the following

Spec .006" to .008" sorry I don't like metric
Intake. Valve A. Valve B.
Cyl 1. .007" .007"
Cyl 2. .007" .007"
Cyl 3. .008" .005"
Cyl 4. .007" .004"

Spec. .010" to .012"
Exhaust.
Cyl 1. .011" .011"
Cyl 2. .012" .012"
Cyl 3. .012" .011"
Cyl 4. .012" .011"

Exhaust / Intake question, to make the (Mid spec valves) by changing one bucket size will take .001" out of spec on the high side will this make a huge amount of difference? Or should I leave until next valve check and only make changes to the two tight intake ones. Thank you
I would keep them in spec.
 

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2005 K1200LT
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+3 on just the two out of spec. If they were adjustable I would put them all in the middle but not if I had to change buckets.
 

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Well I decide to go the two tight ones only. Bought two 2.800 buckets from the stealership for $32 each Canadian plus tax. Installing this wk end. Waiting for delivery of the Jiffy Tite qk disconnects next wk end. Whilst I still have the tank off would like to see opinions on the the internal fuel line. Need to know what and were to purchase. Heard Tygon hose is good. Don't feel comfortable buying BMW again.
 

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Tygon is only good for low or no pressure. You need immersion grade fuel line.
 

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Well I decide to go the two tight ones only. Bought two 2.800 buckets from the stealership for $32 each Canadian plus tax. Installing this wk end. Waiting for delivery of the Jiffy Tite qk disconnects next wk end. Whilst I still have the tank off would like to see opinions on the the internal fuel line. Need to know what and were to purchase. Heard Tygon hose is good. Don't feel comfortable buying BMW again.

Personally, I would stick with the stock BMW internal replacement line.. due to the hard bent one of them makes.. (if I remember right)

research well if you buy Tygon. There are many types of tygon. I think 4040A is what you want, BUT... I'm not sure if it is ok to submerge in the tank....
a friend of mine just went through this on another bike... used a Tygon hose made for brake master cyl. P-cups and it ended up deteriorating and clogging his fuel filter.
tygon is great if it's used properly.

also, I have not seen Jiffy tites with barb ends... only AN fittings...
where did you get em? jiffy's are great, but again... in the right application....

edit:
nevermind... I found them... They look great.
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/11344/JiffytiteMotorcycleFuelLineDisconnects
 

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Please also be aware that it is possible to install the sprocket onto the ends of the camshaft and accidentally push the alignment pin flush, letting the sprocket end up in the wrong position and cause damage to the engine.
 

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Hi lads,

John you been sleeping along time bros... The Jiffy tite qk d- connects are from a place in Edmonton called Mad maxx racing. He has looked at the ones available in the states see http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/11344/JiffytiteMotorcycleFuelLineDisconnects

He can match them the part numbers JIF-21505 and JIF-22505 plus 4 hose clips. These are the barbed fittings. The curved fittings are not a good idea go with the straight style...

Centaurious thank you for the heads up on the locating pin on the cam shaft I will watch for that. I want to get the bike back together, can anyone tell me if the fuel filter can be removed with the tank in place ? If so I can start rebuilding and do the internal hoses later along with the new brake pedal on order from Illium works, due next wk end also. As they are all on the same side.
 
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