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Discussion Starter #1
I just completed the "WEEP HOLE" procedure with help from folks and information on this forum. (A BIG THANKS) Replaced the shaft seal, the slave cyl. and the pivot needle bearings in the aft section. In the re-assembly I have run into a couple of things that concern me.

My torque wrenches do not go low enough to hit 7nm for the floating bearings. So I used my "BEAM" torque wrench and interpolated on the not too accurate scale. I am not satisfied with the accuracy and will probably purchase a TW for the lower ranges and redo the settings.

In a previous thread I indicated that lock tite was used previously (by a dealer, I think) and I had a problem removing some of the pivot bearing pieces. On installing the final drive I noticed that the threads on the LEFT side hole were tight. I cleaned then as best as I could and they were still tight. I chased the threads out with the hardened steel bearing journal from the front swing arm pivot bearing. This helped some but the free bearing journal that goes in the left side rear pivot is still pretty snug . I can't turn it in and out by hand.

Due to this tightness, it is very difficult to get a light 7nm torque. It is also difficult to tell when it is threaded in all the way. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

I hope I splained this so it is understandable.
 

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Enjoy The Ride
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I just went thru the same thing myself on someones bike a few weeks ago. I used a dental pick with a 90 degree bend to clean ALL of the loctite out of the female & male threads. It took at least an hour or more. If I remember it converts to 62 inch pounds which is very little torque. You MUST to be able to screw the FD pivot pin in & out of the swing arm freely by hand or the preload will be to loose.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
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+1 on what Dave said. It is essential that the threads are clean. There should never be any loctite used here.
 

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I always try and get them totally clean using a dental pick too. Plus (and I know some will disagree), I use a very light coating of VERY light lubricant, usually just wiped on with a rag just enough to lightly lubricate the surface but not seriously affect torque measurements.
 

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I have no idea what size that hole is but I bet your local gun shop has a bore brush that will work really good to clean those threads. Then again, maybe not.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm pretty sure I got the threads clean, however, I am going to pull the final drive and try again. My fear is that the threads are a little distorted, I had such a time getting the piece out in the first place and did not know it had locktite on it. What I really need is a tap. Y'all can rest assured thay aint no locktite on em now.

Another thing came up whilst I had my head in there. I noticed a severely chafed wire which heads back to the caliper. I am not sure how well the picture will show it but I have another repair to do. Glad I found it now instead of having it short out and give me grief.
 

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Yes, the speedometer input. It's a common failure point. I re-routed mine just a little so it wouldn't rub through again. When it fails you get intermittent spedometer readings and the cruise control shuts itself off. Eventually, if left unrepaired, no cruise or speedo at all.
 

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cccpastorjack said:
I always try and get them totally clean using a dental pick too. Plus (and I know some will disagree), I use a very light coating of VERY light lubricant, usually just wiped on with a rag just enough to lightly lubricate the surface but not seriously affect torque measurements.
From my design engineering days (LONG time ago), I believe a 20% reduction in torque on lubricated fasteners (Loctite is a lubricant if used) is indicated. I'll see if I can find my old cheat sheet.

Practically speaking, you'll never notice the 20%. It can become a big deal in critical applications.

Just something to keep in mind.

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Joe,

I believe that the manual does not call for locktite on these fittings. It sure made a mess of mine.

I removed the final drive again and cleaned up the threads again. Also slightly chamferred the outside edge of the hole with a half round bastard to aid in the entry. Chased the threads again and walla, all is back together. Now I am just waiting for my new 1/4" drive 20 to 250 in. lb torque wrench to arrive. It is still cold out so no rush.


On doing the weep hole procedure and slave replacement:

One observation I have is, it is very easy to remove the Remus exhaust which makes removing and reinstalling the swingarm easier. Also with John Z's, input, I installed the drive shaft before installing the swingarm. That worked much easier for me. I could not get the thing lined up and slid on the shaft while truing to insert it through the swing arm.

Another question:

Would an IMPACT gun be better for breaking loose those highly touqued bearing pieces? Seems like it would help to get things moving. I found that with the side extensions that I installed on my lift, some places it was difficult to get the swing on the 3' cheater pipe.

Another observation, 2 people doing the job would make things much easier. I had an offer from Glenn in VA Beach, to help, but timing and parts availability didn't coincide. Thanks any way Glenn, I was impatient to git er done.

Thanks again to all for all the tips and advice and all the great information and the video on this forum. I wouldn't hesitate to jump right in and do another.
 

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Re: Speedo wire.
I had a similar problem with mine last summer and due to the cost and time to get the replacement wire, I ended up cutting and soldering mine. There was enough wire doubled back under the seat to allow this. Used heat shrink tubing on the repair and it has worked flawlessly ever since. Hope this might help.
Ross
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Ross. I didn't get as far as checking for slack wire under the seat, but that is good to know. Fortunately, the wire was not chewed thru. I opened the outer jacket and exposed the 2 wires. Only one was damaged. I use some self amalgamating tape to cover everything and then wrapped the whole thing with vinyl tape. I would have preferred shrink tube, but I feel confident that the cable is protected and water proof.
 
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