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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I was taking the bike (2000LT) out for a ride today, and got to my next door neighbor's house, put it in neutral and on the side stand to talk to my neighbor. When I went to shift back into first, the bolt that holds the shifter to the gear box (or whatever the hell it is) broke in half, rendering the shifter completely useless. Luckily, the bike was in neutral, so with my neighbors' help, I was able to get it back to my house and up the driveway and into my garage.

Now I have to order a new bolt assembly (the piece that has the screw with bolts on either end in swivel ball joints). Also going to have to figure out a way to get the other half of the bolt out of the piece inside the bike. May have to drill it out.

Anyway, big drag. Just wanted to vent.
 

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I'll bet you carry a spare part in your tool bag from now on. ;)
 

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Don't buy the BMW replacement. Do a search for shifter replacement and find the one that is sold by someone on this site. It's much better.
 

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I feel that the shifter linkage breaking is mostly due to the nut coming loose and when that happens you lose the rigidity of the shaft and allows the threaded part of the linkage to break because its flexing.
you can replace it with an aftermarket piece but you should still make sure the nut is securely locked and loctited into place and if you do that I think the BMW part will work as well as the aftermarket....
 

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katnapinn said:
E-Mail Phil John at [email protected] He has a beefed up replacement that it a great upgrade.
+1 on Phil's replacement. I bought one for my 99 after the stock unit broke a block away from home (got lucky on that one) and another for my 03 LT that I replaced preemptively (I still have the original as a spare for anyone with a 99-04 LT.
I bought another linkage from Phil for my 05 but the stock is now beefier and I haven't had the need to replace yet.
BTW the kit sold by Phil includes a drill bit and an extractor bit to remove the broken piece
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the info everyone. I'll definitely be contacting Phil.

In the meantime, I'm glad I haven't gotten rid of my Suzuki V-Strom, cause at least I've still got a bike to ride while I get the LT fixed.

Thanks again!
 

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From the Powergrinder site:

"Powergrid is proud to announce a durable solution to the common problem of shifter linkage failure associated with these premium bikes.

This system uses the precision THK ball links. They are pre-greased and have a water-tight seal. The large ball allows smooth operation. They never need servicing. Install them and forget about them. The left-hand and right-hand threaded rod allows an easy final adjustment for pedal position on the long linkage."

My concern, and I generally feel this way when trying to "MODIFY" something the BMW engineers have designed ( I know , the Kool-Aid taste sweet!) is that they had a reason for building it the way that they did, especially after the model has been out for several years. I am told that this so called weak link protects more expensive parts connecting to the transmission and if you beef up the link, those other parts could break in a fall and are not as easy or cheep to repair and or replace.

I carry spare parts for the gear shifter assembly, for an emergency, keep my stock parts greased up and trust the German engineering.

Still don't understand why though the control for the heated seat is on the throttle side of the seat !!!!!!!!!! Must be a good reason somewhere.
 

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dandiver said:
From the Powergrinder site:

"Powergrid is proud to announce a durable solution to the common problem of shifter linkage failure associated with these premium bikes.

This system uses the precision THK ball links. They are pre-greased and have a water-tight seal. The large ball allows smooth operation. They never need servicing. Install them and forget about them. The left-hand and right-hand threaded rod allows an easy final adjustment for pedal position on the long linkage."

My concern, and I generally feel this way when trying to "MODIFY" something the BMW engineers have designed ( I know , the Kool-Aid taste sweet!) is that they had a reason for building it the way that they did, especially after the model has been out for several years. I am told that this so called weak link protects more expensive parts connecting to the transmission and if you beef up the link, those other parts could break in a fall and are not as easy or cheep to repair and or replace.

I carry spare parts for the gear shifter assembly, for an emergency, keep my stock parts greased up and trust the German engineering.

Still don't understand why though the control for the heated seat is on the throttle side of the seat !!!!!!!!!! Must be a good reason somewhere.
You mention a legimate concern. I have not yet had my shift linkage apart to look at it in detail, but I believe someone mentioned a while back that there are actually a couple of linkages in the chain from shifter to gearbox. If this is the case, then the single linkage that is described above may not remove entirely the system "fuse."

Also, not all engineering decisions are driven by the engineers. Many are driven by economics from the MBAs. DAMHIK.
 

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Email sent.
 

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dandiver said:
Still don't understand why though the control for the heated seat is on the throttle side of the seat !!!!!!!!!! Must be a good reason somewhere.

Thats cause they sell the bikes over here in the UK, all ours are right hand drive!!!!
 

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dgl57 said:
I feel that the shifter linkage breaking is mostly due to the nut coming loose and when that happens you lose the rigidity of the shaft and allows the threaded part of the linkage to break because its flexing.
you can replace it with an aftermarket piece but you should still make sure the nut is securely locked and loctited into place and if you do that I think the BMW part will work as well as the aftermarket....
Agreed. Two things happen. The ball joint lube dries out and the motion created by shifting tends to cause the threaded portion to loosen up since the dry joint resists motion. Fortunately mine simply unscrewed and fell out without breaking. With regular cleaning and lubing the joint along with loctite there hasn't been any more problems. I still carry spare parts though.
 

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simon said:
Thats cause they sell the bikes over here in the UK, all ours are right hand drive!!!!
Now that's funny! :rotf:
 

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zippy_gg said:
Now that's funny! :rotf:
OK.... now I get it! but if I ever get a new seat, the heat control is going on the left side....
 

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Is it really necessary to replace the entire shifting assembly? AFAIK, the part that breaks most often is the ball pin (p/n 51247010221). That's also what broke on mine. I mention that because the Powergrid shifting assembly replacement is $98 on their eBay store, which is pricey and potentially not needed. How much are Phil's aftermarket ball pins?

Here's a part fiche for reference:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0559&mospid=47966&btnr=23_0761&hg=23&fg=05

Cheers,
 

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I keep a copy of this diagram with my bikes tool kit, along with the necessary parts to make a road repair. Handy insurance I haven't had to use, but nice if I need it.
 

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browad said:
Is it really necessary to replace the entire shifting assembly? AFAIK, the part that breaks most often is the ball pin (p/n 51247010221). That's also what broke on mine. I mention that because the Powergrid shifting assembly replacement is $98 on their eBay store, which is pricey and potentially not needed. How much are Phil's aftermarket ball pins?

Here's a part fiche for reference:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0559&mospid=47966&btnr=23_0761&hg=23&fg=05

Cheers,
I don't think it is necessary to replace the entire assembly. A few years ago I replaced the OEM ball ends with parts from Midwest Controls. The parts I purchased were ESM-6 and I spent about $20 and still have left overs. The only problem I have had since was one of the studs backed out. I put some locktite on it and reinstalled the same part.
 
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