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Thanks for you responses. It's in the shop getting a diagnosis. Let you know what I find out.
 

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Irv Seaver BMW, recommended and close to me. I will probably regret this.
 

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OK, here it is.

The Lucas synthetic in the FD boiled riding across the states with trailer. When that happened it turned the oil thick and the increased pressure caused a mist to come out the top valve. This explanation along with much more came from a guy with 25 years in oil industry. Two guys couldn't find any issues with final drive, looks solid. Two days working on bike with two fluid changes and only charged me $100. I had to make sure it was a BMW shop. So I'm riding it and am watching.

I've riden it about 1000 miles in the past couple days with no problems. Any comments?
 

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Discussion Starter #85
OK, here it is.

The Lucas synthetic in the FD boiled riding across the states with trailer. When that happened it turned the oil thick and the increased pressure caused a mist to come out the top valve. This explanation along with much more came from a guy with 25 years in oil industry. Two guys couldn't find any issues with final drive, looks solid. Two days working on bike with two fluid changes and only charged me $100. I had to make sure it was a BMW shop. So I'm riding it and am watching.

I've riden it about 1000 miles in the past couple days with no problems. Any comments?
Let's start an oil thread! :histerica
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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He may have 25 years in the oil industry but to say the oil boiled in your rear drive is a bit absurd. According to the Lucas site that oil boils at greater than 500 degrees F. I doubt your drive attained that temperature without damage.

But then who a I to doubt some one in the industry.

Lucas 75/90 Synthetic Gear Oil Product Code: 10047, 10048, 10072, 10073 & 10074
==================================================================
DIVISION AND LOCATION --- SECTION I
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Division: Lucas Oil Products, Inc. • 302 North Sheridan Street • Corona, CA 92880-2067
Emergency Telephone Number: (800) 342-2512
==================================================================
CHEMICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES --- SECTION II
==================================================================
Chemical Name: Synthetic Petroleum hydrocarbon plus additives.
Formula: Proprietary information.
Components: Hydrocracked, Hydroisomorized/C-15/C-55 parafinic oils.
Hazardous Components: Oil mist if generated.
Appearance: Liquid Color: Light yellow/straw Odor: Petroleum and strong
additive
Vapor Density (air = 1 ATM): Greater than air
Boiling Point: > 500 degrees F
 

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Enjoy The Ride
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At 300 degrees the silver paint would be darkened. At 500 degrees it would be blistered.
 

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Hi Charlie. I have an 06 K12LT with 170k miles on it. The FD was rebuilt by Daytona BMW at 85k miles due to failure. I change evey 6k miles. A couple months ago I changed the FD fluid and it was grayer than normal, but no flakes. Yesterday riding the bike seemed different and upon inspection I had a very slight rear wheel wobble. I dropped the fluid today and in was gray, no flakes but thick mud on magnet after about 3.5k miles.
Comments?
 

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2005 K1200LT
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Greg,

Typically the later bikes suffer from a "spinning" taper bearing. That usually makes aluminum powder that darkens the oil. If the wear is not too bad it can be saved on bike by splitting the drive and seeing just how loose the taper bearing is. If not flopping around (0.25 mm of wear or less) too bad you can re-secure that bearing on the shaft with some green loctite and reassemble the drive.

I have done that to a few of them with no further issues.
 

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Would you think a rebuild on FD to be a good idea if you have it apart anyway?
 

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Are you and saddleman still doing rebuilds on these?
 

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2005 K1200LT
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To do a proper assessment the entire drive needs to be sent. Go with Dave as I am out of commission for a few more months following my surgery.
 

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Update.

I was riding through Las Vegas and the rear wheel now could be wiggled at 3 and 9 so took it to the local dealer. Sure enough, like I told the guys in California, needed rebuild including tapered roller bearing and needle sleeves. Also needed a housing cover ($323). So, hopefully good for another 85k miles. The price on the rebuild actually came down from 4 years ago. My bikes now, beside this one, are chain. Easy to replace and can carry a spare with me.
Thanks guys.
 

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Update.

I was riding through Las Vegas and the rear wheel now could be wiggled at 3 and 9 so took it to the local dealer. Sure enough, like I told the guys in California, needed rebuild including tapered roller bearing and needle sleeves. Also needed a housing cover ($323). So, hopefully good for another 85k miles. The price on the rebuild actually came down from 4 years ago. My bikes now, beside this one, are chain. Easy to replace and can carry a spare with me.
Thanks guys.
Prior to getting the LT, all of my other bikes had chain drive. I liked the thought of never having to adjust and lube the chain and carry around a spare master link and chain breaker. In college, I carpooled with a former Harley rider - he had dropped his bike and his thumb went through the sprocket. FD's still have their advantages... :corn:
 

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On a ride out yesterday I was doing about 60Mph with the wife on the back and the bike suddenly developed a wobble on the back end that I at first assumed was a punctured tyre. I pulled up as soon as it was safe to do so and once I'd got off the bike and had a look at the rear end it seems the entire oil contents of the final drive were over the whole rear tyre, wheel, brake rotor, calipers etc.

It had just had the oil changed the day before (along with gearbox oil and engine oil/filter), the drain plug had the usual minimal fuzz on it but I did notice a blob of some grease on the drain plug which I don't know how it got on there but it had been in the dealers shop for the seal doing that is behind that rubber boot about 10k miles previously and I assumed it was maybe used by the tech to help fit the seal. I didn't think much of it at the time but now I'm wondering!!

The oil colour was the same as it usually was when it gets changed and the bike had no oil leaks or even weeping on inspection. The ride was smooth, no grinding noises, no weird noises at all and whatever failed did so in a very sudden manner with no warning at all beforehand.

As this only happened yesterday I haven't inspected anything yet but I'm assuming it wasn't just a seal failing as I thought seals failed gradually rather than catastrophically. I will edit this post as and when I find out what's happened but feel free to give pointers on what I should be looking for as I'm no expert.
 

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129K 03, final drive is terminal, wheel wobbles and makes weeky weeky noise on the center stand, feels like going over tar strips when (last) ridden. AFAICT ridden K's of miles after it started to fail (flipper PO). bought a used FD, 99 @67K "looks good" LOL, Is there anything I c(sh)ould do, look at, on the used unit before swapping it in? Are there any good FD remove/replace how to's?
 

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129K 03, final drive is terminal, wheel wobbles and makes weeky weeky noise on the center stand, feels like going over tar strips when (last) ridden. AFAICT ridden K's of miles after it started to fail (flipper PO). bought a used FD, 99 @67K "looks good" LOL, Is there anything I c(sh)ould do, look at, on the used unit before swapping it in? Are there any good FD remove/replace how to's?
The 99 FD will have the speed sensor hole that will have to be plugged because it is not used on the 03.
 

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The 99 FD will have the speed sensor hole that will have to be plugged because it is not used on the 03.
Funny "some internet guy" told me I couldn't use an 05 FD for sale locally because I needed the hole. Then the "99" final drive I got from Canada didn't have the hole... So it all worked out and the FD seems to be all better now. Won't know for sure til the gusher front brake line is replaced (there's a thread) So I can rack up a few miles. Rockerbox next weekend! :)
 

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Saddleman Rocks


I found lots of metal flakes when changing the final drive fluid of my 2000 LT with 84000 miles. I contacted Dave and he was able to turn the drive around very quickly. Dave found too much preload on the original bearing as the cause of the failure. Installed the drive last Thursday and it is smoother and quieter than ever. A big Thanks to Dave (Saddleman).
 
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