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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well that really is what I may have to do and this is why.

I need a lift for this bike bad. Problem is all I have is a carport enclosed on 3 sides, windows down the one side length.

So the dilemma is space. I currently park on a 4x8 sheet of 3/4" plywood off center in the carport and that allows enough room for also being able to use it to grill, and chair or two and such.

So if I get a lift it has to fit on that 4x8 and I NEED to park on it every day.

How much of a pain is that going to be?

I assume folded, of floor height is going to be the issue? I think if it is like 7" then on the center stand, I am going to be taking an extra 7" step down. And more importantly, up. I can overcome that with a step of some type, on each side.

I guess what concerns me the most is hitting that ramp each time, both directions. And by ramp I mean the smaller little pieces that make the transition off the ramp, I mean I know I can hit a 24" ramp no issues, just that smaller one, and I am not even sure I would need it?

I mean I know I am capable of hitting it and all that but is it a really big deal to do day in and day out?

Here are some of a bunch I got my eye on:

http://www.asedeals.com/ATV_motorcycle_lift.html

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Motorcycle_Lifts_s/2.htm

Most are 24-29" wide, and 84" or so long.

I like the idea of a drop tail, is that the way to go?

Most I look at are without the side rails as I don't need them or their bulk, and are in the 1000-1500 pound lift range.

How important is table or deck height with the LT. To get into 40" heights cost a bit more, most are 30" or so.

Is air, or pneumatics, or ones that do both, any better, more to worry about, etc?

Any thoughts and personal experience would be much appreciated.
 

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OK, I guess I'm missing something here but, why do you need a lift?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Big_E said:
OK, I guess I'm missing something here but, why do you need a lift?
Well because I plan on keeping the bike and doing most of my own work, and I do not enjoy turning upside down on the blanket laying on the floor to reach something, not as young and flexible as I used to be.

Got major work to do soon with two new shocks and some other things, well all things I can afford, and think of, are going to be done at the same time.

I just would like to have my work at eye level or close and a jack is the way to go.

I have had my last one for about 10 years but it will not work on the LT. I just can not do with out one is really what it comes down to. Just makes working so much more enjoyable to raise and lower your work area depending on task.

Guess I am just spoiled.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you.

I like that choice and if I can get away with out a table I would like to.

grahamw said:
Lee

Have a look at http://on-bike.com/products_bigblue.htm Does not take up as much room and can be kept out of the way. There is a specific lifting kit for the LT.

Regards
 

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Parking on a lift

Lee
I do park on a lift every day, I have a drive on lift along with a tire machine set up in my garage so combined with the tool boxes, work benches and a total of 3 motorcycles, something has to be parked on the lift at all times. With the LT driving up onto the lift you will find the skid plate under the transmission drags, only slightly but most of the time you will hear it touch on the way up and down also remember to get the front tire clamp on some of these lifts that is an accessory that you have to purchase seperately.

Now a word of caution, if you intend to buy one of the 24" wide lifts remember that unless you are awfully long legged it will be very difficult to have a firm footing once you start up onto the lift. Many of the manufacturers offer side boards that attach to each side to increase the width to allow for four wheelers etc. to be driven onto the lift, I would recomend that you get them when you buy the lift. An alternative would be to construct a couple of platforms from boards such as 2"X8"'s to lay alongside the lift to provide the footing but please do provide something or I can almost guaranty you will have a problem. With regard to the removable panel to aid access to the rear wheel it is a great thing for a lot of bikes but is not necessary for an LT or for that matter most if not all bikes that have a one sided swing arm like the LT, just remove the rear panel (a couple of screws) and roll the tire out the back.

Just a word about the frame contact type of lift, I have one of those as well and use it when washing my Harley but as for using it with the LT, I would not recomend it, heavy bikes are not very stable on this type of lift....yes I know they can be used but having a heavy bike like a touring bike up on one is not a confidence inspiring experience. And since the biggest part of the maintenance that will be done involves accessing the bottom of the engine and transmission you will find that type to be in the way.

Personal preference and economics both enter the picture here so ultimately you will chose what fits your situation best I just hope this helps
Jim
 

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Telle and I store our wood pellets (for the pellet stove) along one wall of the garage. This past fall, when they rolled in the 1.5 ton pallets, the floor broke up pretty badly.
Always one to take advantage of a bad situation, I promptly volunteered to rent a jackhammer this spring, after all the pellets have been used up this winter. I'm going to bust up and remove the rest of the garage floor, and have a new, reinforced one poured. Part of that process will be to install a small pit, which oddly enough, will be the perfect size and depth to drop in my ride-on lift, which will make the ride on surface level with the floor. When not needed, a reinforced cover will completely hide the lift and allow normal traffic in the garage (i.e.: I can roll the bike in and just park it over the lift).

How's the floor of your carport? How gullible is the better half?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you cfell and jdunique.

After looking at a hundred or so lifts it does appear the side rails will be a very necessary evil. As you pointed out jdunique I will need something to step on and what is the point of laying a piece of wood down or having the steel extensions on.

I also was concerned on the skid plate touching and most of these have a motorcycle pre-ramp and is why I was asking about hitting that small of ramp day in and day out.

Since I did do the EBC rotor I also knew that I really did not need a drop bottom or drop cut out but most come with at least the cut out.

Biggest issue is finding some one close and I think I have for the Handy Lift.

Shipping on these things is just unreal!!!!!

Again I appreciate the perspectives.

Still have not tried the lift I own because of advice of the forum. It did hold my Road Glide solid as a rock and I used the dill out of it. It appears the short frame rails on the LT pose the issue, not so much my lifts ability to hold the weight.

I still have time and want to make the right choice as for sure this will be the last lift I will ever buy, I just need it to hold up to everyday parking and mild use.
 

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Tat_n_Telle said:
Telle and I store our wood pellets (for the pellet stove) along one wall of the garage. This past fall, when they rolled in the 1.5 ton pallets, the floor broke up pretty badly.
Always one to take advantage of a bad situation, I promptly volunteered to rent a jackhammer this spring, after all the pellets have been used up this winter. I'm going to bust up and remove the rest of the garage floor, and have a new, reinforced one poured. Part of that process will be to install a small pit, which oddly enough, will be the perfect size and depth to drop in my ride-on lift, which will make the ride on surface level with the floor. When not needed, a reinforced cover will completely hide the lift and allow normal traffic in the garage (i.e.: I can roll the bike in and just park it over the lift).

How's the floor of your carport? How gullible is the better half?
Hey, Paul - I know you know, butt just a reminder. If you drop your lift into the cavity so that the working surface of the lift is level with the garage floor, you're losing about ~7" in tabletop lifting height --- be about 24"-25", instead of the ~32" with 'most' tabletop lifts. Just a reminder.

BTW - what brand lift you buying? If a Handy, and it's electric, allow your cavity length dimensions a leetle extra to permit you to work the push/pull cable knob to activate the lift motor. That lever is at the very front of the lift table and extends beyond about 3". Again, you prolly already know this, butt just a reminder.

I'm not pushing one brand of lift over another, butt the Handy Lift is the one I have, so I'm familiar with it. The basic lift surface is 80" in length, so if not doing the optional 13" front extension plate, your cavity length should be minimum 87". I'd recommend the optional 13" front extension plate. That means your cavity length should be about 100". The LT's wheelbase is 64", so you'd think the basic 80" surface length is good! Well, if you have the optional vise installed, you can't get the front wheel all the way to the front edge of the table, and when you put the bike on the centerstand, it'll rock back several inches and the rear wheel will, in my estimation, be too close to the table's rear edge.

Anyway, I think what you're planning has merit. It's been done before by some folks who were active on the old Yahoo LT forums. You won't have an issue working in the same place each time? I move mine around occasionally, based on what's in the garage or the storage unit with 'location' priority! For this, I heartily recommend the optional two-wheel dolly.

Good luck, Paul. When you do the project, take us some underway-pics we can view.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Man you ARE a nut :rotf:

If she buys that then you got a keeper for sure.

Tat_n_Telle said:
Telle and I store our wood pellets (for the pellet stove) along one wall of the garage. This past fall, when they rolled in the 1.5 ton pallets, the floor broke up pretty badly.
Always one to take advantage of a bad situation, I promptly volunteered to rent a jackhammer this spring, after all the pellets have been used up this winter. I'm going to bust up and remove the rest of the garage floor, and have a new, reinforced one poured. Part of that process will be to install a small pit, which oddly enough, will be the perfect size and depth to drop in my ride-on lift, which will make the ride on surface level with the floor. When not needed, a reinforced cover will completely hide the lift and allow normal traffic in the garage (i.e.: I can roll the bike in and just park it over the lift).

How's the floor of your carport? How gullible is the better half?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So you like the Handy?

Reason I ask is no matter what you are paying for shipping.

I have both a Handy (775) and the next model SAM (880) in stock, 45 minuets from my house. Not cheap at all. The Handy is 80" and the SAM is 84" about 130 difference in price, when I add 8" rails, not 12", to save a little space.

So you are saying the extension is needed on both?

Are you satisfied with the Lift in general? Do those prices seem high compared to your cost?

Thanks

Dick said:
Hey, Paul - I know you know, butt just a reminder. If you drop your lift into the cavity so that the working surface of the lift is level with the garage floor, you're losing about ~7" in tabletop lifting height --- be about 24"-25", instead of the ~32" with 'most' tabletop lifts. Just a reminder.

BTW - what brand lift you buying? If a Handy, and it's electric, allow your cavity length dimensions a leetle extra to permit you to work the push/pull cable knob to activate the lift motor. That lever is at the very front of the lift table and extends beyond about 3". Again, you prolly already know this, butt just a reminder.

I'm not pushing one brand of lift over another, butt the Handy Lift is the one I have, so I'm familiar with it. The basic lift surface is 80" in length, so if not doing the optional 13" front extension plate, your cavity length should be minimum 87". I'd recommend the optional 13" front extension plate. That means your cavity length should be about 100". The LT's wheelbase is 64", so you'd think the basic 80" surface length is good! Well, if you have the optional vise installed, you can't get the front wheel all the way to the front edge of the table, and when you put the bike on the centerstand, it'll rock back several inches and the rear wheel will, in my estimation, be too close to the table's rear edge.

Anyway, I think what you're planning has merit. It's been done before by some folks who were active on the old Yahoo LT forums. You won't have an issue working in the same place each time? I move mine around occasionally, based on what's in the garage or the storage unit with 'location' priority! For this, I heartily recommend the optional two-wheel dolly.

Good luck, Paul. When you do the project, take us some underway-pics we can view.
 

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LAF said:
So you like the Handy?

Reason I ask is no matter what you are paying for shipping.

I have both a Handy (775) and the next model SAM (880) in stock, 45 minuets from my house. Not cheap at all. The Handy is 80" and the SAM is 84" about 130 difference in price, when I add 8" rails, not 12", to save a little space.

So you are saying the extension is needed on both?

Are you satisfied with the Lift in general? Do those prices seem high compared to your cost?

Thanks
Hi, Lee - I'm extremely satisfied with my Handy Lift. Will buy another if this one walks off!! ;)

My personal opinion on the front extension - go for it. When I've got ole Toad up in the air, I like plenty of all-round room and not have to worry "am I too close to the back edge" - "am I gonna bump the trunk" - etc. Just me.

I'm not sure on new prices versus when I bought mine. I ordered it in Oct '99 - negotiated a slight discount. Invoiced/paid $920/782 for the elec. version; $89/75 for the vise; $72/61 for the front extension; and $30/25 for the dolly. $113 shipping to TX from Iowa. Later that month, I ordered two 8" side extensions with pieces to make the ramp wider - $153.

Speaking of ramp clearance. I'm pretty overweight (should be 9'4" tall!!) and bottomed the skid plate too often. I fab'd some staggered and stacked plywood pieces that fit under the ramp rear; extended out behind the ramp about 3' - raised the ramp about 1.75" and no more dragging bottom.
 

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Motorcycle Lift

Lee
I purchased my lift which is a ProCylcle XLT from a distributor in Orlando, Fl so that I could avoid the shipping which is as you suggested kinda pricy. This has been an excellent lift, quality every bit as good as a Handy which is what you find in most dealerships and was the prevalent lift back when I was in a dealership.
I see in your post that you live in or near Harrisburg, Pa. and there is a distributor in Newark, De. that sells the ProCycle line as well as others, according to my mapping software it would be about 80 miles one way to pick it up. Their website is: http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Motorcycle_Lifts_s/2.htm

Currently the ProCycle line is on sale for example the XLT is currently priced at $725.00 and includes the side extensions, the vise, the dolly for moving the lift and the standard size is 93 inches in length eliminating the need for the front extension, the surface is diamond plate and the entire lift is powder coated and has held up very well over almost three years of consant use in my case.
Guess I sound like a sales person for their product but I am not, I did however do quite a bit of research into these before purchasing mine and the savings in cost over the Handy is why I purchased this one to begin with, because of the excellent service I have had thus far I would recomend you consider one too.
Good luck with whatever your choice is
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thank you so much for your time on this. I had and am still looking at lifts and this was one of my finals because of the 93" table.

My only concern is this quote:

"Manufactured in a 100% American owned offshore factory.
Sold by a 100% American owned distributor
that has been in the lift business for 27 years.
Enough said."

The other is I want 8" rails not 12" to save a little space. And to keep from reaching across that 12" rail. The 80 miles is not really a big deal at all, although, the Handy SAM 1000 is only 40 miles or so.

The Handy will be in the 1200 range, and I really like the 725 range for the XLT. Hard to think the Handy is worth 475 more then the XLT, even though it is American Made. And it is only a 83" table.

Of course money is coming into play so I may have to give up something to afford a lift, be it my exact idea of a lift, or the sobering reality of money, and the lift I can afford :rolleyes:




jdunique said:
Lee
I purchased my lift which is a ProCylcle XLT from a distributor in Orlando, Fl so that I could avoid the shipping which is as you suggested kinda pricy. This has been an excellent lift, quality every bit as good as a Handy which is what you find in most dealerships and was the prevalent lift back when I was in a dealership.
I see in your post that you live in or near Harrisburg, Pa. and there is a distributor in Newark, De. that sells the ProCycle line as well as others, according to my mapping software it would be about 80 miles one way to pick it up. Their website is: http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Motorcycle_Lifts_s/2.htm

Currently the ProCycle line is on sale for example the XLT is currently priced at $725.00 and includes the side extensions, the vise, the dolly for moving the lift and the standard size is 93 inches in length eliminating the need for the front extension, the surface is diamond plate and the entire lift is powder coated and has held up very well over almost three years of consant use in my case.
Guess I sound like a sales person for their product but I am not, I did however do quite a bit of research into these before purchasing mine and the savings in cost over the Handy is why I purchased this one to begin with, because of the excellent service I have had thus far I would recomend you consider one too.
Good luck with whatever your choice is
 

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Lee
The side extensions on this lift the same as others are mounted by inserting a piece of tubing (or pipe) through holes that are precut into the deck edges then the extension slips over the tube and a clip is inserted in the end to retain it. in order to narrow the extensions a welding shop could cut a band out of the panels and weld it back together you would then shorten the tubes and redrill the hole into which the retaining pin is inserted or you could use some pipe from a local hardware store and fit a 2X8 on top of the pipe to provide your own extensions. If you decide to go that way you could order the cheaper lift which now sells for $595 and the only shortcoming of doing it that way is you have to purchase the dolly seprerately but it would still represent a savings. Of course that only repersents a savings of about 8 inches in overall width and in my case when I ride up onto the lift and put down the side stand so that I can step off I use all of the width available.
Good luck with what ever path you choose!
 

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Lee,

I frequently park on my Handy Lift to save some space in the garage. One can support a couple of 2x12's on pipes placed through the pre-cut holes in the lift. That gives me a platform to put my feet on when driving the LT up onto the lift. I can safely deploy me sidestand long enough to dismount the LT, then pop her up on the center stand. When using the lift, I just remove the boards.

Works for me!

Regards,

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thank you for the pictures. That is the perspective I needed to see.

With the boards on I can see what I have on just the lift table. NO way for me on that, as others have rightly said.

Is that "just" a Handy, or is it the SAM? The reason I am asking is the length.

My biggest concern is having enough space to deploy the electric center stand, and not having to sweat every inch when parking.

I am leaning toward the pro cycle XLT because of cost, and mostly length of 93".

Thank you again for those pics.

pdrstraw said:
Lee,

I frequently park on my Handy Lift to save some space in the garage. One can support a couple of 2x12's on pipes placed through the pre-cut holes in the lift. That gives me a platform to put my feet on when driving the LT up onto the lift. I can safely deploy me sidestand long enough to dismount the LT, then pop her up on the center stand. When using the lift, I just remove the boards.

Works for me!

Regards,

Paul
 

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Mine is the regular Handy...not the SAM. I would think that by pulling forward into the chock, then deploying your center stand (mine is an '01 without the power stand, making it necessary for me to dismount before lifting it up onto the center stand), you'd be in good shape. You'll notice in my photos that when I put the LT on the center stand, it backs out of the chock a little. I still have room on the lift to accomodate that.

Regards,
 
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