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2000 here. Bike ran fine during summer and battery got low over winter. Replaced battery in spring and now starter not cranking at all. everything lit up and seemed fine. Hit the starter button and relay clicked and headlight dimmed. i spent the money and got the relay upgrade and installed it. same exact problem. This is driving me crazy. Any ideas? thank you in advance.
 

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2000 here. Bike ran fine during summer and battery got low over winter. Replaced battery in spring and now starter not cranking at all. everything lit up and seemed fine. Hit the starter button and relay clicked and headlight dimmed. i spent the money and got the relay upgrade and installed it. same exact problem. This is driving me crazy. Any ideas? thank you in advance.
It sounds like your starter is frozen. Just curious if you have tried to bump start it. Get a few people behind pushing and try it in 2nd or 3rd to make sure it will run. Hopefully the motor isn't seized up. Have not run into this yet on the forum so I am sure others will chime in with ideas.
 
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are sure you have refitted all the wires to the battery?, could be in reverse, could be side stand switch you need to check all these components if it has been sitting for so long, it could literally be anything good Luck.
 

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Hate to ask something simple, but are you sure the kill switch is completely in the "run" position? I constantly make that mistake.

Make sure the transmission is in neutral to eliminate the sidestand switch ... It should start with the stand down in neutral.

You did the starter relay upgrade but maybe you have a loose connection on the upgrade?

Also try and see if the starter will crank with jumper cables applied directly to it (bypassing the relay). If it cranks, it ain't the starter.
 

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You might want to load test the battery. It might not have the beans to turn the motor over.:wave
 
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Yes, just because the battery is new or newer, does not eliminate it from possibilities. You need to put a volt meter on it when you try to start the bike. If it drops lower than 9.5 or 10 volts there is a problem. Also the problem might be a frozen starter drawing lots of current (lights dimming). Not unusual for the old style starters to have a field magnet fall off inside the starter jamming things.
 

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I did try to connect the starter directly to a running truck via jumper cables with everything else disconnected. the starter cranked over some but i think i had a poor connection from the positive wire off the starter ( the small flat round factory connector to the teeth of jumper cables) and the starter was cranking the engine but spotty.
 

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are sure you have refitted all the wires to the battery?, could be in reverse, could be side stand switch you need to check all these components if it has been sitting for so long, it could literally be anything good Luck.
To my best knowledge the wires on the battery are all connected. I checked all the wires that i could find to and from battery/starter for corrosion and tightness. All seemed fine. As for all the other switches i am trying to figure out how to test them all. That is my next step.
 

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Yes, just because the battery is new or newer, does not eliminate it from possibilities. You need to put a volt meter on it when you try to start the bike. If it drops lower than 9.5 or 10 volts there is a problem. Also the problem might be a frozen starter drawing lots of current (lights dimming). Not unusual for the old style starters to have a field magnet fall off inside the starter jamming things.
Just tried it. Battery at 12.69V key off. Key on it went to 12.45V (dash lights and headlight on). Hit starter button relay clicks then went to 11.45V. let off button back around 12.45V. Key off back to 12.69V
 

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I think you have to pull the starter and have it tested. After that, make sure you clean it inside and out and provide some lubrication before you reassemble it an reinstall.
 
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Just tried it. Battery at 12.69V key off. Key on it went to 12.45V (dash lights and headlight on). Hit starter button relay clicks then went to 11.45V. let off button back around 12.45V. Key off back to 12.69V
The starter should be turning at that voltage because the rely would not click if it was below 11 volts period. I would re-look your installation of the new relay to make sure you have the correct wires tied together tightly at the relay since you attached pigtails from the new relay to existing wiring.


You can also try jumping with only one wire from your own battery (+) to this tie point behind the battery where the starter wire is located. Don't even need the key on to see if starter is spinning.
 

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Having similar problems with my 2004 with the newer style relay. Hit the starter button and just hear a click from the relay. Battery is always on charger when not in use, voltage is at 13V etc. Just wondering if relay is fubarred? Stripped the old girl down and removed the relay, tried getting one of our Tech guys at work to test the relay, but they weren't sure if they would fry it by putting a full 12V through it.

Considering purchasing a new relay, but at $235 CDN for a new one, I want to make sure it is in fact the relay? Any suggestions? I did try a push start with the bike in second gear down the slope out of my garage, she fired up right away and ran just fine. Went down the road and back, shut it off in the garage...hit the starter...nuthin!! I'm thinking it is in fact the relay...any other opinions?
 

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Having similar problems with my 2004 with the newer style relay. Hit the starter button and just hear a click from the relay. Battery is always on charger when not in use, voltage is at 13V etc. Just wondering if relay is fubarred? Stripped the old girl down and removed the relay, tried getting one of our Tech guys at work to test the relay, but they weren't sure if they would fry it by putting a full 12V through it.

Considering purchasing a new relay, but at $235 CDN for a new one, I want to make sure it is in fact the relay? Any suggestions? I did try a push start with the bike in second gear down the slope out of my garage, she fired up right away and ran just fine. Went down the road and back, shut it off in the garage...hit the starter...nuthin!! I'm thinking it is in fact the relay...any other opinions?
If 12V fries a 12V relay, then it was defective to start with.
 
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That's what I thought, according the the Techs, they've never seen a relay quite like it. It's a little more complex than the average relay they normally see. From what they tell me, it's got some type of transistor in it and they were worried that it might be fed by 5V from a source within the electrical box. just thought I'd see if anyone know anything about them?
 

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That's what I thought, according the the Techs, they've never seen a relay quite like it. It's a little more complex than the average relay they normally see. From what they tell me, it's got some type of transistor in it and they were worried that it might be fed by 5V from a source within the electrical box. just thought I'd see if anyone know anything about them?
I have thankfully not had any trouble with mine and am not real familiar with them. I think JohnZ is probably the resident expert.

My recollection is that BMW had some issues with relays sticking when battery voltage was low. I suspect the high current draw at low voltage was overheating the contacts, but I don't know the root cause for sure. I believe the later relays had a voltage sense circuit added to prevent relay actuation if the voltage was too low to crank the engine at the desired RPM. It certainly would be wise to have a wiring diagram to properly identify the relay terminals. Or search the forum as I believe this relay has been discussed at length in the past. Or wait until JZ has time to reply.
 
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Yes, low voltage is a serious problem, thus protection. The low voltage creates a high current flow situation and the main contacts weld closed. Smoke ensues.
(be cautious about assuming batteries are okay just because you keep it charged, occasionally they are not and only a load test shows the truth. Voltage should not drop below 10 volts with a starter load on it.)
 

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I did try boosting with a charge pack to ensure there was enough voltage running through the battery. Would that be enough or should I be load testing the battery? I did put a voltage meter on it and is at 13V with key off, drops to 11.9 with key turned on and all dash lights and headlamp on, still just a click in the starter relay. As I stated earlier, I did push start the bike and it fired up without issue did a run round the block and returned, shut off and still no starter.
 

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If the relay is clicking then there is an issue down stream. It is a complex circuit inside the blue relay box. It ties into other circuits and also measures the battery voltage before it will engage the relay portion in the blue box. First one is original old relay then the retrofited relay.
 

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