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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone. Big Betsy has been in the garage for the past month. I had to install a beam spanning my garage door and because the gent who helped me had limited time it was not a quick job. The door was immobile during this period as the tracks had to be removed to do the job.

Yesterday we finally took the door down and I was able to get Betsy out. I checked the tires, fired up her and took a short spin around the neighborhood. All seemed to be well. Today I started her and was talking to a neighbor and when I looked over at the bike there was liquid dripping from the bottom of the bike (at the oil pan cover). It turned out to be gas.

Now my question. Since my garage is currently stuffed with furniture (remodeling) I will have to pull the bike out to work on her. I would like to ensure that I have whatever parts I need to fix the leak the same day I begin the work. I would like to solicit your suggestions on what the most likely cause is and what parts I might need. Thanks in advance for any advice. This is a great forum and is always a tremendous help.

The good news is my 30K maintenance is due so I was going to be working on her anyhow.

Thanks again. :bmw: :bmw: :bmw:
 

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I've read a lot of talk about some plastic quick disconnects in the fuel lines?
 

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Normally that leak is from the quick disconnect fittings where the fuel line goes into the tank. If you want to be sure to have something that will get you by until you get metal quick disconnects, go to your local hardware store and get 2 ea 5/16 brass Straight Barb Hose Coupler Fittings and 4 hose clamps to fit.

When it happened to me I broke the second one just getting it out of the way.

HTH,

Ron
 

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What Ron said..

Getcha some straight thru barbed couplers and some hose clamps and It'll never
need fixin again.

Or some metal quick disconnects...

John
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Is there a part number for metal quick disconnects or are they an aftermarket part?
 

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+1 on Ron. Get the cheap fittings from the hardware store instead of the pricey disconnects from BMW. The cheap fittings will last forever.

Getting the old one's off is a real pain, so I broke it and left the male end of the disconnect in the line. Pretty simple fix overall.
 

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free2ride said:
Is there a part number for metal quick disconnects or are they an aftermarket part?
I picked mine up at smallparts.com. See this thread for the part numbers.

Remember to install them opposite male-to-female so it makes it easier to reconnect the lines correctly if you ever have to uncouple them (I.e., one line has male on the right and the other line, put the male on the left hand side).

There's also another thread about these parts that is easily found searching "smallparts" in the K1200LT forum.

HTH,
Jer
 

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simoncharles said:
The rubber seal can also leak if the cap holding it in place becomes slightly loose.
Are you talking about the filler cap?
Thanks
 

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Out in west Texas, smelled fuel a while back.

Since I have not yet done my QDs, I went to home depot but all the had was 1/4".

Picked up a couple, plus clamps, in case fuel smell coming from my bike (smell disappeared after a couple miles and no visible spray or wetness).

QUESTION: anyone see a problem with using 1/4 instead of 5/16 as an emergency repair just to make the 300 mile trip home, if it comes to it?
 

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I had installed the quick disconnects last winter and three days ago, a very strong smell of fuel in the garage. I've been riding the bike all summer and assumed that maybe a fuel line had split. When I took the tupperware off, the leak was the rubber seal around the fuel pump was leaking. I tried to tighten the ring which only made the leak worse. Disassmbled everything and re-assembled with a little lube - leak is cured. Also, figured out that the fuel pump can be removed without pulling the fuel pump.
 

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deputy5211 said:
Out in west Texas, smelled fuel a while back.

Since I have not yet done my QDs, I went to home depot but all the had was 1/4".

Picked up a couple, plus clamps, in case fuel smell coming from my bike (smell disappeared after a couple miles and no visible spray or wetness).

QUESTION: anyone see a problem with using 1/4 instead of 5/16 as an emergency repair just to make the 300 mile trip home, if it comes to it?
I'd use 5/16 on the pressurized side if at all possible. I got mine at Autozone.
 

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Made it home, there was no fuel leak. Was a wake-up call to get the metal QDs from RPW on the bike.

Tupperware is off on that side and am headed back out to put them on. Unopened double-barbs will go back to the Home Despot. :D
 

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I did a search for “fuel leak” and found this thread. I thought I’d add to this one instead of starting a new one so maybe the next guy will find some help all in one place.

I’m a new owner of a 03 LT and never had any Tupperware off the bike since I’ve owned it, but a fuel leak has me wrenching on this thing for the first time. While searching for info here, I also found a post by a member who described how to remover the panel to get at the QD’s. I have forgotten his name, but his post made the job very easy for a first timer like myself, so I wanted to share it with everyone who may not have seen it. I hope he doesn’t mind my additions to his post. By the way every tool needed is in the tool pouch that came with the bike. Any way thanks again to who ever posted this originally, you really made my job easy.


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The only tupperware you need to remove is the right upper body panel. There quite few screws of different lengths, so pay attention to sizes as you remove them.

Here’s what you need to do remove to get to QD’s.
*Remove the tip over wing outer cover. (two screws, underneath the wing)
*Remove the tip over chrome cover. (three screws, two underneath, one in the rear.)
(NOTE: If you have J-Pegs of Mick-o-Pegs you need to remove them first)
(When removing the J-Pegs be careful not to lose the small steel indexing ball)
*Remove the right mirror with a sharp blow using the palm of your hand.
*Remove the right turn signal.
*Remove the small panel directly in front of the seat. (two screws under oddments lid, then slide down.)
*Remove right side adjustable wind deflector. (three screws underneath unit.)
*Remove body panel screws. From memory they are located:
-one under the mirror.
-two in turn signal recess.
-three along the bottom of the panel.
-one under the seat.
-one under the oddment lock cover.
*After you have all the screws removed, there is a steel plug under the seat location that clips into a rubber donut. Pop that loose, then grab the panel and remove it. There is a channel along the top edge of the panel that secures it under the stingray, carefully rotate out and up to free it from the channel. QD’s will be located under the fuel tank.

To re-assemble, pop the panel into the channel, the plug into the rubber donut and secure the screws.

Don’t forget to put some leashes on the mirrors if you don’t have them.
 

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