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Discussion Starter #1
Hi!
I'm sure this is out there...but I can't find any step by step to replace rear pads (K1200LT '00).
Tell me if it's in the owner manual...I haven't looked there yet ;)
Thanks very much,
Rick vV
 

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Take pliers to remove the snap clips, pull the pins, lift the cover, pull the pads. Compress the pucks before you try putting the new pads on.

If you'll search the Hall of Wisdom (HOW), some have written steps on how to bed the pads in.

Hope this helps,
Curt
 

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rickvv2 said:
Hi!
I'm sure this is out there...but I can't find any step by step to replace rear pads (K1200LT '00).
Tell me if it's in the owner manual...I haven't looked there yet ;)
Thanks very much,
Rick vV
I'd like to add that you should MARK the orientation of the outermost twisted metal thing (retaining plate) because it can be installed upside-down and without a service manual you'll be guessing.
Also go to the hardware store and buy extra split pin keepers for the pad retaining screws. I've had them fall out and now I twist the screw to prevent gravity from allowing this to occur.
 

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LAF said:
This should help.
The attached is a good write up BUT I never had to pull the entire caliper assembly off as Pete indicates, in fact I just did mine with the wheel in place. Is the 2006 different than the 2000?
 

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SmokinJoe said:
The attached is a good write up BUT I never had to pull the entire caliper assembly off as Pete indicates, in fact I just did mine with the wheel in place. Is the 2006 different than the 2000?
I just provided ALL the info he would need in the reference document I had.

What part of it he needs, and uses, is up to him :)

Me, I would never change pads and not clean calipers, and pucks, and inspect. Very little difference in time, compared to examining your only means of stopping ;)

DISCLAIMER: This is not my document nor do I warrant explicit or implied, any information of said document. Use at your own risk :rolleyes:
 

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LAF said:
I just provided ALL the info he would need in the reference document I had.

What part of it he needs, and uses, is up to him :)

Me, I would never change pads and not clean calipers, and pucks, and inspect. Very little difference in time, compared to examining your only means of stopping ;)

DISCLAIMER: This is not my document nor do I warrant explicit or implied, any information of said document. Use at your own risk :rolleyes:
And good info it is.
My main question was if there was a substancial difference in the years.
I also wanted to point out how easy it was to do a pad inspection/measurement, something people should check regularly, as I said earlier the keeper was once gone on mine.
 

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SmokinJoe said:
And good info it is.
My main question was if there was a substancial difference in the years.
The rear caliper is exactly the same for all years of the LT. The reservoirs are different from 99-00, 01 -04 and 05 & up. There is no need to remove the caliper but it does make it easier to clean and inspect if you don't like laying on your back.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You guys rock!
I'll be going through this Monday night the 10th August, if I can.
Thanks for all your advice.
Rickvv
 

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Rick,
I just replaced my pads this weekend. I didn't remove my rear wheel and don't know why anyone would unless there is some difference between an 00 and an 02 that I don't know about.

The rest of the instructions in the posted file are excellent and the pics are extra-excellent.

Another thing to be aware of.

If you or a previous owner have every added brake fluid, you can overflow the reservoir when you push the pistons back into the calipers. If the reservoir was at max when the pads were last replaced, and no fluid has been added, then the level should just come back to the max line.

And just in case you aren't aware, brake fluid destroys the paint on your bike, so be careful.

I also pull the caliper to inspect/clean the pistons, but you can replace the pads without removing the calipers if you want.

Great avitar, by the way. Are you a dead head?

Good luck,

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yep,
DeadHead from way back.

And I did my rear pads yesterday without pulling the wheel (couldn't turn the lugnuts with the wimpy lugwrench that came on the bike). 'Twas a little awkward getting a good angle to see the little
Practiced pulling/replacing the little pinkeepers twice or three times just to make sure.
And marked the twisted metal cover thingie,to ensure proper replacement.

Used the old pads to press the pistons back in...and all slid right into place like I had done it before!
(highly recommend wearing latex exam gloves to keep the brake dust out of your skin)

My brake fluid looks low, so it's going to be time for that. And thanks for the warning about fluid eating paint.

Thanks all!
 

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space_coast_lt said:
Rick,
I just replaced my pads this weekend. I didn't remove my rear wheel and don't know why anyone would unless there is some difference between an 00 and an 02 that I don't know about.
The difference is the '02 calipers are made by BMW and the '99, '00, and some of the '01s are by Brembo. And for me it is just easier to pull the Brembo caliper off to replace the pads. But that's just me.
 
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