[harleyhoover]

I cannot overstate how much I appreciate this entire great source of info on everything LT. I'm kinda stuck right now. I'm about to upgrade my low beam headlight to a CQlight HID on my 2003 LT. After reading all I could find about this on this forum, I decided to remove the tupperware, all the better to see, for easier finger fiddlin down in the bowels of the headlight assembly. There's real good tips and photos of the actual connection of the HID, but I can't find real detail on any posts about the actual removal of the nose cone. I've got both upper and lower side panels loose, all screws removed, at least all that are visible, and I'm finally at the nose cone. I've got that all loose along both sides too, except it's still tight right at the top (just under the dash panel) I just can't figure out what or where its still tight. I know many of you have been there, done that. Any tips in this regard would be most appreciated. Also, at this point, the headlight assembly is tight in the nose cone, as if that will also come out as part of the nose cone when that finally lets loose. I suppose the assembly must separate from the cone as there will be all manner of wiring attached to it, right? Thanks to any and all for any help you can give me here.
Harleyhoover

 

[RaffyK]

There are a couple of ways.

Look in the FAQ for step by step instructions.

Also, you can remove it without taking the side fairings off completely. You do still need to loosen and remove some screws. This will allow you to reach the two screws under the side fairings. Once you have these off (4 of them. 2 on each side), the rest is easy.



Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free!

 

[AlaskaFish]

There is a screw behind the map light Art. You need to take a small tweeker type screwdriver and stick it in one side of the map light to pop it out. The screw you need to remove is up high and almost impossible to see, but it is there. And it is not the phillips screw which is easy to see. That is for the instrument cover!

HTH,

John

 

[AlaskaFish]

Oops! I guess I was thinking of the "hood" that has the windshield adjusters coming up through it. That is the piece that has the screw behind the map light. The actual nose cone which holds the headlight also has a single screw right in the middle of the top which can only be gotten to after you remove the hood, which has seven screws: six you can see, and that one you cannot behind the map light!

John

 

[wacolt]

Will the access from under the nose give you enough room to do the headlight swap? Look above the front fender and you'll find the cover; remove for access to the three bulbs ('99 model).

 

[Ranger6]

Will the access from under the nose give you enough room to do the headlight swap? Look above the front fender and you'll find the cover; remove for access to the three bulbs ('99 model).

If you mean swapping to HID yes, but you won't like the outcome in the long run. The real issue is finding a suitable location to mount the ballast, the best place of course being the small "shelf" atop the headlight assembly, and in order to get to that the nose cone must come off. Don't be intimidated; just go for it and you'll be glad you did.

 

[jers99lt]

If you mean swapping to HID yes, but you won't like the outcome in the long run. The real issue is finding a suitable location to mount the ballast, the best place of course being the small "shelf" atop the headlight assembly, and in order to get to that the nose cone must come off. Don't be intimidated; just go for it and you'll be glad you did.

Something like this, but your ballasts may differ:

I used a heavy velcro from Radio Shack on the bottoms of the ballasts as they stand upright.

HTH,
Jer

 

[yechave]

FWIT, I too used the Radio Shack dual lock for my HID install, and it did not stay in place more than a couple of months this past summer. Didn't even notice it until I went to show someone how well it turned out. Not to suggest it would not work for you, but after what I went through to replace it, I would not use it.

I bought Dual Lock from the Laminar Corp, and that has stayed in place, and is all I will now use.

 

[harleyhoover]

Thank you to all for your inputs and invaluable experience that you offer. I'm on a week long business trip this week, but now I can hardly wait to get back in the garage and pull on that nose. I didn't know about the screw through the map light; that should do the trick. Every other component is loose or removed. But don't y'all go away too far; I may need you again once I get back in there with the new HID.
Harleyhoover

 

[Reid]

Jim in Renton sent me a link on nosecone removal. Following is the text provided by Mark Neblett in the HOW. Raffy's suggestion in the above post about NOT having to remove the fairings should apply and save some time.

From Mark Neblett:

Let's see if I can summarize this:

1. Remove L&R upper fairing panels (including mirrors and under mirror winglets).

2. Remove windshield -- two plastic screw covers (grab insides and pull/rotate outboard until they pop! off), then remove four 3mm Allens (don't loose rubber washers between windshield and support brackets).

3. Remove dash panel
-- pry out dash light anbd remove T25 torx screw hidden behind light
-- remove four T25s around lower periphery of dash cover
-- remove two T25s (one on each side) at top of windshield arm slots
-- lift dash cover off

4. Prepare nose for removal
-- remove headlight adjuster knob -- remove phillips screw in side of knob, pull off knob, remove hex nut under and washers behind knob (remember order and orientation of pieces for reassembly), pull headlight cable shaft back through dash panel
-- disconnect headlight plug at left rear of housing (press retaining clip in and pull off)
-- disconnect air temp sensor under headlight housing
-- pull out rubber parking light bulb holder from bottom of housing
-- remove two T25 screws from each (L&R) bottom edge of the nose fairing
-- remove two 4 mm Allen-headed mirror mounting studs from each (L&R) side of the nose fairing

5. Remove nose fairing
-- remove last T25 screw at top front center of the nose (normally hidden by the dash cover) -- HOLD/SUPPORT the nose!
-- standing directly in front of the nose, slowly draw the fairing straight forward, while helping guide the headlight adjuster cable out of its S-shaped path from dash to headlight. Remember the path for reinstallation.
-- have a soft towel read to set the fairing down on to avoid scratches

Reinstallation is the reverse of removal

 

[Ranger]

My bike recently acquired the bad ground issue on the headlight (i.e., no lights on at all, high beam light on dash constantly lit despite switch position). I am attempting to follow Mark Neblett's instructions but am stuck at the same place that got Harleyhoover. I cannot get the dash cover to separate itself from the nose cone.

I did get the small Torx screw out from behind the map light, so that's not the problem. I believe there are no more screws holding the Tupperware on. Nonetheless, these two pieces remain firmly attached. I can tell that they are secured in the middle, above the headlight assembly.

What was the ultimate solution to getting this last piece undone?

Thanks!

 

[VaBeachLT]

you have to remove the back of the dash, and then there is a single screw in the middle.There are 3 screws on top, total, holding the dash, plus the one behind the light. top separates, remove remaining screw, then nose comes off.

 

[Ranger]

you have to remove the back of the dash...

Ben,

Thanks for the quick reply. When you say the back of the dash I'm not picturing this. I have both side fairings off per Mark's instructions (even though Raffy noted this isn't necessary) and all visible screws out from around the dash and nose cone.

It's probably painfully obvious, but what am I missing?

Thanks!

 

[AlaskaFish]

There is one screw behind the map light which holds the "instrument hood" on. Once you have the hood removed you will be able to remove the final screw holding the nose cone on. Earlier posts on this thread should have already explained that, but perhaps it is difficult to grasp.

HTH,

John

 

[Florian]

You dont have to remove the tupper to put a new light in....I didnt when I did my CQ kit. There are 2 or 3 places to mount your ballast and tie into the power w/o doing anything other than laying on a creeper and looking up.


F

 

[billd]

My bike recently acquired the bad ground issue on the headlight (i.e., no lights on at all, high beam light on dash constantly lit despite switch position). I am attempting to follow Mark Neblett's instructions but am stuck at the same place that got Harleyhoover. I cannot get the dash cover to separate itself from the nose cone.

I did get the small Torx screw out from behind the map light, so that's not the problem. I believe there are no more screws holding the Tupperware on. Nonetheless, these two pieces remain firmly attached. I can tell that they are secured in the middle, above the headlight assembly.

What was the ultimate solution to getting this last piece undone?

Thanks!

You might check for the 2 screws that hold the dash top (gray) cover on that are in the slot where the windshield raise levers pass through.. they are mounted sideways and often obscured by the windshield risers. Because once you have the one under the dash light and the bunch along the bottom slot for the windshield .. the piece should just come out..!

 

[Ranger]

You might check for the 2 screws that hold the dash top (gray) cover on that are in the slot where the windshield raise levers pass through.. they are mounted sideways and often obscured by the windshield risers. Because once you have the one under the dash light and the bunch along the bottom slot for the windshield .. the piece should just come out..!

Bill,

You had the answer! The two screws behind the windshield bracket near the top were difficult to see and were in fact what was holding everything together. Once I got those removed it all came apart.

Thanks so much! Now to fix the ground wire problem that started all of this. That'll be easy by comparison to finding these last two screws!

 

[GlennM86]

you have to remove the back of the dash, and then there is a single screw in the middle.There are 3 screws on top, total, holding the dash, plus the one behind the light. top separates, remove remaining screw, then nose comes off.

Ben,

It almost sounds like you are volunteering to help me install an RCU shelf, Zumo 550, XM puck, and HID conversion.

Hmmm????