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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I belong to the rider group that is a little vertically challenged. I had trouble feeling comfortable with the stock seat, since I could only reach ground with my toes. I decided to get a Corbin Low seat, which made a nice difference. It reduced the seat height with just over an inch. Now, I can flat foot with one foot.
I would really like to lower the bike so that I can get both feet on the ground.
I remember reading a thread about replacing the shock, which would lower the bike about 1 inch, however I have not been able to find it again.
So,
What is the recommended solution to replacing the shock to a lower one?
Thanks
 

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I have the standard suspension RT and use the BMW low seat. It works good for me. I am flat footed when stopped at the light.

You can always remove the air from the tires. That will get you about three inches lower. :histerica
 

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I belong to the rider group that is a little vertically challenged. I had trouble feeling comfortable with the stock seat, since I could only reach ground with my toes. I decided to get a Corbin Low seat, which made a nice difference. It reduced the seat height with just over an inch. Now, I can flat foot with one foot.
I would really like to lower the bike so that I can get both feet on the ground.
I remember reading a thread about replacing the shock, which would lower the bike about 1 inch, however I have not been able to find it again.
So,
What is the recommended solution to replacing the shock to a lower one?
Thanks
Here is an unsolicited recommendation for Bob's Bmw in Maryland for anyone interested in lowering their bike. I had works in California build the shocks and Bob's do the install. The final step involves setting the bike up for sag with you and bags installed or how you normally ride. The ride is a little more harsh then before, but then again the old shocks had 40,000 miles on them. I road home on a variety of 2 lane highways country roads smooth and bumpy I am very pleased with the results and can almost flatfoot, I'm solidly on the balls of both feet at a stop. !! This is not cheap but I now have the perfect fit bike for me. I'm 5'7" and 29" inseam.
 

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Yours is a frequently heard problem.

If the low seat and other simple modifications to the seat-mounting hardware do not get you down to where you want to be... the remaining solution is the new or modified shocks.

Like he said, not cheap, but it is effective. I have good ride-buddies who went to Works Shocks when the time came for replacements. This usually happens at about 36k to 40k miles.

Works will modify shocks to your specifications... relative to how much lower you need. In their case the shocks were installed by a local independent shop. After some trials and set-up it was a happy and good solution for her. Replacing shocks yourself is a fairly straight-forward job and certainly within the reach of most DIY-types.

I plan to explore this option when the time comes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yours is a frequently heard problem.

Like he said, not cheap, but it is effective. I have good ride-buddies who went to Works Shocks when the time came for replacements. This usually happens at about 36k to 40k miles.

Works will modify shocks to your specifications... relative to how much lower you need. In their case the shocks were installed by a local independent shop. After some trials and set-up it was a happy and good solution for her. Replacing shocks yourself is a fairly straight-forward job and certainly within the reach of most DIY-types.

I plan to explore this option when the time comes.
It sounds like Works shocks is the way to go. I will work with them and find the right ones for me. I am planning on installing them myself.
Thanks for the pointers.
 

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It sounds like Works shocks is the way to go. I will work with them and find the right ones for me. I am planning on installing them myself.
Thanks for the pointers.
I am assuming that you realize this, but I just want to make sure you are aware that lowering the shock will effect your ride if you are an aggressive rider! What I mean is that you will be dragging your foot-pegs a lot sooner than with standard set-up.

Personally, I refuse to even consider lowered suspension of any forms, and I have 30" inseam. Just low seat is quite fine for me, even if backing up my RT is a bit of a chore. Riding experience is more important to me, but each one to his own tastes!
 

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Since you brought this topic up... I looked at the Works Shocks web page.

I see that rather than the previous "custom" short shock option they once had... they now have a "Short Shock" option that is right out of the box. It gives a 2" lower, which is good for most of us shorter guys.

The couple I know who went with them are accomplished riders who really hoon through the twisty bits... in other words there does not appear to be an issue with cornering and short shocks.

I suggest chatting with the Works sales guy... helpful... especially if you are trying to convert to short shocks and have the ESA option. My pals both elected to just not continue with the ESA since they are frequently not used in an active way.

I also recommend getting someone who really knows shock set-up after you do the parts change-out. Suspension set up is an arcane science and a significant part of motorcycling that is frequently overlooked. I personally find it so obscure I seldom attempt doing it correctly. If you really feel like it... google the subject and read till your eyes bleed and your ears hurt.

You have your dampening setting, your rebound setting and your preload setting. I will leave it to those who have more knowledge than I do to coach us...
 

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If you go with a shorter rear shock you will want to lower the front shock too. At that point you will also need to decide when (not if) you want to replace the center and side stands with shorter units. Not cheap but then you will have a bike that fits you like a glove and rides 100% better than stock. About $1800 if you do it yourself. It is not hard to do if you have a garage, some hand tools, etc. Only go 1 inch lower max.

I went with Ted Porter at the Beemershop in CA. Yacugar steel body shocks, fully adjustable and rebuildable, 5 year warranty.
 

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If you go with a shorter rear shock you will want to lower the front shock too. At that point you will also need to decide when (not if) you want to replace the center and side stands with shorter units. Not cheap but then you will have a bike that fits you like a glove and rides 100% better than stock. About $1800 if you do it yourself. It is not hard to do if you have a garage, some hand tools, etc. Only go 1 inch lower max.

I went with Ted Porter at the Beemershop in CA. Yacugar steel body shocks, fully adjustable and rebuildable, 5 year warranty.
Yes I did both front & rear shocks the people at works have this all worked out. So give them a call and get the info right from the horses mouth.
 

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I am also a happy rider that called Ted Porter---sent him my weight measurements/riding styles/etc and he sent me a fine set of Wilber's that lowered my '05 RT by 25mm (1") and were set exactly for my measurements. I have a friend that is a machinist modify my center/side stand and it is a perfect setup for my 30" inseam. I ride fairly hard and have experienced no problem with ground clearance. I believe it was ~$1400 for the set and fully rebuildable. 2 years old and close to 40K and still feel brand new. If you have to purchase the BMW lowered center stand, you're looking at another $380 if memory serves me well. The side stand can easily be cut down.
Ray in VA
 

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Another very happy Ted Porter customer (BeemerShop in Scott's Valley, CA). I didn't need my saddle height changed when I had him get me new Wilbers but I had that option, he asked. I'm now about 17K miles on the new struts, still very pleased. He supplied the struts and did the ESA changeover, I installed, ~$1,400.

JayJay
 

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Ted set me up with a set of Yacugar shocks and I've been very pleased with them. I only lowered mine 20 mm, which was enough for me to need the shorter side & center stand.

The low suspension, low Sargent seat and lowered pegs make for a comfortable ride. However, if I was doing it over again I think I'd go with standard-height seat, stock peg position and shorter shocks. The peg lowering kit not only moves them down and forward, but significantly outward. They scrape like crazy.
 

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I did the Hyperpro 1 inch lowering springs put on the original ESA shocks, that I ordered from EPM Performance. A lot lower cost then completely new shocks. Had them installed by my BMW dealer. I'm not flat footing, but it made a huge difference in moving the bike around while on it, although when stopped at incline, I still have to hold the brake. I've not yet lowered the side or center stand, but I do have to be mindful when parking with th direction of any inline. It still will lean, on the side stand, just not as far, and it makes it slightly more of a chore to get the bike on the center stand, but on the upside, when it's on the side stand, I don't have as far to lift it straight to ride.
 

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I've dropped my 4 times in 1 year. I am 5'8". Had to replace tail light and front brake lever and cylinder.
Please suggest a lowered seat that is comfortable. I love this bike on the mountains and highways but I'm 69 and even though I can get this bike up when I drop it, I have to stop dropping it.
 

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I've dropped my 4 times in 1 year. I am 5'8". Had to replace tail light and front brake lever and cylinder.
Please suggest a lowered seat that is comfortable. I love this bike on the mountains and highways but I'm 69 and even though I can get this bike up when I drop it, I have to stop dropping it.
You need to be more specific. Height is irrelevant, inseam is more important. What year is your bike? How long have you had it? How long have you been riding?

I'm 55, 5'6" with a 29" inseam. I dropped it once last year. At the rally. While doing a low speed obstacle course.
 

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My solution and I can test ride many bikes with this solution. You don't need to mess with your suspension and you can ride a normal seat and not a lowered seat which will have the padding removed to lower it.
"I....wanna rock n' roll all niiiiight....and party ev-er-y-day!" :)
 

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I believe the easiest way to make a bike sit lower is to gain a lot of weight. Been working for me for years. :)
 

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My solution and I can test ride many bikes with this solution. You don't need to mess with your suspension and you can ride a normal seat and not a lowered seat which will have the padding removed to lower it.
Hey, I didn't know Gene Simmons rode an RT. Welcome on board, Gene!

:yeah:
 
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