BMW Luxury Touring Community banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
634 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
what is the method most of you used to jumper the pins on the 12 pin plug ?

when disabling the alarm/immobilizer?

can I just cut wires 3 and 11 off the back of the plug them join them?

(10 AND 6 also)

seems like the easiest way.... rather than trying to jimmy jangle a jumper wire.....

thanks for any help. 2002 K1200LT by the way...
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
634 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well looky there....
and soon as I created this thread.... I look down and see "similar threads"

and there is the answer...


couldn't find it when I did a search.... oh well...

back to the garage to clip some wires... :rotf:



and I reckon I will file this thing....
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,334 Posts
This is something I need to do too. I never use the alarm anyway as I hate messing with the fob to shut it off. And having to reset it after a battery disconnect.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Patric

·
Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
Joined
·
14,916 Posts
One thing I have done on a few bikes is to leave it all hooked up but take the "jumpered wires" and strip back the insulation and solder a wire to each one. Then the other end of those wires goes to a DPDT switch such that when the switch is thrown it "jumpers" the connections. This way you have normal operation until such time the alarm "fails". Then you go to the hidden location for this switch and throw it to bypass the alarm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
634 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Razmataz said:
This is something I need to do too. I never use the alarm anyway as I hate messing with the fob to shut it off. And having to reset it after a battery disconnect.
Yeah,
I've been procrastinating for a few years myself.

after you get the top case off, it's a piece of cake.

the only thing that slowed me down was the wire coloring.... they must have changed the wire colors over the years... on my 2002, #11 was black/yellow not blue yellow as shown in a couple other threads...

I unplugged the 3 plugs and removed the entire alarm.. 2 or 3 Phillips screws and it comes out.

I clipped and joined wire 3&11 and 10&6 I twisted them together and shink wrapped them... then electrical taped it all up and zip tied it to the frame rail.

The bike fired right up. :thumb:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
634 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
jzeiler said:
One thing I have done on a few bikes is to leave it all hooked up but take the "jumpered wires" and strip back the insulation and solder a wire to each one. Then the other end of those wires goes to a DPDT switch such that when the switch is thrown it "jumpers" the connections. This way you have normal operation until such time the alarm "fails". Then you go to the hidden location for this switch and throw it to bypass the alarm.
wow.

thats too high tech for this old boy...:rotf:

but thanks john.. near every post I searched had your help. very cool :thumb:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
475 Posts
Jzeiler helped me last year when I lost my Fob. I jumpered the wire, as he mentioned, and left it that way. Couple months later I found the Fob. I just don't use the security system anymore. Not too afraid of it being stolen.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
06-25-2017, Another alarm system bites the dust! Just moved to LAX area a few weeks back and while taking my first ride up the coast I stopped at Malibu Seafood and had a late lunch with my wife. After eating lunch we walk across the street to only fined the motorcycle was totally dead other than that dreadful red light on the dash. I tried using the manual deactivation (done one in the past successfully) process with the key switch and code but was unsuccessful. I caught an uber to the closest BMW dealership and purchased a new battery. New battery did not help, therefore we got a tow truck ride back to Redondo Beach.

Today, I was successful in removing the total alarm system using the advise of this site. I jumped, or cut and spliced, wires (3 & 11), and (10, 06 and 2) on my 2007 model. Started right up without hesitation.

Thanks for everyone's help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
I'm wanting to disable the entire security system on my 2003 1200LT.

Everyone talks about the "alarm system", "alarm" or "alarm/immobilizer". Is there some difference between the "security system" (as I've "learned" to understand it) and the terms above.

1. Are we talking about the system that controls starting and sounds the alarm if the bike's fob isn't used?
2. Does cutting/rewiring the wires disable the entire "security system"? Or does it disable only the alarm function?
3. Cutting/rewiring the wires consists of cutting the wires going to pins 3 & 11, and 10 & 6 on some 12 pin connector and then soldering each of the wires in each pair together. Yes?
You solder together the wires going back into the wiring harness not ones poking out of the connector. Right?
Then leave the 4 poking back out of the connector waving in the breeze after insulating the ends?
4. Another thread says that 3 connectors on the box must be disconnected...a 3 pin, a 4 pin and the 12 pin. When finished soldering, do you plug all the connectors back in place? Why disconnect the other two?
5. Am I right in thinking that, in normal operation, the fob signal sets 2 relays closed in the control box and they connect pin 3 to pin 11 and pin 6 to pin 10?
If you use the double pole/double throw switch mentioned before, you can, according to switch position, get "normal" system functionality as well capability for system bypass...no security system; start the bike with a key only, no fob required. Correct?
And that means all the connectors have to be connected to the box, yes?
6. JohnT posted a pic of something that looks like the horn...sort of. Is this the box we have been talking about? I can't find anything on my bike that looks like a "control" box. I haven't been looking for a horn, though.
 

·
Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
Joined
·
14,916 Posts
OK the alarm and security system are all the same thing. The alarm has an immobilizer in it that interrupts the engine electronics relay an and disables the starter connection. Jumping those two pairs should be done on the bike side of the 12 pin. For your year there is a three pin that provides, unswitched and switched power to the alarm. Often when the alarm goes bad it shorts out the power and blows the fuse (F3) that also goes to the horn and brake lights. This is the reason most will bypass the alarm.

The alarm is located under the top case and the 12 pin is right next to it.

Basic bypass to totally remove the alarm, cut the 12 pin connector off the alarm and do the jumping on the pig tail and plug it back it while tossing the rest of the alarm.

Or you can run a switch to the two pairs of wires and leave everything still plugged in so when your alarm does fail you just throw the switch. You still may have to undo the three pin if the alarm is blowing the fuse when it fails so you can get your horn and brake light back.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
OK, yeah. I think this is what I'm talking about!
Man, that is NOT what I thought I'd find. And, I guess it's because I've been down there before. I've had the trunk off but I get the impression this is somewhere below the trunk?
And the actual "box", ain't so much, is it? Looks like it's got pigtails coming off it instead of sort of mounted sockets?
I gotta say, the Clymer manual schematic don't look nuthin like anything y'all been talking about. It only shows 2 connectors...an 8 position and a 12. And it didn't help that I'd never actually been down far enough into it to actually see the thing.
OK! Tomorrow I dive back in! Oh, and BTW, I see that you are up in Hazel Green. Bit of a coincidence...I'm over at Gurley on top of KBGM. I guess I need to upgrade my info here on the site.
Many thanks!! I never thought I'd get an answer so fast. Thanks again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
I got started late and believe I've run into what at least a misunderstanding on my part. Worst case, it's a different model to whatever else I've seen here.

I've uploaded three pix as pdf files...don't ask, it was the only easy way I could see. I'll find out the right way and do it right from now on, I promise.

The first one shows the alarm part data. I ain't got a clue but maybe someone can cross it to some design version description or something.

The second shows the pigtails hanging off the alarm. The connectors certainly don't, as far as I understand what's been said, match jzeiler's photo and description. My pic shows 12 position and an 8 position connectors...no 3 position power connector.

This, BTW, is mirrored by my Clymer manual which doesn't have many pin matches to what I've understood to be the functions described thus far.

For instance, Clymer shows pin 3 of the 12 position connector as going to the Programming Plug and pin 11 going to the Reversing Relay. 10, 6 and 2 go, respectively, to the Emergency Off Relay, Engine Electronics Relay and the Flasher.

I certainly don't put godly confidence in Clymer but something doesn't seem right. As an aside, the Clymer says this particular schematic covers years 2001-2005.

The last pic shows the "hole" after I removed the alarm. Note the rectangular connectors on the left and right where the pigtails connect. Note also that there's a white 3 pin connector but it doesn't any have connection to the alarm which is not even there.

So, my faithful comrades, whassup? Am I Pius Thicknesse and just still don't have a clue?

Well, I guess that'd still be the case no matter what, wouldn't it?
 

Attachments

·
Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
Joined
·
14,916 Posts
OK the 12 pin is circled in red, the power pin (which looks like the PO has modified it for some reason) is circled in blue. The other one is the connection for the motion sensor to the alarm.

Here are the instruction for the jumpers:

To get the bike running again you need to jumper the following pins on the 12 pin connector. Pin 3 (black/white/yellow) to pin 11 (black/yellow); this is the starter button signal to the starter relay. Then jumper pin 10 (green/violet, switched power) to pin 6 (blue/violet, engine electronics relay).

Pin 3 can be confusing since the starter signal goes through the reverser switch and the reverse controller. Just jump as directed as I have done this to at least 15 bikes over the last 13 years.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
47 Posts
This is a very helpful thread. I will do this as I go over my new ride. Only question: from the pictures this looks like it is under the rear seat or trunk?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
OK, jzeiler...you can call it 16 successful mods and many, many thanks for sticking with me when I may well have seemed to be being obtuse. I promise I wasn't...I'm just considered dense by those who know me but love me anyway.

Apologies for any frustration I may have caused...it's never a good thing to be thought difficult when one is asking for help.

And help I did get!!! Thanks again. Just one last question though, before I drop the subject entirely (I promise); In your final reply (post #13 at 2:26), you circled that black and white connector in blue. With the alarm completely removed and jumpers installed as you described, my bike starts and runs normally whether that connector is connected or open (it's open now). In this configuration, should that connector be connected or disconnected? Oh, and as an aside, I cut the fingers out of a latex glove and fitted them over the left-over open connectors...seemed like a good move.

And just because I was the early bird, I get to try to help oly223cal. I find that I'm newly qualified to answer this one question...maybe.

All of this stuff is located under the trunk. Take off the trunk and there's a flat plastic, horizontal splash shield or dust barrier (that, if so, is no barrier to dust at all).

Four bolts vertically into the frame ( one of mine REALLY wanted to go back in crooked) and one torx screw at the end of each of the long arms of the shield sticking forward.

I read somewhere that you can gain some pillion rider room by selecting different bolt holes for the shield and, thus, the trunk when re-attaching the trunk but I don't remember which way/holes, etc. Maybe someone else will know. Obviously, I haven't tried it so I don't even know if it's really a thing or not.
 

·
Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
Joined
·
14,916 Posts
No problem, That one should have been the power to the alarm but you have removed the alarm and that is still there. Guess some are just different. If there is no issue with it plugged in I would just leave it.

Yes there are two sets of holes. Move the short bolts to the forward holes and then install the top case with the long bolts in the rear holes. It will gain you about an inch. I made some custom bars for mine and had to cut the plastic a bit but I got it back a full two inches for my pillion.

I have added pics about the custom bars I made.
 

Attachments

1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top