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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My $13 Oil Change...vs. $65 Oil Change From A Dealer

Yesterday the weather was a balmy 37 degrees in the Philadelphia area. And as the riding season closes, I thought what the heck; let’s change the oil in the LT (light-truck). I then headed down to my local Wal-Mart to buy 4 quarts of 20W-50 and an oil filter. The total cost was a whopping $13. The oil filter, as you can see by the pictures attached, is Wally World’s ST3614 (I kept the label on for the picture but take it off before putting it on your engine). The filter was $2.84. I have been using the identical filters in my two Lexus LS400s, one LS430 and one Tundra for the last 10 years. The picture compares the last oil filter I purchased online from Motorcycle Superstore. They are close to being identical.

Now A Little About Wally World's Oil

When it came to buying the oil, I decided on Wally World’s 20W-50 oil at $2.43 a quart vs. Castrol’s 20W-50 as it was $3.47 a quart. OK, OK bash me for saving $4 on the oil, but really, is there really going to be any significant differences between the two oils if you are rotating the oil out every 3,000 to 4,000 miles - nothing your engine is going to notice. BTW, I used this same oil for my last oil change and the bike did not burn one ounce of oil. Again, I have been using Wally World’s oil for 10+ years.

From a timing standpoint, plan on spending 25 minutes to do the change in total. Here are the steps for the newbies out there:

1. Put the bike on the center stand.
2. Unscrew the oil plug filler cap on the right side (rear brake side) of the bike.
3. Take a 10MM wrench and take off the two back nuts to the skid plate.
4. Get a torx bit to take off the two from bolts on the skid plate.
5. Get a 8MM (check this size as I could be wrong) hex bit to unscrew the oil plug (place a newspaper beneath the oil pan to protect floor against some oil splatter).
6. Take a few sips of coffee and let the oil drain completely.
7. Unscrew the three bolts holding the oil filter cover (take the one out on the left/shifter side first) and then the remaining two.
8. Place the oil filter end cap wrench on your 3/8” socket wrench extension and then place it under the oil filter (there is a good chance you will need a different size end cap wrench to unscrew the oil filter that is currently on the bike). Unscrew the filter.
9. Reverse the process (you may want to use a new washer on the plug).

•If you are using a Wally World filter, TAKE THE LABEL OFF.
•HINT: When you put the oil filter cover back on, the fins go front to back.
•Get an 18” plastic hose and attach it to a funnel and fill the engine with 4 quarts of oil.


Two things I want to share with you on the Wally World brand:

1. Their filters seem to pass the smell test on performance. Here is a link on someone taking apart a Wal-Mart filter. http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r20429981-Tech-REVIEW-WalMart-Branded-Supertech-Oil-Filters
2.Their oil is made one of the major players with Shell being the name of choice from what I could tell from my online research.

The Bottom-Line: This past riding season I rode 3,000 miles on my LT. When I dropped the oil and oil filter yesterday, I dipped my fingers in the oil to retrieve my oil plug and it still had that slick feel to it. Quite honestly, the oil didn’t need to be replaced but since the LT will be sitting for four months, it was the right thing to do.

BTW, I am more concerned about the damn final drive than what type of oil my engine uses.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Yes, very valid comment. I never thought of that: Here is a link to K&N's k1200LT oil filter line. You will notice they all have some level of paint on the outside: http://www.knfilters.com/oil_filter/bmw_k1200lt.aspx

But let me ask you, how much hotter does the outside of a filter get with oil around it vs. being on the outside of an engine? My gut is telling me that the paint being used on any oil filter can withstand the heat since I have never had the paint peel off off a Wally World oil filter. BTW, I will post pictures next year when I do my next oil change.
 

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deanwoolsey said:
Personally I would never use a painted filter in the LT for fear of the paint peeling off inside the crank-case.
If it does peel off it will go thru the oil filter before it goes thru the engine. That is why the filter is there in the first place. The oil contaminated or not from the crankcase goes thru the oil filter before it gets into any of the oil galleys :check: .
 

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Thought there was some kind of by-pass valve in the OEM BMW/Bosch filters that may not be on private label, commodity units.
 

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PMitchell said:
Thought there was some kind of by-pass valve in the OEM BMW/Bosch filters that may not be on private label, commodity units.
By-Pass valves only open when the filter becomes so plugged up that it can't pass enough oil thru them. There is not near enough paint on the outside of the filter to plug up the inside of the filter. If the filter has no By-Pass valve and gets plugged up the oil pressure will drop. With a By-Pass valve when the filter gets plugged up the valve opens allowing the oil to flow & keep oil pressure. If the By-Pass opens some or all the contaminated oil can flow thru the engine.
 

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I believe that the color coating on painted filters is either powder coating or baked on. Many vehicles, like my truck, have their filter in close proximity to a BIG cast iron exhaust manifold. The painted filter finish holds up well under exposure to manifold heat. I suspect exhaust manifold heat is much hotter then the heat applied to a filter in an oil bath.

The idea that oil will cause the panted finish to come off an oil filter sounds a bit like an oxymoron...oil harming an oil filter, wouldn't you expressly choose a finish that was impervious to oil as the outside of an oil filter is from time to time exposed some to oil?
 

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Being from South Jersey myself, I have to say that I have never had a problem with the Walmart Supertech filters and oil. I have used them in K100s and my current LT for many years. I just wish Supertech would make a final drive, trunk latch and shifter linkage. Like I always say in these posts, please let me know if anyone out there has had a documented oil or filter related failure in a K bike. I never have worried or bothered about the label on the filter myself, but I guess taking it off couldn't hurt.
 

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PMitchell said:
Thought there was some kind of by-pass valve in the OEM BMW/Bosch filters that may not be on private label, commodity units.
Any oil filter meeting OEM spec will have a bypass valve.
Not every oil filter has an anti-drainback valve. However, since the filter sits upright and not sideways or inverted in the LT, that is not a concern.
 

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this is old news but you also might want to check your owners manual to see if the wally world oil meets the API grade required by your engine.

when the API - SJ standard was released, BMW did not certify it for the brick motors, as the added wear metals -- phosphorous, magnesium, zinc and calcium -- had been reduced to levels that BM felt were less than what the motor required. lower wear metals can lead to issues with cam faces and other wear surfaces in the motor.

BMW's own oils are manfacured to the older standard.

i'm perfectly aware that the company could have a conflict of interest in this regard. and i'm as cheap a b****** as the next guy.

but not so cheap as to save 15$ on an oil change and then roast one of these beautiful motors.

YMMV
 

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Supertech is good for SM, SL, SJ and SH. Been using it for years and the Manual for my LT calls for any oil that meets SF, SG or SH. We can quibble about who likes what better, but the supertech meets the specs in the manual. I understand the sentiment of not wanting to buy cheap stuff for something we love so much, but I try to restrict that sentiment to living, breathing family members.
 

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Here is a better option! :D
 

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I agree with Zippy, no need to touch the oil drain bolt as the oil filter cover expells all of the oil when you get at the filter.

In so far as colored filters, Beemerboneyard come in black...

Mugz
 

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rkimmel2 said:
Supertech is good for SM, SL, SJ and SH. Been using it for years and the Manual for my LT calls for any oil that meets SF, SG or SH. We can quibble about who likes what better, but the supertech meets the specs in the manual. I understand the sentiment of not wanting to buy cheap stuff for something we love so much, but I try to restrict that sentiment to living, breathing family members.
That is the problem. I believe that BMW specifically warns agains oils with ratings later than SH. If you oil meets SJ or later ratings, then it does NOT meet the requirements set forth by BMW.
 

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You make a point, but when API says or, that means it meets the standard set in the manual. I guess if you really think that an oil related failure is even a remote possibility on an LT it could pay to be super cautious and attempt to figure out what BMW really means rather than what it says in the owner's manual.

Kind of sadly, most folks with a motorcycle barely put on enough miles to even break it in, let alone wear out an engine. How often do you see a BMW let alone other brand for sale used with high miles?
 

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deanwoolsey said:
Personally I would never use a painted filter in the LT for fear of the paint peeling off inside the crank-case.
Did you know that the inside of the crankcase is... (oh no) painted????
 

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jzeiler said:
Did you know that the inside of the crankcase is... (oh no) painted????
Tell me its not true. Using those arguments about filters and oil ratings would consign us to never using other than overpriced BMW products and antiquated circa 1997 quality motor oils. If Ford, Honda or any car maker tried a stunt like that, they could not sell their products in the American Market. Goodness, what are all those folks who swear by that oil we never name on this site going to do when they find out that it does not meet "BMW requirement" because it has an SL rating besides SH. Forget about all of those who use Mobil 1 or other quality brands! They need to either buy from the dealer or go to some old time oil outlet store to find an SH only rated oil. What do you think are the chances that BMW oil comes out of the same spigot as the other good oils and they simply put SH only on the label in an attempt to sell overpriced, rebadged Castrol or some such?
 

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I've used the Fram oil filter with the "Sure Grip" grit and had 0 problems. If that grit doesn't come off, then I'm not worried about a little paint! :dance:
 

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