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When you say valve job, are you talking head removed valves replaced and reseated. Or, you talking valve check and adjustment?
 

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1dirtygs said:
Check and adjust sorry i was not clear
I paid $245 for the 36k; no valve buckets changed but I brought her naked. Saved 2-hrs of labor on tupperware r&r.
 

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wacolt said:
I paid $245 for the 36k; no valve buckets changed but I brought her naked. Saved 2-hrs of labor on tupperware r&r.
thats a great Idea.....:bmw:
 

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2011 R1200RT
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woodey said:
thats a great Idea.....:bmw:
The problem is that you cannot ride her like that, with no mirrors and no turn signals...
I have learned to do my own maintenance, save $$$, have tech sessions and help friends save $$$
 

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zippy_gg said:
The problem is that you cannot ride her like that, with no mirrors and no turn signals...
I have learned to do my own maintenance, save $$$, have tech sessions and help friends save $$$
+1 also if you have friends with buckets the service is almost free. You gota feed and water the folks ya know. :D
 

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zippy_gg said:
The problem is that you cannot ride her like that, with no mirrors and no turn signals...
I have learned to do my own maintenance, save $$$, have tech sessions and help friends save $$$
Given my active lifestyle (work, work, and more work; not to mention work on the side), alas, I'm only a promiser of tech session attendance. :(

Admittedly, she ain't purddy when she's nekid but:

mirrors do install with the fairings off
amber signal bulbs and wiring spot tie to structure.
 

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Since we're talking shim buckets, wondered if anyone has ever tried this: have a toyota with a shot engine. Was tinkering with the buckets after a valve job (grinding). After the valve job, several of the buckets were too tight. I took a dremel tool and ground down the shim inside the bucket, and made them fit. Learned that the shim is solid all the way through, so no problems. Only concern would be that I didn't get the surface perfectly flat, but that should only result, long term, in increased gap. It seemed to work, and the engine fired right up and ran smoothly (other problems however).
 

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fpmlt said:
Since we're talking shim buckets, wondered if anyone has ever tried this: have a toyota with a shot engine. Was tinkering with the buckets after a valve job (grinding). After the valve job, several of the buckets were too tight. I took a dremel tool and ground down the shim inside the bucket, and made them fit. Learned that the shim is solid all the way through, so no problems. Only concern would be that I didn't get the surface perfectly flat, but that should only result, long term, in increased gap. It seemed to work, and the engine fired right up and ran smoothly (other problems however).
Well, I wouldn't do it with a Dremel tool but properly machined it should work within limits. I question the wisdom though. In almost all cases where I have done mine or helped with others it has been possible to limit replacement buckets to 2 or 3 by moving them around to different locations. Many dealers will swap unmodified buckets at no or reduced cost. It seems like a lot of effort to set up a milling machine for every valve adjust and end up with buckets no one would swap later.
 

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I have a little Yamaha 650 Maxim that is a gas to ride. It is very sensitive to valve clearance and they are supposed to be checked q 6000 miles. It also uses the shim and bucket valve train. There are several members of the XJBIKES forum who have a collection of shims that they loan out in order to verify that the measured and calculated shim is correct before the new shim is ordered. The consensus on the forum is that shims are never re-used. If a shim needs to be replaced then a new one is purchased, This is due to the various wear patterns between the cam lobe and the shim. Each interface is likely to be different even from one valve to another on the same bike. This seems to make sense to me.

The other wisdom is to not use a magnetic instrument to remove a shim from the bucket as you will magnetize the shim which will collect any ferrous bits floating in the oil and place them between the shim and the cam lo9be which is one of the highest pressure points in the engine. This too makes sense even though the factory manual says to use a magnetic tool to remove the shims.

As far as grinding down a shim with a Dremel tool to the appropriate thickness? I would think this would be VERY BAD form. The shims are likely to be surface hardened to match the hardness of the cam lobes. Removing material from the shim would cause it to wear very quickly. Also, there would be no way to get a smooth surface that is consistent across the face of the shim. It would seem imprudent to put a surface that is not perfectly machined against a very expensive cam shaft.

Now then, what is the dealer price for a replacement shim?

Loren
 
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