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Discussion Starter #1
I am replacing my seats and passenger seat back on a 2005 LT with heated seats. The seat back is also heated and in order to unplug it I need to remove the speaker covers (or armrest) that is attached to the trunk.

I have located the fasteners. They appear to be some type of rivets rather than screws. Am I looking at the wrong fasteners, or is this an unusual situation?
 

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They are either torx or bristol wrenches not rivets. They screw out and back in. Did that when I replaced the matching pillion and back rest for the Rick Mayer seat.
 

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Lots and lots of small little torx screws . . .

Be sure to keep track of which screws came from which holes. Some of them are shorter (where the speaker cover is thinnest).
 

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meese said:
Lots and lots of small little torx screws . . .

Be sure to keep track of which screws came from which holes. Some of them are shorter (where the speaker cover is thinnest).
I just remove the 5 or 6 closest to the seat back if all I need to do is get to the heated seat plug. You can pull the speak cover out far enough to get to the plug. Saves a little time.
 

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Mike_H said:
I am replacing my seats and passenger seat back on a 2005 LT with heated seats. The seat back is also heated and in order to unplug it I need to remove the speaker covers (or armrest) that is attached to the trunk.

I have located the fasteners. They appear to be some type of rivets rather than screws. Am I looking at the wrong fasteners, or is this an unusual situation?
In addition to the 49,000 screws inside the trunk lid, there is one under the bottom edge of the speaker housing (*outside* of the trunk). It is a pita to remove -- on my LTs, I couldn't fit my bit and socket wrench under the screw (not enough room above the saddlebag) Open the saddlebag to get the lid out of the way, use your finger to hold the Torx bit up in the screw head, and use a 1/4" wrench to turn the bit from the side.

IIRC, the speaker cover screws are T20 Torx screws, not the T-25 Torx that virtually every other tupperware screw on the bike is (whatz up with that, BMW?!).

Note when reinstalling: Tighten until snug, but don't ham-fist them -- thet are large-pitch threads (like sheet metal screws) going into soft plastic -- it doesn't take much torque to strip them out. Besides, there's no need to apply much torque -- there's a sticky tar-like sealant that tends to keep the screws from backing out.

HTH!
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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Mark,


Its good to see you posting again. Has work lightend up a bit?

Mike,

If you do end up stipping out a few don't fret. Just put a little dab of JB weld in the hole, oil the screw and put it most of the way in and let sit overnight. Then just snug them up a bit. Works great but better to do as Mark said and not mess it up in the first place.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks guys, They were T-20s. This little exercise reminded me that I need an eye exam and updated lenses. I couldn't make out that they were torx heads even with eyes set to full squint.
 
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