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Discussion Starter #1
is there a description for the procedure to change a relay on a 2008 K1200lt. If power is brought directly to the stand it works so I am guessing the relay is done
 

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2005 K1200LT
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Not necessarily. Do you get a symbol on the LCD dash when you press the button? It may be an interlock. How long have you had the bike and have you used the stand before this happened? Trying to get a base line of where you are. But the relay is mounted behind the battery down low. It is a plug in relay so you just pull it out. I haven't seen one go bad yet so that is why I asked the questions.

The bike has to be in neutral, side stand up and brakes released or it will not deploy.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
We have had the bike only a few months. The previous owner suggested that the relay was a problem. I suppose I should test things a bit more before I start into a disassembly. Thanks for the heads up on the problem. It is the wife's bike so I have very little time on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So I went out and fired it up and sure enough there is a flashing light on the dash when the center stand button is pressed.
 

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2005 K1200LT
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OK. Did you have bike in neutral, side stand up and brakes released when you tried this? Also the bike needs to be vertical, i.e. you need to be sitting on it.

Normally a "quick" flashing light means one of the interlocks is not met. The relay being bad would not cause any indication since it is not monitored by the controller.

A "slow" flash just means the controller "thinks" it is operating the actuator and either the relay is bad or the motor on the actuator is bad.

This is not uncommon as there can be corrosion inside the electric motor on the brush ground screw. This will prevent the motor from running. Also down on the right side there is a big, black, two pin connector that is for the actuator, make sure it is seated (has a big red and big brown wire from the relay).

I have seen many motors go bad but no relays so far. So my money is on the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
OK. Did you have bike in neutral, side stand up and brakes released when you tried this? Also the bike needs to be vertical, i.e. you need to be sitting on it.

Normally a "quick" flashing light means one of the interlocks is not met. The relay being bad would not cause any indication since it is not monitored by the controller.

A "slow" flash just means the controller "thinks" it is operating the actuator and either the relay is bad or the motor on the actuator is bad.

This is not uncommon as there can be corrosion inside the electric motor on the brush ground screw. This will prevent the motor from running. Also down on the right side there is a big, black, two pin connector that is for the actuator, make sure it is seated (has a big red and big brown wire from the relay).

I have seen many motors go bad but no relays so far. So my money is on the motor.

I have been reading about this on another forum and have seen your name there John. The break light seems to be a problem with this center stand system. Soooo I noticed when i turned the bike on the brake indicator was flashing. What could that mean and is it connected to my problem. I have the bike on my motorcycle stand so it is vertical ,in neutral and the side stand is up. John
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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No, the flashing brake warnings are OK. This system does two self tests one right after key on, and the lights flash very fast. This is the internal self test and no brakes can be applied or it will not complete. Once it finishes it goes to a slow flash and remains on until you roll a few feet when it tests the ABS wheel sensors. Then the lights normally go out if all is OK. This does not affect the EHCS.

You can test whether it is the relay or the motor by unplugging the connector and applying 12 volts to the plug. Look here for a good video on how to get to the plug and also removal of the unit. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ey7siMk-XSs

When you apply 12 volts you should hear the motor run on the actuator, if you don't then the motor is shot or has internal corrosion. Good news is the motors are actually Honda Scooter starters and are available on e-bay for $20 - 45 new. Search on "New Starter For Honda Scooter Elite CH80".

Note: For this test it does not matter the polarity as you are just seeing if the motor runs. If it runs backwards there is no damage it just will not lift the bike.
 

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Check if your brake lights are working.
Also check if there’s no LED bulb installed.
I had that problem until I remembered I installed a led light.
I bought the controller. But didn’t need it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I put a tester on the plug from the switch and it shows 12 volts when the button is pushed. I put power to the motor directly and nothing. I took the motor off and apart and yes it is corroded. Will begin the search for the replacement. Thanks folks and especially you John. I'll let you know how I make out.
 

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Have a good look at ebay because there are a few sellers with very differing prices.... for both the part and shipping.
eg I could get this sent to Australia for about AU$60 (about $US40)
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-Starter-for-Honda-Elite-80cc-80-CH80-Scooter-1993-2007-/162551253817
so you should be able to get one for under $70...
good luck!

AND... be careful when you bolt it back together, don't put the longer of the 2 bolts into the wrong hole as you'll damage the plastic gear that makes it work!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Have a good look at ebay because there are a few sellers with very differing prices.... for both the part and shipping.
eg I could get this sent to Australia for about AU$60 (about $US40)
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-Starter-for-Honda-Elite-80cc-80-CH80-Scooter-1993-2007-/162551253817
so you should be able to get one for under $70...
good luck!

AND... be careful when you bolt it back together, don't put the longer of the 2 bolts into the wrong hole as you'll damage the plastic gear that makes it work!
Oops didn't notice the difference in length when I removed the motor. Is the long screw through the ground wire or the other side?
 

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2005 K1200LT
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If it was just corrosion you can clean up the ground screw on the brush. That is if there were any brush material left.

The long screw goes where you can see all the way through the hole. The short one had the ground lug.

Slice the shrink covering to access the 7 mm bolt when you pull the harness off. Best to replace with some heat shrink or a really good tape job to prevent corrosion.
 

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If it was just corrosion you can clean up the ground screw on the brush. That is if there were any brush material left.

The long screw goes where you can see all the way through the hole. The short one had the ground lug.

Slice the shrink covering to access the 7 mm bolt when you pull the harness off. Best to replace with some heat shrink or a really good tape job to prevent corrosion.
I generally also apply dielectric grease to all such connections and to wires underneath heat shrink. It is very hard to get a weathertight seal with standard electrical tape. Now if you get the self-fusing type, that stuff is pretty impressive, but it is thick and bulky and can be a pain to work with. I use it for underground splices in cables and it holds pretty well.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/Scotch-Self-Fusing-Silicone-Rubber-Electrical-Tape-70/?N=5002385+3292437112&rt=rud

Dielectric grease protected and held in place by properly sized shrink tubing is pretty easy to work with and hard to beat for all but the toughest applications.
 

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2005 K1200LT
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Good points Matt, I use a bit of environmental heat shrink that has a coating on the inside that melts and flows during the shrink process. It is what they used from the factory. Works really well but most people don't have access to it.
 

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Good points Matt, I use a bit of environmental heat shrink that has a coating on the inside that melts and flows during the shrink process. It is what they used from the factory. Works really well but most people don't have access to it.
Yes, my combination of dielectric grease under standard heat shrink is a poor man’s version of the “industrial” heat shrink that you are using. :grin:
 
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