OK. Did you have bike in neutral, side stand up and brakes released when you tried this? Also the bike needs to be vertical, i.e. you need to be sitting on it.
Normally a "quick" flashing light means one of the interlocks is not met. The relay being bad would not cause any indication since it is not monitored by the controller.
A "slow" flash just means the controller "thinks" it is operating the actuator and either the relay is bad or the motor on the actuator is bad.
This is not uncommon as there can be corrosion inside the electric motor on the brush ground screw. This will prevent the motor from running. Also down on the right side there is a big, black, two pin connector that is for the actuator, make sure it is seated (has a big red and big brown wire from the relay).
I have seen many motors go bad but no relays so far. So my money is on the motor.
Oops didn't notice the difference in length when I removed the motor. Is the long screw through the ground wire or the other side?Have a good look at ebay because there are a few sellers with very differing prices.... for both the part and shipping.
eg I could get this sent to Australia for about AU$60 (about $US40)
so you should be able to get one for under $70...
AND... be careful when you bolt it back together, don't put the longer of the 2 bolts into the wrong hole as you'll damage the plastic gear that makes it work!
I generally also apply dielectric grease to all such connections and to wires underneath heat shrink. It is very hard to get a weathertight seal with standard electrical tape. Now if you get the self-fusing type, that stuff is pretty impressive, but it is thick and bulky and can be a pain to work with. I use it for underground splices in cables and it holds pretty well.If it was just corrosion you can clean up the ground screw on the brush. That is if there were any brush material left.
The long screw goes where you can see all the way through the hole. The short one had the ground lug.
Slice the shrink covering to access the 7 mm bolt when you pull the harness off. Best to replace with some heat shrink or a really good tape job to prevent corrosion.
Yes, my combination of dielectric grease under standard heat shrink is a poor man’s version of the “industrial” heat shrink that you are using. :grin:Good points Matt, I use a bit of environmental heat shrink that has a coating on the inside that melts and flows during the shrink process. It is what they used from the factory. Works really well but most people don't have access to it.