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Discussion Starter #1
Well I'm doing my first LT brake fluid flush and it was going well until, I sucked air into the front right wheel circuit. It sure is hard to watch that fluid go down in the rear half of the rear reservoir.

Am I in trouble or can I just keep bleeding it out? Can you tint the fluid to make it easier to see?? :(
 

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Just keep bleeding it out and you'll be fine. Not that you don't already know this, but just keep the reservior FULL. ;)
 

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The 02 has the servo assisted brakes, and should be bled by the dealer. The power assist and ABS system on those bikes are highly complex and have multiple bleed points on the system, it's not a simple matter like conventional braking systems are. The liklihoofd of ending up with ABS and brake faults is high without following the exact practice defined by BMW. I would recommend doing what you can to get the air out then take it to the dealer to get the job finished.
 

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So are you saying a "non-dealer" cannot bleed his/her own brakes??

Complex or not possible?

Enquiring minds want to know :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
DavidTaylor said:
The 02 has the servo assisted brakes, and should be bled by the dealer. The power assist and ABS system on those bikes are highly complex and have multiple bleed points on the system, it's not a simple matter like conventional braking systems are. The liklihoofd of ending up with ABS and brake faults is high without following the exact practice defined by BMW. I would recommend doing what you can to get the air out then take it to the dealer to get the job finished.
I understand it is not as easy as a conventional system. I understand there are six different circuits to bleed ( eight if you count the crossover circuits in the pump), but, it is do-able if you are so inclined and understand how it works. I suspect that since this was a wheel circuit and no air was sucked into the pump, I should be able to just continue bleeding until the fluid comes out clean.
 

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joevano said:
Well I'm doing my first LT brake fluid flush and it was going well until, I sucked air into the front right wheel circuit. It sure is hard to watch that fluid go down in the rear half of the rear reservoir.

Am I in trouble or can I just keep bleeding it out? Can you tint the fluid to make it easier to see?? :(
Mark Neblett put together a very thorough explanation of how to bleed the new system. I have attached it to this post. You can find this and much more in our Hall of Wisdom available in the technical pull down at the top of the page.
 

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Randy said:
Mark Neblett put together a very thorough explanation of how to bleed the new system. I have attached it to this post.
I just love the whole first page of that 'How To'. It's my favorite part. :)

Darn, I miss that guy! :(
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yea, I had that, wouldn't have gotten as far as I did without it! The Clymer manual was not very helpful. What I did not understand, was the reference to an IV bag and tube. Was that to help refresh the reservoir?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
joevano said:
I understand it is not as easy as a conventional system. I understand there are six different circuits to bleed ( eight if you count the crossover circuits in the pump), but, it is do-able if you are so inclined and understand how it works. I suspect that since this was a wheel circuit and no air was sucked into the pump, I should be able to just continue bleeding until the fluid comes out clean.
Actually, that statement is incorrect. I did suck air into the pump on it's way to the caliper. The pump did not get "run dry" so I hope it will be OK!
 

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Randy said:
Mark Neblett put together a very thorough explanation of how to bleed the new system. I have attached it to this post. You can find this and much more in our Hall of Wisdom available in the technical pull down at the top of the page.
Messenger13 said:
I just love the whole first page of that 'How To'. It's my favorite part. :)
After reading the first page (that is great, I miss Mark, too), and the following 14 pages of instructions to "complement" the factory manual, I still think my advice is right. :p :D
 

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I was thinking of doing the whole 12k service myself..but now I am thinking of waiting and doing a drive down to germany and have some proffesionals to do it!

If I could only get a good price and know some in northern germany who will do it.

Does anyone in here know of any good repair shop in northern germany who does the 12 k an at what price?

Or maybe my british/ Scottish friends know how and can show me?
 

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joevano said:
Well I'm doing my first LT brake fluid flush and it was going well until, I sucked air into the front right wheel circuit.
Believe air in the front circuit is not as serious as introducing air in the other circuits. As others have advised, keep bleeding until all air is out. Keep the reservoir as full as possible; a small vortex is created in the reservoir and air can get in when the reservoir gets down to about 1/4 full. I did find you needn't remove all the left side tupperware...loosen a few of the screws and there's enough flex in the tupperware that you can bend it out enough to access the ABS pump for bleeding purposes.
 

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I agree with David on "brakes are critical and you should leave it to the dealer if you don't know what you are doing". But you can easily recover from this by filling the reservoir and then getting a long piece of tubing and run it from the caliper to the reservoir. Just make sure initially the reservoir does not go dry again. Then continue running fluid until the bubbles disappear in the tubing.


Then check proper brake operation carefully by applying the brakes several times at slow speed. If you can get the warning lights to go out following the roll test, you are home free. This indicates no faults. I would recommend a follow up with the dealer to perform the Moditec brake bleed test that verifies all the air is out of the system.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
jzeiler said:
I agree with David on "brakes are critical and you should leave it to the dealer if you don't know what you are doing". But you can easily recover from this by filling the reservoir and then getting a long piece of tubing and run it from the caliper to the reservoir. Just make sure initially the reservoir does not go dry again. Then continue running fluid until the bubbles disappear in the tubing.


Then check proper brake operation carefully by applying the brakes several times at slow speed. If you can get the warning lights to go out following the roll test, you are home free. This indicates no faults. I would recommend a follow up with the dealer to perform the Moditec brake bleed test that verifies all the air is out of the system.
Running a line from the bleed screw to the reservoir sounds like a great idea at first, but, wouldn't that just re-introduce the air bubbles into the reservoir?
 

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I hope this helps others: I did the same thing the first time that I bled my brakes.
It is actually quite simple to get the fluid back in without air in the line.

When I was in the Marine Corps, we had a tool called a bleeder ball. It basically pushed the fluid from the brake back to the master.

So, I just revesred my Mighty Vac and pushed the fluid from the right caliper until fliud started dumping from the rear, then I did the left.

Clean up sucked but my brakes are fine with no dealer intervention.

40.00 Mighty Vac and 6.00 bottle of fluid is sure better than a trip to the dealer.
 

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OK, I just gotta ask. Where did the author of that essay go? Total his bike
when his brakes failed?
 

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jbrown said:
OK, I just gotta ask. Where did the author of that essay go? Total his bike
when his brakes failed?
No, Mark is alive and well just very busy. I authored the addendum for the 05 and above and have done this at least 11 times to 6 different bikes, new and old with 100 % success. Hope that was tounge and cheek. :p
 
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