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Discussion Starter #1
not really :)

i just need some info an rear brake bleed. no one would even read the post labeled "brake bleed" much less respond.

I took the caliper off to change pads and paint and can not get it to bleed. Taking to a dealer is not an option at this point. if i have to order the tools to DIY thats ok.

just need some advise. thanks, Dale 05 ABS
 

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open the bleed screw, while pouring new fluid into your reservoir, slightly depress your rear brake pedal, while the bike is turned on, it will activate the pumps and flush your rear brake system for you. DO NOT let your reservoir run dry......
 

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Made me look.................
 

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(fill the reservoir up) the one under your rear seat, then open the bleed screw on the caliper, there is actually 2 one on each side, then depress the pedal and let the pumps send fluid through the lines, only depress the pedal lightly until you hear the pumps turn on. Once you have no air bubbles coming through any more, close the bleed screw on the caliper and do the same to the other side. I would bleed your entire system if your reservoir is dry.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sheldon,

thanks for your help. I opened or tried both bleed screws. The pumps run but no fluid comes out. I have a one man bleed attached. Allot of air coming through, but no fluid. I pulled the panels on the left side to expose the pump.

thanks again. :confused:
 

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fluid will come through eventually, even if you just pump the pedal with the bike off, let gravity work for you. you obviously have a dry system and it needs to fill up first, before it goes out to the calipers
 

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2011 R1200RT
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dnifong said:
not really :)

i just need some info an rear brake bleed. no one would even read the post labeled "brake bleed" much less respond.

I took the caliper off to change pads and paint and can not get it to bleed. Taking to a dealer is not an option at this point. if i have to order the tools to DIY thats ok.

just need some advise. thanks, Dale 05 ABS
I am not sure you would bleed the rear caliper after replacing the pads... ??? :confused:
All you need to do after removing the old pads is to push back the pistons inside the caliper to make room for thew pads which will be thicker, and you are done.
 

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gglove said:
If she is bleeding there is no hot sex :histerica
Dayem! I can't believe I missed that one!!!:histerica
 

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Do yourself a HUGE favor and go buy a Mityvac. The cheapest model will work just fine... not really all that expensive considering all the aggravation (and money) it will save you.

It's one of those tools that you slap yourself in the forehead for not buying in the first place since it makes a task that is pretty much a PITA easy.
;)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
thanks again,

I tried for an hour. Still no fluid flow. I left both bleeders open all night hoping gravity would work. "no help"

the bmw car manual states that a pressurized bleeder is necessary.

still open for things to try :confused:

dale
 

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dnifong said:
thanks again,

I tried for an hour. Still no fluid flow. I left both bleeders open all night hoping gravity would work. "no help".

still open for things to try :confused:

dale
Is the fluid going down in the reservoir when you press the brake pedal? Then have to add more fluid.

Also, shouldn't you have to close the bleed screw before letting up on the pedal, so you don't suck air back into the system? Then reopen it when depressing the pedal.:confused:
 

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This is a interesting topic. I plan on changing my pads soon so this information is good!

can you press press press (hot sex while 2 up, :rotf: ) and hold while releasing air/fluid from the bleeder like on any other bike or is there a special sequence for a bike with ABS?
 

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Not sure on your 05 but on my 03 there are TWO reservoirs at the same location by the right side case. Mine has two caps and when I service the reservoir I check and fill both. It's one unit but has a divider in the middle and a cap for each side. Did you check BOTH sides of the reservoir?
 

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hip001 said:
This is a interesting topic. I plan on changing my pads soon so this information is good!
He didn't just change his pads. In his other post he said he took the caliper off to paint it. So there is no fluid in the line when he was trying to bleed them.

'05 is different from your 2000 because they have a pump. So they can just press and pump the oil out. We have to keep opening and closing, unless you put speed bleeders in.
 

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Frist the topic then I read ""Bleed screw"!

Is it only me the foreign language dude or ... :p
 

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I just did the brake flush on my '05 K1200LT. There was no dual reservoir as pictured in the Clymer manual for earlier 2005 LTs. Instead the ABS module had only the two black plastic caps (use a 8 mm hex key to remove them) that had a very small amount of fluid under them, that had to be kept full to prevent air ingestion whenever the pump runs.

I accidentally ingested air before adding two kludged standpipes to keep those under-the-cap chambers full at all times when bleeding. I knew this because the pump would run abnormally long on static brake application when I had first bled the brakes. When bleeding, these chambers empty quickly whenever the pump runs.

With the temporary standpipes, & re bleeding once again, the brakes feel normal & the pump runs normally (just a fraction of a second) on static brake applications.

BUT, I assume I may have set an ABS system error code. Is there a way for us tech savvy owners to reset the ABS system? My bike is in my basement waiting for the grass here to get hard enough to drive over it. With the weather here in Minneapolis, that should be about July................. :(
 
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