[Scouter-50]

Here we go some more guys. Yesterday I changed the plugs on my 2000 model K1200LT with 10K miles. I used NGK Iridium DCPR7EIX plugs. I checked the resistance of the wires (which were all in great shape) #1 = 6.34K ohms, #2 = 5.84K ohms, #3 = 6.33K ohms, #4 = 6.52K ohms all of which seem to be within tolerance. I went for a test ride and the miss is still there from about 6500 RPM up. I even tried the "Italian" tune up but had a hard time reaching 8000 RPM. I did not have the guts to try to bounce off the rev limiter. I'm looking for suggestions now as I am somewhat at a loss. I am leaning toward some kind of fuel issue. Can you pull the fuel filter without removing the tank? I also do not have quick connects on the fuel lines but I assume that tank removal is not a common occurence. This bike has the original plastic barbs in the lines, do I need to replace them with metal or just leave them alone?

Thanks, Robert.

 

[gary45]

it should go from 6 to redline pretty quick, not as quick as the K11 because of weight, I think I would remove the tank and make sure the air filter is OK, you can change the fuel filter with the tank on (I have not done it)
so you are indicating miss at idle is gone?

 

[Scouter-50]

it should go from 6 to redline pretty quick, not as quick as the K11 because of weight, I think I would remove the tank and make sure the air filter is OK, you can change the fuel filter with the tank on (I have not done it)
so you are indicating miss at idle is gone?

Gary, I guess my first reply got lost. Acceleration from 6K to 8K is pretty slow. I don't know of any way that this bike could have a clogged air filter with only 10K miles. I see no evidence of rodents/insects in/on this bike. Yes the low speed miss is gone. Evidently the air box temp. sensor neutering worked.
Thanks for the reply, Robert.

 

[jzeiler]

This is a long shot especially if no maintenance has been performed. I had a similar issue after my clutch job. Only mine ran like crap above 4K. Finally traced it to a fuel injector connector that was not "locked" on the injector. It would fire until the vibes got to it and then it would stop firing r fire intermittenly. Pull the left side fairing and tug on each of the wires (Green/White and Yellow/Gray) going to the injectors you might get lucky and one will pop right off.

 

[gary45]

I realise it is a lot of work but the only way to tell if the air filter (and inlet plenum) is OK is to look, it is one of the basics, only one way to eliminate it - fuel delivery in modern fuel injection is determined by air flow not throttle position

what was the color of your original plugs, all the same and very light to no deposits

what rpm does your bike idle at - my 2K idles at 9K

 

[Scouter-50]

I realise it is a lot of work but the only way to tell if the air filter (and inlet plenum) is OK is to look, it is one of the basics, only one way to eliminate it - fuel delivery in modern fuel injection is determined by air flow not throttle position

what was the color of your original plugs, all the same and very light to no deposits

what rpm does your bike idle at - my 2K idles at 9K

These don't look bad to me. My bike idles at about 1000 RPM sometimes 900RPM.

 

[Scouter-50]

This is a long shot especially if no maintenance has been performed. I had a similar issue after my clutch job. Only mine ran like crap above 4K. Finally traced it to a fuel injector connector that was not "locked" on the injector. It would fire until the vibes got to it and then it would stop firing r fire intermittenly. Pull the left side fairing and tug on each of the wires (Green/White and Yellow/Gray) going to the injectors you might get lucky and one will pop right off.

Thanks, John. Looks like I will be pulling the tank soon, I will check the injectors then.
Robert.

 

[gary45]

sorry meant my bike idles at 900

plug color looks OK altho a bit darker than I would expect, 2nd from left and 4th look suspicious but these are your old plugs

 

[Scouter-50]

sorry meant my bike idles at 900

plug color looks OK altho a bit darker than I would expect, 2nd from left and 4th look suspicious but these are your old plugs

Picture doesn't do justice. The plugs have a light tan one side only. This is the dark side (G). You can just about wipe it off with a finger.
Robert

 

[rdwalker]

With bikes that use "stick coils", like the R12, high-rpm miss may signify a faulty coil.

I'm not sure if that would also be the case with the K12's ignition coil, but: food for thought...

 

[New2rt]

Are the plugs in order? If so I would think the miss is in 2 and 3 (lost spark ignition system)
If you can, ride it to the miss and shut it off, pull the plugs and see what they look like.
You can also look at the tach when it's missing. A sharp fluctuation would indicate ignition a smooth drop would indicate fuel. Not a 100% but can help.

 

[gary45]

Picture doesn't do justice. The plugs have a light tan one side only. This is the dark side (G). You can just about wipe it off with a finger.
Robert

with lead free gas you do not normally see any deposit or an extremely light tan, does not look like you are running lean as the cause of your miss

 

[Scouter-50]

OK Guys, I may have found the culprit. I pulled all the tupperware and pulled off the tank. Everything was so pristine that I almost did not pull the fuel pump/filter assembly. I did it anyway and found the short 45 degree bent hose with a 3/16 crack in the middle running longitudinally. I removed the filter with hoses attached and blew through the hoses. SUBSTANTIAL leak! I guess the fuel rail was not getting the pressure it needed at 6500 rpm plus. I'll let you know and post pictures after I get it back together and test it.

BTW if Germans make prophylactics do not buy them unless you plan on being a parent! Sorry rubber!

Robert

 

[Cochinosucio]

Glad you finally got her figured out, and all fuel contained. No fire, and not stranded!

 

[Scouter-50]

OK Guys, Hallelujah! The culprit was the short hose in the tank. High speed miss is gone. I ran it up over 110 mph no missing. Thanks for all of your help, this forum is fantastic!
See the attached pic of the hose.
Thanks again, Robert.

Now to figure out my fuel gauge issue.

 

[jzeiler]

Me thinks I shall order one of those and have it ready for my next fuel filter change.

 

[Scouter-50]

Me thinks I shall order one of those and have it ready for my next fuel filter change.

Be ready for heart attack/abusive pricing. the short hose 16142305760 was $22.99. The "U" bend hose 161423225808 was $34.99. The Oetiker clamps 16121176918 were $2.99 each. I got my Kinipex Oetiker clamp pliers from Graingers for $30.00. And that's the way it is.

Good luck and ride safe, Robert.

 

[Ric]

By chance did you replace the air filter while you were in there?

Rick H.

 

[Scouter-50]

By chance did you replace the air filter while you were in there?

Rick H.

Thanks, Rick. No I didn't feel it was necessary. I just tapped the bugs out and re-used it. See pic.

Robert

 

[rattler50]

I replaced my fuel lines when the pump quit on me this winter. I thought they were looking like they might crack. I used submersible fuel line (the SECOND time) after I was informed of the difference. It was $25 a foot. I used the fuel injection clamps instead of the crimp clamps. I got some clamps and a crimper from the local welding supply store. The crimp tool cost me $14. I also recommend changing out these hoses while you're in there. Could save you a big headache. They were $22 each when I looked them up but I wasn't wanting to wait to have them shipped to me so I made my own and used a couple of springs to make the 90 in the hose.............