BMW Luxury Touring Community banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
478 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
after reading a thread complaining about the lt clutch.
thought i would mention that RB raceing has performance clutches for the lt.and a cool articial where they turbocharged one, go to there website & go to products then bmw clutches was interesting
 

·
Registered
1999 LTC
Joined
·
14,458 Posts
bobst2 said:
after reading a thread complaining about the lt clutch.
thought i would mention that RB raceing has performance clutches for the lt.and a cool articial where they turbocharged one, go to there website & go to products then bmw clutches was interesting
A seach for RBRacing here on the forums will bring up several posts about dealing with these folks. So far, their claim is still in the vaporware category. Goes to show ya that everything you read on the internet ain't gospel.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
367 Posts
Some of us are on a waiting list with eurotech motors for the Siebenrock Clutch plate that they make. All they need is 10 and they'll make up a bunch. Since that is one that has had good reviews on the forum it is probably a much better choice. So if your interested join the list and maybe we will get our 10 up so they'll make them. I think we are up to 4 or 5 now. here's the link in case your interested.http://www.eurotechmotorsports.com/forms/Query.cfm?do=detail&q_part=2122456&q_StartRow=1
 

·
Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
Joined
·
14,247 Posts
The only reason for a high performance clutch for the LT is if you want to launch off the line like a drag racer. i.e high rpms and dump the clutch.

Much better if you just keep the rpms down below 1,800 until the clutch fully locks up THEN hammer it, it will not slip and you can shift out of first gear at 62 mph.

That usually equates to 20 - 30 ft into the intersection slowly - then I am gone!!

Now having said that I am on the list for this next build of the oil proof clutches.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
478 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
whats the process do you pay up front or what to get on the list.i see about $270 prob a lot less than a stock part.
but i am not a big fan of paying up front and mabey getting parts later.i am not questioning the suppliers integrity.just ie credit card or paypal u have limited time to recoupe your money like 30 to 45 days
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,497 Posts
i see about $270 prob a lot less than a stock part
A Stock clutch is $175... If you don't have a seal leak oil on it., & you don't abuse it . It will last a long long time. If you get an oil leak, you are going to have to take it apart to fix it anyway. So I do not see an advantage in using anything but a stock clutch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
478 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
the advantage of the oil restant clutch is the lack of a towing bill .depending where you are when it happensit could be a very large bill & take the fun out of a family holiday
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
367 Posts
Bobst2 The ad I read said that you get on the list and they charge you when it ships, that is if they get the required 10 orders.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
729 Posts
michelsmith said:
you should look at a spec stg 3 or if you want to go all out get a street twin. You also might want to get your stock heads ported instead of the trick flows.
That's what I was thinking :rolleyes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
478 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
went to the link so far it shows orders at 3 i read the entire link does seem like a good
alternative & it does say will not charge your card untill your unit ships.
they also talk about increased holding power on the material.
when towing fully loaded it apears like a very small amount of slip on uphill starts happens now.could just be my rideing style. i think i might get on the list
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
The only slipping on get on my clutch is in 5th gear usually around 50 mph. If I gas the bike the clutch slips. I was just climbing up Rt. 4 in the Sierras going East to West, on the steepest parts of the grade you are in first gear rolling through super tight switchbacks. Fully loaded with luggage from a three day ride with my wife, the clutch does not slip. Hit the flats and get lazy about shifting from 5th to 4th and the clutch slips.

I don't get it. I drilled an inspection hole in the transmission case the only thing I got out was some clutch plate dust.

Is this normal? Will a new clutch fix the problem? Will a high performance clutch fix the problem?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,497 Posts
A Stock clutch is $175... If you don't have a seal leak oil on it., & you don't abuse it . It will last a long long time. If you get an oil leak, you are going to have to take it apart to fix it anyway. So I do not see an advantage in using anything but a stock clutch
the advantage of the oil restant clutch is the lack of a towing bill .depending where you are when it happensit could be a very large bill & take the fun out of a family holiday
Well, If you have your bike apart anyway....Yes, it makes a little sense to stick the Oil residant clutch in...

But if you need to gut your bike like a fish to change the clutch out. If the hire that job done in hopes of making it so you Might not have to get towed in some time. I think the tow will be the cheaper way to go. ...Your going to need to gut it again anyway...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
837 Posts
While the weep hole is directed at identifying a fluid leak, there are times when a clutch disc can slip without being oil soaked. This condition can also be attributed to a badly worn flywheel and or pressure plate. Rick
 

·
Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
Joined
·
14,247 Posts
tomandmelanie said:
The only slipping on get on my clutch is in 5th gear usually around 50 mph. If I gas the bike the clutch slips. I was just climbing up Rt. 4 in the Sierras going East to West, on the steepest parts of the grade you are in first gear rolling through super tight switchbacks. Fully loaded with luggage from a three day ride with my wife, the clutch does not slip. Hit the flats and get lazy about shifting from 5th to 4th and the clutch slips.

I don't get it. I drilled an inspection hole in the transmission case the only thing I got out was some clutch plate dust.

Is this normal? Will a new clutch fix the problem? Will a high performance clutch fix the problem?
That is what mine was doing. I continued to ride it for several months before tearing it down. There was a little bit of oil in the clutch dust on the engine side of the bell housing. While the dust on the tranny side was dry. Suspected a cracked o-ring on the output shaft. Clutch plate was nearing the wear limit. I presume it was pre mature wear due to the way I was starting off the line when pulling a trailer. I slipped the clutch at higher rpm than usual (2,100 to 2,300 rpm) when starting out with the trailer and after 6,000 miles of that I did her in. Last trip I kept the rpms below 1,500 until the clutch was fully engaged and she is still going strong after a 7,000 mile trip.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top