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Discussion Starter #1
In preparation for Saturday's pickup of a new Unigo trailer, I spent some time this evening installing the hitch they shipped me.

What a PITA. :mad: It's only 4 bolts (2 on each side, beneath the side cases), and the instructions clearly say it works best to do the left side first, but I can't get the left 2 to line up fore and aft. I can get the front one in but not the back, and vice versa. The 2 on the right side line up OK, but it's one or the other on the left side no matter what order I try them in, and with or without the right side bolts in place. The 2 on the left side simply don't line up... yet. The hitch needs to be about 1/8" longer on the left side. Presently I have 3 of the bolts in place and that's the way it's going to stay when I pull into Unigo on Saturday afternoon. I'll let them fight with it.

Any suggestions?
 

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hschisler said:
In preparation for Saturday's pickup of a new Unigo trailer, I spent some time this evening installing the hitch they shipped me.

What a PITA. :mad: It's only 4 bolts (2 on each side, beneath the side cases), and the instructions clearly say it works best to do the left side first, but I can't get the left 2 to line up fore and aft. I can get the front one in but not the back, and vice versa. The 2 on the right side line up OK, but it's one or the other on the left side no matter what order I try them in, and with or without the right side bolts in place. The 2 on the left side simply don't line up... yet. The hitch needs to be about 1/8" longer on the left side. Presently I have 3 of the bolts in place and that's the way it's going to stay when I pull into Unigo on Saturday afternoon. I'll let them fight with it.

Any suggestions?
Boy, that sounds like a jig problem during fabrication. Mine should be here tomorrow and I'll check it out right away. If I have the same problem, I'm thinking oversizing the holes in the bike subframe are the best way to go, as long as it isn't too much.

They recommend the left side due to the exhaust interference and access.

I'll let you know, Howard.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Raffy and John,

Thanks for the suggestions and comments.

I'll call Unigo today; they haven't replied to my email from Monday yet. If I had maybe another 1/16" inch forward movement on the left side it would work -- I just need enough movement so the bolt can grab the threads. Maybe enlarging the bolt hole is the way to go. I'll try that tonight after checking back for more replies.

Thanks.
 

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Hey Howard

Try putting one side on, then get someone to put a foot on the center and tweak it till you can get both the other two bolts to start in. trying to do this alone is a PITA, keep us informed and we woulp;d like a full report when you start pulling the trailer.

I might be looking also, my wife is under the cant leave home without it theroy, and I dont mean my credit card.

Glen
Litchfield
 

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Hammers!!!! yeah!!!

http://www.thorshammervodka.com/

Thor's Hammer

Hail the mighty ones,
the actors and the gods,
the powerful.

Once a might hammer's blow
struck down from high
the heavens.
Such terror here
was never known
as Thor his wrath unleashed.
The weapon lost,
the god foul angered
looked down upon a giants home,
and there beheld
his prize possession
stolen and alone.
Angered still,
Sought he the aid
of one lone trickster
-- (Loki, plague and fraud)
and plans devised
a hundred fold,
all to regain his treasure.
Trickster Loki weddings saw
and dressed them both as women,
unto the giant gifts they gave
and one proposal of marriage.
Upon the chosen day at hand,
the hammer Thor reclaimed,
and crushed at last in sweet revenge
the thief who took his weapon.

By Jerome Dane (1/15/98)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Update: Mission Accomplished

Unigo advised reaming out the hole with a file. I tried that and made zero progress, which was good because the more I thought about it the more I didn't like the idea of one of the bolts having slop in it, possibly allowing the hitch to move around, etc. I abandoned that idea.

We measured the left side v. the right side of the bolt holes on the hitch. Left side was shorter by 1/16", as I suspected. (although the difference was in the bolt mounts, not the actual length of either side of the hitch itself; hope this makes sense) Noticing that one of the left-side mounts was not perpendicular to the left side of the hitch, we brought out an ordinary carpenter's hammer, gave it a few well-placed whacks, and guess what? It fits! Hitch is installed. Not so much of a PITA after all. :eek:

Like most things once you've done it, it's no big deal. Now that the bolt mounts match up to the bolt holes on the bottom of the side cases I could take the hitch off and put it back on in maybe 10 minutes, having done it several times now.

Thanks for the suggestions. Pix attached for your enlightenment.
 

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Good show, Howard. Wait till you try it with the beeg, beefy hitch for the Unigo. If your wife carried as much stuff as mine, you'll end up needing it after a few judicious welds.

In all fairness, I'll have to say that I rode the bike as hard with the trailer as without. Included strafing tweesties and whatever other various road happened upon.


hschisler said:
Unigo advised reaming out the hole with a file. I tried that and made zero progress, which was good because the more I thought about it the more I didn't like the idea of one of the bolts having slop in it, possibly allowing the hitch to move around, etc. I abandoned that idea.

We measured the left side v. the right side of the bolt holes on the hitch. Left side was shorter by 1/16", as I suspected. (although the difference was in the bolt mounts, not the actual length of either side of the hitch itself; hope this makes sense) Noticing that one of the left-side mounts was not perpendicular to the left side of the hitch, we brought out an ordinary carpenter's hammer, gave it a few well-placed whacks, and guess what? It fits! Hitch is installed. Not so much of a PITA after all. :eek:

Like most things once you've done it, it's no big deal. Now that the bolt mounts match up to the bolt holes on the bottom of the side cases I could take the hitch off and put it back on in maybe 10 minutes, having done it several times now.

Thanks for the suggestions. Pix attached for your enlightenment.


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glenhinegardner said:
Hey Howard

Try putting one side on, then get someone to put a foot on the center and tweak it till you can get both the other two bolts to start in. trying to do this alone is a PITA, keep us informed and we woulp;d like a full report when you start pulling the trailer.

I might be looking also, my wife is under the cant leave home without it theroy, and I dont mean my credit card.

Glen
Litchfield
We'll give you a double review. I pick mine up a week after Howard and should be able to put 1000 miles on it right away. Maybe Howard and I can get together for a double uni-go shot!
 

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hschisler said:
Unigo advised reaming out the hole with a file. I tried that and made zero progress, which was good because the more I thought about it the more I didn't like the idea of one of the bolts having slop in it, possibly allowing the hitch to move around, etc. I abandoned that idea.

We measured the left side v. the right side of the bolt holes on the hitch. Left side was shorter by 1/16", as I suspected. (although the difference was in the bolt mounts, not the actual length of either side of the hitch itself; hope this makes sense) Noticing that one of the left-side mounts was not perpendicular to the left side of the hitch, we brought out an ordinary carpenter's hammer, gave it a few well-placed whacks, and guess what? It fits! Hitch is installed. Not so much of a PITA after all. :eek:

Like most things once you've done it, it's no big deal. Now that the bolt mounts match up to the bolt holes on the bottom of the side cases I could take the hitch off and put it back on in maybe 10 minutes, having done it several times now.

Thanks for the suggestions. Pix attached for your enlightenment.
Nice job Howard. Wish I would have read this earlier. Mine is on the bike but was definitely misaligned also. It went together but way too tight and a good chance of stripping threads if not real careful.

Mine is so tight I could here the subframe flex when tightening the 4 bolts. Then when I went to close my left case it is tweaked at the lower hinge causing the latch to be a wee bit tighter than it was before the hitch mount. First time I have it off I'll look at tweaking the hitch for a better fit like you did.

Also wired up the trailer connector. Looked and looked at the relay and the LT wire diagram, read some threads, thought about it from my experience and decided to forego the isolation relay. Can't see a specific need. I don't think the ABS bus is a new enough generation to sense just an increase in current or resistance, I think it's looking for nearly an open circuit, as in a burned out tail light bulb.

If I'm wrong I'll throw the relay on at Schoolhouse when I pick the trailer up. As far as protection, the standard fuses are adequate.
 

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bowlesj said:
Nice job Howard. Wish I would have read this earlier. Mine is on the bike but was definitely misaligned also. It went together but way too tight and a good chance of stripping threads if not real careful.

Mine is so tight I could here the subframe flex when tightening the 4 bolts. Then when I went to close my left case it is tweaked at the lower hinge causing the latch to be a wee bit tighter than it was before the hitch mount. First time I have it off I'll look at tweaking the hitch for a better fit like you did.

Also wired up the trailer connector. Looked and looked at the relay and the LT wire diagram, read some threads, thought about it from my experience and decided to forego the isolation relay. Can't see a specific need. I don't think the ABS bus is a new enough generation to sense just an increase in current or resistance, I think it's looking for nearly an open circuit, as in a burned out tail light bulb.

If I'm wrong I'll throw the relay on at Schoolhouse when I pick the trailer up. As far as protection, the standard fuses are adequate.
I made my own isolation unit with for plain old relays, one each for left/right/stop/tail lamps. Tapped into the tail light assembly using piggback connectors for now because I could not find the wires in the harness under the pax seat, but hope to resolve that this weekend at the Munster Garage tech session.
 

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Well I've had mine since '02 and one of the other PITA about the hitch is that it must be removed in order to take the rear rim off. I have developed a particular serious of foul language that seems to help get the durn thing aligned but they only work in the garage. The two times I have had to remove the wheel on the side of the road for repairs, it took three of us cussing at the same time. OTOH, I really like the trailer.

bowlesj said:
Nice job Howard. Wish I would have read this earlier. Mine is on the bike but was definitely misaligned also. It went together but way too tight and a good chance of stripping threads if not real careful.

Mine is so tight I could here the subframe flex when tightening the 4 bolts. Then when I went to close my left case it is tweaked at the lower hinge causing the latch to be a wee bit tighter than it was before the hitch mount. First time I have it off I'll look at tweaking the hitch for a better fit like you did.

Also wired up the trailer connector. Looked and looked at the relay and the LT wire diagram, read some threads, thought about it from my experience and decided to forego the isolation relay. Can't see a specific need. I don't think the ABS bus is a new enough generation to sense just an increase in current or resistance, I think it's looking for nearly an open circuit, as in a burned out tail light bulb.

If I'm wrong I'll throw the relay on at Schoolhouse when I pick the trailer up. As far as protection, the standard fuses are adequate.
 

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cfell said:
Gee.. I'm going to have to find something to HAMMER on!

"Hey, Honey.. I ordered a hitch and Unigo for the bike... yes, I'm going to use my Beautiful Flying Hammer (BFH =) on it...
Oh, so that is what the "F" in "BFH" stands for. :eek:
 
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