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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
HELP PLEASE...my 04 LT integ brake pump is different....

I need to bleed/flush my brake system. I have an 04 LT with integrated/ABS. I have the Clymers manual and a printout from this forum of the procedure to do the flush. I also ordered that "wonderful" $35 plastic funnel from "boneyard" to fill the pump reservoirs.

WELL...I stripped the bike to get to the pump and to my "suprise", the pump is totally different than the one shown in the printout I have from this forum. I also could find nothing in the Clymer other than saying service on the pump should be done at a dealer....well...I HATE my local dealer so that is an absolute LAST RESORT. There are no pics in the Clymer that I saw of the pump.

The pump is located to the left of the battery under the frame rail beneath the seat. It has hard steel brake lines running into the back (facing the rear) of the pump. There are no removeable reservoir caps on the top of the pump. There are two (that I saw) steel bleed nipples at two diff locations on the pump.

I have done a fair amount on my other bikes (all HD's) over the years and am semi-comfortable working on them but am a total "newbie" working on the LT...except for routine maintenance....which by the way...cracked me up doing an air filter change. I never thought I'd ever spend an afternoon doing an air filter change...lol.

Back to my current problem. Are there two different types of pumps?? Is there a "bleed for dummies" on this forum for the type of pump that I have? Any help that any of you "LT Vets" can give is GREATLY APPRECIATED.

Steve
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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This should help with a walk through Mark's Article. The unit is similar to the ones with the reservoirs ON them but the reservoirs are on the frame rail, right side just behind the saddle bag. For a flush you just need to keep the chambers full (the funnel will also fit these reservoirs) Use the pump to push the fluid out to the calipers bleed ports. One chamber is for the front wheel circuit and one is for the rear wheel circuit as well as the rear control. The front control is of course on the handle bar. When flushing the control circuits you need only pull fluid from the two long bleed nipples (one for front and one for rear). Also answered yor PM.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
JOHN,
Thanks SOOO much!! That is exactly what I need and after a quick skim through "Marks article" doc it looks really straight forward!! Very well written and easy to follow.

Is there a similar "article" by Mark, yourself or anyone else regarding clutch fluid flushing?? I am probably long overdue for that as well.

Thanks again,
Steve
 

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loser said:
JOHN,
Thanks SOOO much!! That is exactly what I need and after a quick skim through "Marks article" doc it looks really straight forward!! Very well written and easy to follow.

Is there a similar "article" by Mark, yourself or anyone else regarding clutch fluid flushing?? I am probably long overdue for that as well.

Thanks again,
Steve
Clutch flushing is much simpler.

At the rear of the right tip-over bar is zip-tied a black foam-wrapped metal cylinder at the end of what looks like a brake hose. This is the end of the clutch bleed line. You need to remove the grub screw in the end of this cylinder and replace it with a BMW brake bleeder. The insertion of the bleeder into the cylinder depresses/opens a check valve so that fluid can flow out of the hose. When you install the bleeder, do it relatively quickly (but without cross-threading) so that you can quickly seat the bleeder to shut off the trickle of brake fluid that will come out of the cylinder when the check valve is opened.

After that, it's much like bleeding brakes, except that the clutch lever obviously will go all the way to the grip with each squeeze/bleed cycle. The job will go faster if you open the bleeder as you start to squeeze the clutch lever, then close it before releasing the lever. Squeeze/bleed until clear fluid comes through, watching the reservoir level to prevent uncovering the inlet hole at the bottom of the reservoir and drawing air into the line.

Reminders: (i) either thoroughly cover the tupperware or do the work with the tupperware off (you *will* have paint-stripping brake fluid drops during the process), and (ii) lay a paper towel over the open reservoir so that when you release the lever, the fluid returning to the reservoir does not *shoot*! straight up out of the inlet hole and go everywhere -- it can get to 2-3 feet above the bars. The only time I ever had a dealer do brake work on my 2nd LT, the tech didn't cover the reservoir and ended up permanently staining the right clear wind deflector next to the windshield.

HTH!
 
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