BMW Luxury Touring Community banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
265 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
OK last May I rode out to VA fro St. Louis. Rode like a knuckle head all through the mountains and back roads of nowhere! What a great time! Got to the Chesapeake Bay Bridge and made it nearly all the way across and into the last tunnel and WHOA what was that? CATASTROPHIC FINAL DRIVE FAILURE!!! I'm in the tunnel, limping at about 10mph out trying to get back to somewhere to call for help!

Long story even longer, got her to a dealer (THANK GOD!!!) and 1700 bucks later she's good as new right? Rode her home and I started noticing a vibration between 5 and 50 mph after about 500 miles. This vibration is in the entire bike. It feels kind of like gears not meshing correctly or if you could imagine a wheel rubbing on the swing arm (IT'S NOT) I feel it in the rear of the bike. Rub rub rub. It increases and decreases with speed, but goes away with the clutch. I rode it home and went straight to my dealer.

He says that it's not the final drive since the vibration seems to disappear when you grab the clutch. He thinks it's transmission related. I say it has every thing to do with the new final drive the dealer installed. I do not believe this is a transmission problem. That was last May. I want to get this figured out before any warranty expires (presuming it is a warranty issue).

I know that it is hard to diagnose from my EXTREMELY detailed description. I was just wondering if anyone else has had a similar vibration or has any ideas. My tranny oil is fine, and doesn't look any different than 'normal'.

I heard something about not having the splines on the shaft correctly inserted might cause the same vibration, but I dunno if that is a correct solution.

ANY THOUGHTS?????
 

·
Registered
The Villages, FL
Joined
·
2,592 Posts
When I had my final drive replaced, the technician did not push the driveshaft on completely. I noticed this after about 1,000 miles after the replacement. My dealer ordered a new driveshaft but when they finally took it apart they noticed that the shaft was not completely installed.
With the driveshaft not completely installed, it will back out and start to wobble.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
276 Posts
so did you have to pay $1700 for a FD replacement even though your bike is still in warranty? I'm not following your post completely.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,525 Posts
Final drive failure should be covered under warranty...
BMW brags about no one ever paying for a final drive...Lying bastards.
Who is the dealer that seems to have screwed you so badly ?

If the bike is under warranty. Tell them to fix the damn thing. If it stays in the shop too long look up your local lemon laws...Be sure to inform the dealer that you will be availing yourself of the lemon laws if they can't get the bike working properly...

Call BMW NA You should never have paid 1700 bucks for a new drive if the bike was in fact under warranty...

John
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,108 Posts
Your u-joints may be out of sync. Have the dealer check them and if they give you a blank stare when you ask them about it then go to someone who understands. If you feel the vibration once for every turn of the rear wheel then it may be a bearing issue but if the vibration is much faster than the RPMs of the rear wheel then it is likely associated with the u-joints or as indicated above improper installation of the drive-shaft.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
265 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Sorry for the confusion. My bike is a 99 and waaaaay out of warranty. I am talking about the 1yr parts and labor warranty on my repair. I had it fixed early May, and I want to have it re-fixed (if it is indeed a warranty issue) before it is too late.

This is the second final drive I have put in. The second lasted about 15K. This one however was a complete BRAND NEW FINAL not a rebuild like the last one. That particular dealer assured me that it would have the new bearings in it, and BMW would back it.

FWIW the dealer in VA was Adventure BMW and the guys really did take great care of me. They got me right in, and even drove me to a hotel nearby. Now I am in St. Louis, and this dealer is willing to work on it (aren't they all?) but is a little leary of 'warranty' work.

I was a little excited to hear about u-joints out of sync and the shaft not being inserted all the way. These are things that the dealer can spot and possibly call warranty? The bottom line is that right now I can't flip 500 bucks or more if the dealer says this isn't warranty, I have bigger fish to fry.

I know nobody can tell me anything without seeing my bike, but I was fishing for experience and info to convey to the mechanic to try and fix this. I don't think he is incompetent at all, he is 'not sure' how to handle the warranty work he said....
 

·
IBR# 366
Joined
·
16,544 Posts
BMW upped their spare parts warranty to 2 years a few years back. So that shouldn't be an issue. It sounds more like the St. Louis dealer just doesn't want to mess with a possible warranty repair that was originally done by a different dealer. I can understand that, but you need to push them to get it sorted out. Or else ride back to VA. :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,525 Posts
They did put oil in the new drive didn't they ? :rotf: You might want to check just in case.
And as Ken states, Your repair should have a two year warranty...

You might be able to diagnose this issue with the bike on the center stand.
I don't necessarily agree that de-clutching rules out the drive line. It just takes the pressure off it and the pressure of pushing the bike might be related to the noise.

Surely someone with great knowledge of the LT lives nearby and could help you diagnose this issue.



John
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,424 Posts
I'd trust the guys at Gateway BMW in St Louis in a heart beat. They took care of me, including putting on a final drive delivered from one my friends here on the list. Shane runs the shop and knows exactly what needs to be done. If the final drive is under warranty, they are going to want proof. Hopefully, your dealer in VA put that repair in the system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
I have my 2000 KL1200LT in the shop right now getting the drive shaft replaced. The mechanic is guessing that when the FD was replaced (by PO) that the snap ring on the end of the shaft was not properly seated. He also said he didn't think the U-joints were properly aligned... Haven't been able to get hold of the PO so no idea where or when the FD had been replaced.

My bike had a little vibration, but I thought it was related to the handle bar shimmie that these bikes sometimes develop. The drive shaft eventually worked its way far enough loose that it REALLY made a lot of noise. My FD is ok but splines and u-joints on the drive shaft are bad.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
265 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
BigH I think ours may be similar...I am going to take it back to Gateway and have them go through it. It NEEEDS to be fixed, it's just one of those things that has to be done. I'm just hoping it is warranty that's all. I guess it's never a good time to pluck out money, but it needs to be fixed.

Thanks for all your thoughts and opinions....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
I hear you about never a good time for the money :(

There is no warranty on mine so I am on the hook for the full cost. I believe a new drive shaft from BMW is in the $700 range. Looking into a used one if I can find one in "good" condition. Mechanic has a line on one for $300 and is just verifying some info with the seller before I order it. Hope I am not being penny wise and pound foolish.

Mechanic says he is going to take a close look at it when it comes in and if it looks marginal in any way at all seller says we can send it back for a full refund.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
265 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
You are so correct about cost. I believe that mine was around 750 plus I paid dearly for Air mail to get it delivered overnight. This was my second FD. The first time I merely had mine rebuilt, and it died about two years and 25K later. I still only have 48K on the clock. I hope this one lasts longer than 25K!!!

Best of luck on the used one. I don't think you are being foolish at all. You could ask your mechanic to check the bearing and make sure it is the new style, or just replace it since it is very easily accessed right now. With a new bearing, you really are pretty good to go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
Well I am replacing the drive shaft not the FD, but yes my mechanic already has the new bearings. Just waiting to see if the used drive shaft is good or not.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top