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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
my 02 has a problem. If I go to about 4K rpm my lights start to flicker and when I shut off the key the lights stay on for about 20 sec. My battery went low and I had to jump it I took the ground cable off and checked and I had 12.76 volts. If I go from the ground on the battery to the ground wire on the bike I get 10.08 volts.If I don't go over 4K the lights go off like normal. Any Ideas? Jim
 

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Sounds like the 5 mm bolt at the rear of the transmission that grounds the starter motor. The starter motor is the ground for the load shed relay ( lights flickering). BMW does not use a chassis ground so make sure all brown wires are tied together at the post behind the battery. There is a connection of a brown wire to the frame near the starter but it is not the main path.
 

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Jriverside said:
my 02 has a problem. If I go to about 4K rpm my lights start to flicker and when I shut off the key the lights stay on for about 20 sec. My battery went low and I had to jump it I took the ground cable off and checked and I had 12.76 volts. If I go from the ground on the battery to the ground wire on the bike I get 10.08 volts.If I don't go over 4K the lights go off like normal. Any Ideas? Jim

One other cause of this problem is a starter that needs to be cleaned. Check the bolts that hold the starter in place first & hope that is it, removing the LT starter is a real pain.
You might also check the load shed relay.
 

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hp1bmw said:
One other cause of this problem is a starter that needs to be cleaned. Check the bolts that hold the starter in place first & hope that is it, removing the LT starter is a real pain.
You might also check the load shed relay.
There is only one bolt on the starter and that is that 5mm on the rear. And it is an understatement on "removal is a pain" since you have to remove the transmission to remove the starter on the LT.
 

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Jriverside said:
I well check it out Saturday AM. Also if I need to where is the Load Shed Relay? Thanks Jim
you have to remove all the tupperware, remove the seat, and tank, it will be in a compartment on the right side of the bike, near the air filter., not hard to get to, just a bit time consuming. might as well clean/ change the air filter while there.
 

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You have to remove the battery to get to the 5m bolt and you need a ball driver to snug it up and a cut off 5mm allen to really tighten it. If that does not solve the problem then check all connections to the battery and starter. the feed to the starter also ties to a terminal block behind the battery. If that is loose it can cause the same problem.

The first shot is the tie point behind the battery, the one with the insulated cap on it. The second shot shows where to look on the transmission for that bolt (in the yellow circle). Too hard to see on the bike with the battery in place.
 

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John, in your photo it sure doesn't look like it is very hard to reach........:D

Loren
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I checked the bolt and it was a little loose and got it tight and I still have the short. load shed ? or starter? any thoughts? Thanks Jim
 

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If you have checked the electrical connections at the terminal tie points and the cable that is ON the starter. I think then that points to the load shed relay. The load shed is usually not affected by engine vibration so my money is on that bolt. But check over all the connections again. BMW does not use the frame as a ground return. It is grounded but they rely on the Brown wires for the current return path. Make sure the negative from the battery goes to that uninsulated tie point in the picture.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I was able to get the starter bolt tight and the light flicker and head light staying on went away. Thanks for all the help. Now I am hunting down the short that kills my battery. Let you know what I find. Jim
 

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Running down a battery drain is pretty simple. Just attach an amp meter to either side of the battery. You should see about .01 amps with everything off. If it's much above that just start pulling fuses until you run it down. It doesn't take much. .1 amps will kill it in just a couple of days.
 

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Jriverside said:
I was able to get the starter bolt tight and the light flicker and head light staying on went away. Thanks for all the help. Now I am hunting down the short that kills my battery. Let you know what I find. Jim
There was an issue with mismatched radios and radio controllers some where around the 02 time frame. Causes excessive battery drain if they are not matched. dealers had a recall but some may have slipped by. To mitigate always turn the radio off before shutting down the bike and turn the key to lock the forks (this kills the juice to the radio). I need to dig up the procedure to check the versions of sw on the radio and the controller.

Here you go:

Turn on the radio and within 8 seconds push andhold down the "MAN" button on the stingray radio control panel.You'll see "SVOL" appear on the radio screen (controls your speedvolume/rate of change and is adjustable from 1 to 4). Continue to hold down onthe "MAN" button until you get an 8 character radio serial numberdisplayed on the screen. Now release the "MAN" button.

Next, press and release the radio "SEEK" control on the handlebar.You should now see the radio software version (on the radio screen) that willlook something like SV 0300, SV 0400, etc, up to SV 0700 meaning that the radiosoftware version is 3.0, 4.0, etc.

To get the RCU software version press the"MAN" button again and you should see either BID 2.0 or BID 3.0.

If you have a RCU with version 2.0, it will workwith any radio software version, and they are: 3.0, 4.0, 5.0, 6.0 and 7.0respectively. If you have a RCU with version 3.0, you WILL get the batterydrain problem if you do not have a radio with version 7.0 software. In order tokeep the battery from discharging with a RCU version 3.0 and any other radiosoftware version except 7.0 you must use a Battery Tender or some reasonablesubstitute, or religiously 1)turn off the radio first, and then 2)turn the keyto the fork locking position each time you park the bike for any extendedperiod.



 

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jzeiler said:
If you have checked the electrical connections at the terminal tie points and the cable that is ON the starter. I think then that points to the load shed relay. The load shed is usually not affected by engine vibration so my money is on that bolt. But check over all the connections again. BMW does not use the frame as a ground return. It is grounded but they rely on the Brown wires for the current return path. Make sure the negative from the battery goes to that uninsulated tie point in the picture.

Hey guys;

Would this mysterious load shed relay cause my alternator not charging? I have other posts with my fustrations. Have checked all the other wires as noted from you fine people.
Had an alternator checked at the shop, all good. 3rd times a charm I hope. Cross your fingers and toes.
Thanks for all help and suggestions.

Zeke
 

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First at all, you need to remember if there is any mods you have done to the bikes lighting or any electric connections you have been messing around with or if you had any recent repairs on any specific section of the bike where they left something semy loose. Most of the time if you go to the last place or area you were messing around you can find the problem. If not, make shure all brown wires are clean and tight. Also a ded cell in a battery will give you some gostly behaviors on any vehicle including motorcycles.
 

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Zeke said:
Hey guys;

Would this mysterious load shed relay cause my alternator not charging? I have other posts with my fustrations. Have checked all the other wires as noted from you fine people.
Had an alternator checked at the shop, all good. 3rd times a charm I hope. Cross your fingers and toes.
Thanks for all help and suggestions.

Zeke
I don't think so if your lights come on when you turn on the key and go off during cranking and come back on as the engine starts the load shed is working fine. What makes you think that it is not charging? A light on the dash or are you measuring the voltage at the battery posts? If you are measuring the battery while the engine is running what are you getting? Should be something above 12.9 up to about 13.5 or so. We are still with you Zeke

One more question: You did hook back up the brown wires that bolt to the tranny right above the reverse gears where the starter bolts on? That is how the alternator gets its ground back to the battery.
 

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jzeiler said:
I don't think so if your lights come on when you turn on the key and go off during cranking and come back on as the engine starts the load shed is working fine. What makes you think that it is not charging? A light on the dash or are you measuring the voltage at the battery posts? If you are measuring the battery while the engine is running what are you getting? Should be something above 12.9 up to about 13.5 or so. We are still with you Zeke

Well, Here goes. !st thing, the original alternator had a broken brush spring. The charge light comes on when key on, but never goes out. Checked battery posts and get 12v or battery voltage. Go from alternator main post to ground and same thing,battery voltage. Bought 2 alternators from two different vendors and it was just hard to believe that i got 2 bad ones. Yesterday took the first bad one to the alternator shop he "reset" the brushes and I watched him test it and it tested good and was pushing as much as 21 volts. by reset I mean he took the brush assy out looked and re installed, said something about them not seating. So tomorrow I will drop the engine for the 3rd time, only takes about 1 1/2 hours now. LOL. We will see. You have to put it almost all together before a true test can be done. at least i know all the secrets now. LOL
Just looking for other ideas. Oh yea, i'm checking the starter bolt too. Cant hurt.
Any info is good info.
Thanks guys.

Zeke
 

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We're pullin' for you Zeke!!!
 

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Interesting thread. We have some real wizards on this forum. Thanks for the input. I might be looking for this someday.
 

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JZeiler, You know your shit .
 
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