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Last year towards the end of the season my brake lights and horn quite working. Shortly after that my reverse quit working. As for the reverse, it will go into reverse but will no longer pull, engine will not rev up. I have tried to find a possible short with no luck because the fuse on my brake lights and horn keeps blowing. Any chance one of the modules/relays has gone out? Any and all ideas would be apprecitated.
 

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Last year towards the end of the season my brake lights and horn quite working. Shortly after that my reverse quit working. As for the reverse, it will go into reverse but will no longer pull, engine will not rev up. I have tried to find a possible short with no luck because the fuse on my brake lights and horn keeps blowing. Any chance one of the modules/relays has gone out? Any and all ideas would be apprecitated.
In looking at the Clymer manual, that is box 2 fuse #4 and supports the horn, brakes and alarm system. Does it blow when you do something in particular like try reverse or hit the brakes blow the horn? Or does it just blow when you turn on the ignition?
 

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In looking at the Clymer manual, that is box 2 fuse #4 and supports the horn, brakes and alarm system. Does it blow when you do something in particular like try reverse or hit the brakes blow the horn? Or does it just blow when you turn on the ignition?
Also, are there any additional non factory Farkles that might be tapped into that fuse?
 

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Last year towards the end of the season my brake lights and horn quite working. Shortly after that my reverse quit working. As for the reverse, it will go into reverse but will no longer pull, engine will not rev up. I have tried to find a possible short with no luck because the fuse on my brake lights and horn keeps blowing. Any chance one of the modules/relays has gone out? Any and all ideas would be apprecitated.
I tend to want to eliminate the simpler possibilities first, and it's always "divide & conquer" when tracing an electrical problems. Regarding the fuse blowing: pull your tail light bulbs and look for any shorts between the 2 contact points on the tail end of the bulb. That could possibly account for the horn/brakelight fuse. Just a guess. Seen it a couple of times, although it really shouldn't be blowing a fuse. That scenario should just kill the light function of the brake & tail circuits. The lead material can spread till it shorts to the tail light circuit, taking the light functions with it. Possibilities still abound.
The reverser may be a bit more complicated, as you then have the reverser conrol unit and associated relay, but see if you can at least get the fuse to stop blowing and see what's left.
It's a start.

Bob
 
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In looking at the Clymer manual, that is box 2 fuse #4 and supports the horn, brakes and alarm system. Does it blow when you do something in particular like try reverse or hit the brakes blow the horn? Or does it just blow when you turn on the ignition?
Should be fuse block #2, fuse #12 - 15A. It is the 4th position on the block.
 

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Should be fuse block #2, fuse #12 - 15A
I don't have a 2007 so all I have to go by is the Clymer. If I am looking at this wrong, set me straight.

If it is a 2007, then the 2005-UP diagram should be correct. What are you looking at Bob? Posting pic of the page in my Clymer.
 

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I don't have a 2007 so all I have to go by is the Clymer. If I am looking at this wrong, set me straight.

If it is a 2007, then the 2005-UP diagram should be correct. What are you looking at Bob? Posting pic of the page in my Clymer.
The clymer schematic I'm looking at says 2006-On LT Models Frame and the schematic shows an 8 fuse block for both block#1 & #2, but fuse numbering is different from your illustration.
Look at pg 626
 
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+1 on the over-farklelization on the circuit as a possibility. I think bmwcoolk1200 pointed that out.

If there be farkels tied into that circuit, add up the worst-case load. It's a 15amp fuse. Too much lighting could blow the fuse. I doubt the horn plays too big a part as you aren't using it all the time, but you have to add it in anyway.

I haven't had the pleasure of personally troubleshooting such a malady. I'm sure someone on the boards who knows the bike better will post something more constructive. Meanwhile, I'll just study the clymer some more for ideas.
 

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Last year towards the end of the season my brake lights and horn quite working. Shortly after that my reverse quit working. As for the reverse, it will go into reverse but will no longer pull, engine will not rev up. I have tried to find a possible short with no luck because the fuse on my brake lights and horn keeps blowing. Any chance one of the modules/relays has gone out? Any and all ideas would be apprecitated.
Regarding the reverse problem, I would be remiss if I didn't ask:
#1-engine running?
#2-In Neutral?
#3-Reverse switch going fully into gear? (i roll my LT a little sometimes to help it drop into reverse)
#4-Any other gear or features not working? Maybe commonality would provide a clue.
 

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The clymer schematic I'm looking at says 2006-On LT Models Frame and the schematic shows an 8 fuse block for both block#1 & #2, but fuse numbering is different from your illustration.
Look at pg 626
Well look at that. They are not consistent for the numbering between those two pages. I hate it when that happens.

Are they actually numbered like the schematic on the fuse blocks? Now I am going to have to go out and look as i have never looked at my fuses ;)

At least the schematic agrees with what is on that circuit so the brakes, alarm and horn circuits are still the things to check and anything possibly tapped into it as well.

Thanks for pointing that out Bob.
 

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Well look at that. They are not consistent for the numbering between those two pages. I hate it when that happens.

Are they actually numbered like the schematic on the fuse blocks? Now I am going to have to go out and look as i have never looked at my fuses ;)

At least the schematic agrees with what is on that circuit so the brakes, alarm and horn circuits are still the things to check and anything possibly tapped into it as well.

Thanks for pointing that out Bob.
You gotta watch the Clymer manual for errors. The engine oil capacity specs for LT are wrong in my book. The book specs 4 qts of oil with filter chg, but I found it overfilled on my first oil chg. I had to siphon out 1/2 qt so I could read the level in the sight glass. I have corrected mine to read 3.5 qts with filter chg, though I think you can maybe do 3.75 qts if ya want the level near the top of the sight glass.
bob
 
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You gotta watch the Clymer manual for errors. The engine oil capacity specs for LT are wrong in my book. The book specs 4 qts of oil with filter chg, but I found it overfilled on my first oil chg. I had to siphon out 1/2 qt so I could read the level in the sight glass. I have corrected mine to read 3.5 qts with filter chg, though I think you can maybe do 3.75 qts if ya want the level near the top of the sight glass.
bob
+1
I've found the relays under the rear seat (on my 2004 European, post-face-lift bike) don't match the Clymer, and some of the wiring diagram colours don't quite tally either. It's still invaluable, but not infallible!

N
 

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Last year towards the end of the season my brake lights and horn quite working. Shortly after that my reverse quit working. As for the reverse, it will go into reverse but will no longer pull, engine will not rev up. I have tried to find a possible short with no luck because the fuse on my brake lights and horn keeps blowing. Any chance one of the modules/relays has gone out? Any and all ideas would be apprecitated.
Are all your ground connections good? I mean voltage drop tested good, not just "they look good" good.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
In looking at the Clymer manual, that is box 2 fuse #4 and supports the horn, brakes and alarm system. Does it blow when you do something in particular like try reverse or hit the brakes blow the horn? Or does it just blow when you turn on the ignition?
Sir-

As soon as I hit the brakes the fuse blows.

Thanks
Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I tend to want to eliminate the simpler possibilities first, and it's always "divide & conquer" when tracing an electrical problems. Regarding the fuse blowing: pull your tail light bulbs and look for any shorts between the 2 contact points on the tail end of the bulb. That could possibly account for the horn/brakelight fuse. Just a guess. Seen it a couple of times, although it really shouldn't be blowing a fuse. That scenario should just kill the light function of the brake & tail circuits. The lead material can spread till it shorts to the tail light circuit, taking the light functions with it. Possibilities still abound.
The reverser may be a bit more complicated, as you then have the reverser conrol unit and associated relay, but see if you can at least get the fuse to stop blowing and see what's left.
It's a start.

Bob
Sir-

I have looked and traced all the wiring or should I say what I can actually separate and see. As for the bulbs I have replaced the one that looked a little corroded and cleaned the connections. I also bought a Power Probe Short/Open Circuit Finder Kit ECT2000. It goes off showing a short in a couple of places but when I peel the wiring tape/shrouding I can't find anything. I agree with your theory. I added a trailer wiring harness but I have disconnected it to remove it from the loop.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The add on could be an issue since I have added a wiring harness that support a trailer with LED lights. However I removed it from the circuit and it is still blowing the fuse. Guess this weekend and look at the area I wired it into and see if there is a problem.
 

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The add on could be an issue since I have added a wiring harness that support a trailer with LED lights. However I removed it from the circuit and it is still blowing the fuse. Guess this weekend and look at the area I wired it into and see if there is a problem.
Good luck tracking that down. I would do as Bob suggested and pull all the lights out and then do some measuring and see if the bulbs being out stop the fuse from blowing. Inspect all the sockets and make sure none are shorted inside.

Some models have a brake LED bar on the back of the top case if it has the luggage rack on it so if you do, also look inside the top case to make sure no wiring is chaffed. You may be able to unplug that somewhere if the LED's have shorted.

Let us know what you find this weekend.
 

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One other thing to try is just remove the tail light assembly from the bike at the connector. The ABS unit drives the brake light relay so it is after the relay where your short is. Where did you tap in for the trailer? The wires are fairly light forward of that connector and if you accidentally did create a short you may have melted wires together. Start at the tail light unit and work your way forward.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Good luck tracking that down. I would do as Bob suggested and pull all the lights out and then do some measuring and see if the bulbs being out stop the fuse from blowing. Inspect all the sockets and make sure none are shorted inside.

Some models have a brake LED bar on the back of the top case if it has the luggage rack on it so if you do, also look inside the top case to make sure no wiring is chaffed. You may be able to unplug that somewhere if the LED's have shorted.

Let us know what you find this weekend.
Will do. My top case is lit so I will give that a shot along with pulling all the bulbs. Thanks!
 
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