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Will do. K&N air filter on the way thank you.
Not a big fan of K&N especially on the LT. Too much work to get to it then you have to clean it and re-oil it. I would just as soon throw a new paper filter and protect that NacaSil coating on the cylinder walls. K&N is great for race engines.

Glad you found that the relay was bad. That is a first for the newer style relay, but then they ALL have contacts that can go bad.
 
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I have a K&N because it is what came with the bike. I was simply mentioning that fact because it was in the pic I attached and his would look different. I have heard both sides and haven't made up my mind if I will switch back to paper next time i have the tank off. My sensor strip is not working properly but I don't have to pull the tank to examine that. It was cleaned and oiled less than 1k ago so I have some distance before it needs servicing.
 
Not a big fan of K&N especially on the LT. Too much work to get to it then you have to clean it and re-oil it. I would just as soon throw a new paper filter and protect that NacaSil coating on the cylinder walls. K&N is great for race engines.

Glad you found that the relay was bad. That is a first for the newer style relay, but then they ALL have contacts that can go bad.
JOHN,

About the RELAY: in 12 years on the K1200RS forum, I have seen only one of the newer type starter-relay fail. Based on some test, it apparently failed within the circuitry that does the voltage measurements, hence it would not trigger anymore. We do not have the full story so it may have been caused by a mis-step of previous owner (over-voltage trying to charge or boost the battery or something else....)

About the K&N filters: I fully agree with you - for regular street motorcycles usage, the high surface/density paper type filter we have on the K1200 from factory is far superior. If cleaned at roughly 10,000 miles intervals (tapping and using delicate vacuum cleaner) they can last another 6 to 10K miles.

The K&N "mania" is good for racing, enduro or motocross bike where you can and will clean the filter after every race. In addition, with these "racing" engines, you do not care if a bit of dust gets in the engine as they will be rebuild more often.
 
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Discussion starter · #25 ·
I do remember giving the bike a boost before I got the new battery. Perhaps I messed it up, the thing is that after surgery to put screws in both of my wrists due to wear and tear (I'm a mechanic) I have quite a issue riding it (remember that bike is about 837 lbs with full tank not to mention the wife unit in the back (no I will not put her weight in a forum hahaha) and not to mention I'm 5 feet 8 inches tall and I weight 160 lbs that's giving me reasons to think about getting rid of the bike sometimes but every time I ride it it feels soooooo dammmmmm goooood. By the way the relay has not arrived yet and I forgot where all those screws go.
 
Easy gauge for the screws: Sort them by length - Long , Medium and Short. If it goes into a well nut use a long one; if it goes through two pieces of plastic use a medium one, single plastic to a clip nut or tapped hole you can use a short one.

The EXCEPTION is on the tongue of the stingray where it goes over the latch for the oddiments box, left side - even with the latch, had better be a VERY short one (10 mm length) or it will jam up the central locking actuator. Also from the factory the black tip over covers had very short screws while the chrome tip over trim had 4 mm allens with a plastic washer. This is for the 05 and up.
 
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