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Discussion Starter #1
I lost my heated grips a while back, and my last 320 mile ride at 33 degrees has motivated me to fix them. I've got most of the bike stripped down (also adding circuits for my phone and I-pod), and think I've found the right wiring. Can anyone confirm that I'm on the right track, and do you think I'll need to pull the tank, or the nose cone for best access.
One photo shows what I'm almost certain are the wires coming out of the handle bars (Clymers shows the same thing). The other photo shows a plug behind the three to the stingray, which I think is the correct plug. If so, I can check continuity and power there. Thanks.
Frank
 

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You got em'. And downstream from the plug connector in photo #2, is another plug connector with the resistor wire for high and low settings. But it's located between the forks and a bit of a project to get to.

I had my tank pulled. You may be able to get it apart, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Tom,
I pulled the tank and checked that plug. No power that I can find, so downstream I go. I was a little surprised at the other side of the plug. There are two blacks and two browns, one each headed to left and right grips. I thought that I could test continuity through those to check the switch. I get full continuity on both circuits, and the switch makes no difference. I now think I understand that since each grip has a separate set of wires, they can't be going thru the switch at this point. Has to be happenin' elsewhere.
Back in I go.
Oh, do have power to the fuse, and the fuse is good too.
Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Pulled the nose cone, but can't ID the connector. Any idea which one it might be? There are 6 down inside, and one very large one out front, likely the windscreen motor.
 

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Pg 608 in my clymers. You can check the right multi switch (heated grip switch), by pulling the right handlebar plastic and unwinding a bit of electrical tape. Within the bundle of wires, green w/ black strip is power into switch, black is full heat out to grips, and orange is low heat out to grips. There are, if I recall correctly, a few black wires in there and you'll have to search using a needle to pierce the wire insulation. Start with gr/blk wire. Attach multimeter to needle and the other lead to ground terminal. Check voltage, not continuity, because a shorted out wire will give continuity. Then continue to other 2 wires.

I don't envy you at this moment. PM me if I can help
 

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fpmlt said:
Pulled the nose cone, but can't ID the connector. Any idea which one it might be? There are 6 down inside, and one very large one out front, likely the windscreen motor.
I think there are 3 wires going in on one side and 2 wires leaving the connector. Look for the orange and black wires
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That helps a bunch. Thank you. I'll be poking and prodding. Just curious, is the connector I found under the three for the stingray "after" the other? I'm assuming that to be the case, otherwise I've already found my problem in that there's no power there.
Really appreciate the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I was going to handle this thru PM to Tom, but thought maybe some one else might benefit.
I believe my switch is gone, and here's why. Referring to page 608 in the manual, I checked the following:
From the white connection, shown as the connection at the "heated handlebar grips" in the book (and the one behind the 3 connections at my stingray), I have good grounds.
I have power to the top side of the " right combination switch". That connection is behind the headlight on a bar with 6 connectors. Facing it, it's 3rd from the left, 3 wires in, 3 out.
I broke that connection (figuratively speaking), and checked continuity through the switch, testing at the bottom of the connection (isolating the switch from the everything else). I get no continuity (regardless of switch position) from green/black to black, and no continuity from green/black to orange. I do get continuity from black to orange. That suggests to me that the switch is probably fried: no power circuit, and likely the high low portion fused together.
Any other thoughts?
Thanks again for the help Tom.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sorry to be so long winded guys, but it just dawned on me that I can test my theory easily. Tomorrow I'll go out and jump the black/green to black at the connector before the switch. If it gets hot, it's the switch.
Anybody know if you can get into the switches on the grips? I tried once, and it didn't look good.
Let you know tomorrow how it goes.
 

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Frank, I sent a PM. But I forgot to mention that orange and black wires have continuity because they're connected. You are now my go to guy for questions.
 

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Sounds like the switch to me. Black and orange are tied together before the small grip connectors. They use wire size to set the temp. Orange is smaller 0.35mm and the black is bigger 0.5mm. Black/Green is the feed to the switch from fuse F6.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Update: it's the switch, or at least the switch circuit.
Here's a picture I took with a jumper wire crossing the power in with the low heat circuit. This connector is behind the nose cone. Looking at the bike from the front, it's 3rd from the left. The portion of the connector attached to the bike is from the power source, the removable portion is to the switch.
Jumping it as I did got me heated grips.
How this helps someone else down the road, 'specially you Texicans that are forced to ride in sub 70 temperatures :histerica
 

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Frank,
I have reviewed your posts from Jan 2011 and have a question. I have lost my heated grips as well. I have tested the white connector, and no power is going to it. Similarly, no power is going to the switch (I jumped the green/black wire with the black wire and there is no power, but there is continuity).

So I assume now that there is a short somewhere in the system, on the downside of the white connector. I thought my next step would be to disconnect the connector behind the headlight (third one from the left, as your picture shows) and see if there is power to the downside of that connector.

Does that make sense to you? Thanks a bunch.

Dan in NJ

PS I also sent you a PM on this.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hey Dan, first, have you checked your fuse? Sounds dumb, but I have to ask. Fuse box 2, F6, a 4 amp fuse. It should be a green/black wire in for power, black out for high, and orange out for low.
 

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Frank,
Yes fuse is OK. In fact I have power in green/black wire coming out of fuse box. I have traced it to the front and similarly have power in the green/black wire entering the top of the connector (third one from the left) in the nose. But no power in the wire coming out of the bottom of the connector.

I guess the next step is to take off the nose tupperware in order to get at the connector. I am assuming it has caked/corroded up somehow, so hopefully a good cleaning of it will do the trick.

Will keep you posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Are you going to take the nose off (just tipped forward) to check continuity through the switch? That's how I isolated the switch as the problem. If the switch is the problem, I'll post up a photo of my $12 fix.
 

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Well I guess I have a bad heated-grip switch!

After talking to Frank in Oregon (fpmlt), super guy, I removed the nose tupperware to get access to the heated grips connector (third one from the left). I was getting power (green/black wire) to the connector (power in from the top side).

So to test the switch, I jumped the orange wire junction (at the connector) and turned on the low heat at the switch - got no voltage. I did the same for the black wire/high heat; again no voltage. I also check these wires for continuity, by connecting the upper and lower wires (first orange and then black) of the connector and turning on the switch - I got no continuity.

Then I jumped the power junction to the high heat junction (see photo), as Frank did, and I got heat to the grips.

So now for a new switch: (1) eBay has used brake side multi-switch units starting from about $125, (2) a new heated grip switch from BMW is evidently on the order of $200, or (3) Frank referred to posting a $12 fix. I think I will go with Frank's $12 fix!
 

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The saga continues. Turns out, upon further investigation, that I had a broken power wire (green/black) between the connector and the switch. Right where the power wire joins a bundle of other wires. Looks like the other two wires (orange and black) were wearing through also, but not to the point of being broken. See photo.

When I rejoined the power wire, I had continuity and power. And heated grips working with the existing switch, as normal.

So another effort to keep this old bike running comes to a good conclusion. Thanks all and especially to Frank/fpmlt for his expert advice.
 

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