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My 00 LT has 83K miles on the odometer. As of late last year, it smokes pretty bad when started. I know the center stand trick and all that, but now even holding the bike upright when shutting it off and putting it up on the center stand it smokes every time I start it up. So I'm thinking that perhaps the valve seals are going bad and I'm thinking about sending the head to a machine shop and having them replace the valves, seats and seals.

My question to the learned on this site is this: How hard is it to remove the head from the brick motor and more important, are there any tricks to putting it back on?

I'm not afraid of tackling any job on the RT, but for some reason the brick is intimidating to me.

Thanks for the advice in advance.
 

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pushin9s said:
My 00 LT has 83K miles on the odometer. As of late last year, it smokes pretty bad when started. I know the center stand trick and all that, but now even holding the bike upright when shutting it off and putting it up on the center stand it smokes every time I start it up. So I'm thinking that perhaps the valve seals are going bad and I'm thinking about sending the head to a machine shop and having them replace the valves, seats and seals.

My question to the learned on this site is this: How hard is it to remove the head from the brick motor and more important, are there any tricks to putting it back on?

I'm not afraid of tackling any job on the RT, but for some reason the brick is intimidating to me.

Thanks for the advice in advance.
Try this first:
do a compression (note color & placement of plugs) check and record results
change the oil with straight 50w
start and run engine
recheck compression results
The information gathered will be invaluable as to how you proceed.
In some cases the heavier oil will stop the burning until you have time for the overhaul, be it steam guides, piston rings/ cylinders
You will need a service book, BMW cd or clymers. (I don't personally care for my Clymers but like the BMW CD)
 

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I would first do a compression test to see if any one cylinder shows any significant drop, then if one does a leak down test will far better lead you to most likely problem area. Neither test will detect anything wrong with valve guide seals though.

I would think from my experiences that it is more likely to be a ring problem than valve guide seals though. I once replaced my valve guide seals (at 90,000 miles) only to find that they were fine, and I actually had broken ring lands on the pistons.

Removing the head on the LT is an easy job, and nothing strange about putting it back on, just get a manual first. I removed the head, pistons, and crankshaft on my LT once, very easy engine to work on, no need to remove it from the bike, even to remove the crank.

Here is what it looked like:
 

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