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Cooler on the east coast!!!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am having an issue with my head lights, they no workie:(
Here goes: the high beam indicator light is illuminated but only the parking light is on. I have checked the bulbs and they are good. I can not locate a fuse for the headlights.

Here are my questions:
Has anyone had this same issue?
Is there a fuse and if so were is it located?
What can I do from this point?
Should I just bring it to the dealer?

Thanks
 

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gglove said:
I am having an issue with my head lights, they no workie:(
Here goes: the high beam indicator light is illuminated but only the parking light is on. I have checked the bulbs and they are good. I can not locate a fuse for the headlights.

Here are my questions:
Has anyone had this same issue?
Is there a fuse and if so were is it located?
What can I do from this point?
Should I just bring it to the dealer?

Thanks
No fuse for the headlights. Take a read thru this thread and it might help you in diagnosing your bike's problem. Good luck.
 

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gglove said:
I am having an issue with my head lights, they no workie:(
Here goes: the high beam indicator light is illuminated but only the parking light is on. I have checked the bulbs and they are good. I can not locate a fuse for the headlights.

Here are my questions:
Has anyone had this same issue?
Is there a fuse and if so were is it located?
What can I do from this point?
Should I just bring it to the dealer?

Thanks[/QUOTE

99% chance that you have a bad ground wire connection at the headlight. This is a fairly common problem. Check all the ground wires going to the headlight. And reinforcing the ground wires is a good idea to prevent future problems.
 

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Cooler on the east coast!!!
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the insight.
How do I locate and identify the ground wire?
Thanks
 

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Cooler on the east coast!!!
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
katnapinn said:
Check the Ground wire. It is known to come loose or brake on the LT.
Steve where is the ground wire located?

Thanks
 

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Remove the cover on the back of the headlight and the Brown wire is the ground.

Good luck
 

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See attached picture for some help on what to look for:

Follow the copper metal piece (yellow arrow) down into the headlight casing.
At the end of this, the brown wire (ground) has a Spade connector. You should be able to pull the connector using a long-nose pliers.

My guess (99 %) is that the end of the brown wire, near the connector, will be damaged (burned) and the connector will look a bit damaged too.

BMW does not sell parts - only a unit. You will have to do some wiring and welding (been there, done that...). Many years ago they have replaced complete unit under warranty. No service-bulletin that I am aware of and no recall - a bad and weak design.

The problem seems to be most common under 2 conditions:
- A higher wattage bulb than specified has been installed (Low or High beam),
- The bike is ridden for long period with the high-beam on in fairly hot weather (too much heat generated inside the headlight casing)

The most accepted theory is: a combination of a few weak items (brown wire, thin connector) and too much heat inside, causes the connector to expand and contract (heat followed by cooling cycle when you park). As this happens, the connector gets a bit loose after a while and cause arcing - this arcing is easily confirmed by the condition of the old connector.
 

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Cooler on the east coast!!!
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
John thank you the picture helps a lot! Looks like I have some removal a head of me to get the light assembly out so I can get a better look.

Thanks again.
I did do some pushing around on the brown wire and the light worked:) .....for now:-(


sailor said:
See attached picture for some help on what to look for:

Follow the copper metal piece (yellow arrow) down into the headlight casing.
At the end of this, the brown wire (ground) has a Spade connector. You should be able to pull the connector using a long-nose pliers.

My guess (99 %) is that the end of the brown wire, near the connector, will be damaged (burned) and the connector will look a bit damaged too.

BMW does not sell parts - only a unit. You will have to do some wiring and welding (been there, done that...). Many years ago they have replaced complete unit under warranty. No service-bulletin that I am aware of and no recall - a bad and weak design.

The problem seems to be most common under 2 conditions:
- A higher wattage bulb than specified has been installed (Low or High beam),
- The bike is ridden for long period with the high-beam on in fairly hot weather (too much heat generated inside the headlight casing)

The most accepted theory is: a combination of a few weak items (brown wire, thin connector) and too much heat inside, causes the connector to expand and contract (heat followed by cooling cycle when you park). As this happens, the connector gets a bit loose after a while and cause arcing - this arcing is easily confirmed by the condition of the old connector.
 

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Do not attempt to remove the nose cone. Get a mirror and fix it where it is. It's not that tough. Might consider a HID low beam while you're in there.
 

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Yes, don't take everything apart. Go out and look up under the cone and do all the work. I put a hid in without taking the cone apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
deanwoolsey said:
Do not attempt to remove the nose cone. Get a mirror and fix it where it is. It's not that tough. Might consider a HID low beam while you're in there.
Thanks for the input. I need to take more time to look at it. From what I saw it would be difficult to repair the wire without more exposure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Tom1200 said:
Yes, don't take everything apart. Go out and look up under the cone and do all the work. I put a hid in without taking the cone apart.
I have an HID but never installed, to lazy I guess. :confused:

Thanks
 

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gglove said:
Thanks for the input. I need to take more time to look at it. From what I saw it would be difficult to repair the wire without more exposure.
There was enough extra wire available on mine to clip the burnt part off & attach new ends. (both wires) I also ran a new ground wire from the battery & attached it to the spring clip so this should never happen again. (thanks Channing) I had to ride about 20 miles home when this happened to me with just parking light illumination. Not fun.
 

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Cooler on the east coast!!!
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Razmataz said:
There was enough extra wire available on mine to clip the burnt part off & attach new ends. (both wires) I also ran a new ground wire from the battery & attached it to the spring clip so this should never happen again. (thanks Channing) I had to ride about 20 miles home when this happened to me with just parking light illumination. Not fun.
Going to work on it tonight if work goes well. I like you tag line about Illinois, just be thankful you dont live in crook county:)
 

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I know this is an old thread but....................................
I'm going crazy trying to get the darn thing back on the spade without removing the headlight assembly! Any tips on that tedious process? I'm running out of hands for mirrors, lights, pliers.....

Can I just tap into the other brown wire?
 

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If you are talking about sliding the spade connector over the spade terminal here's a suggestion. Get a short box or stool to set on. Straddle the front tire with your knees. Reach underneath from the front and do it by feel. It's not that bad if you just tell yourself that you don't need to see it to connect it. No risk of a shock or short circuit. Use the mirror and flashlight to confirm your work.
 

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http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73730

See above for helpful pictures from Saddleman.

This what I did.

Repaired the brown wire issue. Used a "Y" connection with new 14 Ga wire and put stronger connectors on each of the three ends . Plugged new connector onto headlight ground and plugged existing brown wires onto each of the two new wires from the "Y". wires don't get as hot anymore.Only had to remove the right side Tupperware to get a better view of things.Should work for quite a long time or until I get around to pulling nose cone off. Then I will run a separate ground.
 

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Thanks for the responses guys. The most recessed one - I assume low beam ground- was the one needing repair. I guess my needlenoses are just too fat to fit between the bottom of the housing and the metal clip lip. My thinner ones just dont have the reach to get back there & of course my fingers are too big to get in there. The other brown wire is much simpler to access & of course it`d be the one thats good to go. Can I just tie both grounding wires together & have only one connection to the closest spade without causing issues? When I touch the 2 together both the high and low beams work. I just dont know if longterm contact in that manner will have adverse effects.
 
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