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Discussion Starter #1
I've noticed that I've got to press harder on my rear brake pedal then normal to get it to work... I can get the brakes to the point that the ABS kicks in, but I've got to put a lot of effort into it.

I changed the rear pads about 6000 or 7000 miles ago, the same time I bleed the brakes.

I've not had time to look into this yet, but I'm hoping someone else may have had this problem and can save me sometime trouble shooting it.
 

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The Villages, FL
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It sounds like the pads are glazed. You may have to take them out and score them up. Also check to see if the caliper releases easily when you remove the pads. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hard Brake Pedal

Thanks for the replies. I'll be getting into the brakes this weekend.
 

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Rear Brake pedal

rab1967 said:
Thanks for the replies. I'll be getting into the brakes this weekend.
I had a similar deal with my rear pedal after I changed the rear drive. I had gotten the brake line kinked, so when I straighten it out the brake returned to smooth action.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
After Inspection

I took a look at the linkage, the pads, rotors, the brake pedal and everything else in between. The only thing I found was that I was low on brake fluid, almost to the bottom of the reservoir, and one of my Speedbleeders on the rear was weeping.
I added brake fluid and ordered a new Speedbleeder and the 1/2 oz bottle of thread sealant they sell in case I just need to reseal the thread.

Everything moved smoothly and didn't seem to be harder then normal when I work the pedal with my hand.

Maybe its me, or perhaps the brakes are a bit stiffer in the cold weather.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update Hard Rear Brake Pedal

It seems the problem with the brake pedal was that the fluid from the leaking speed bleeder got on one of the rear brake pads. I won't know for sure until I get a new set on, but that seems the most likely problem.
 

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2005 K1200LT
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Just be advised the thread sealer is only there to seal the threads during the bleed process (bleed screw loose). The bleeder must then be screwed in tight enough to seat and seal the caliper. If it was leaking around the threads it wasn't tight enough.
 

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Mine is hard to press also. I have not checked it out but plan on it after Bike Week.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The bleeder was tight, but was still leaking around the treads. I ordered a new one and installed it and no more leak. Don't know why it was doin what it was doin. I had tightened the old one down to the point I felt safe. Didn't want to shear off the head of it.
 
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