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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I replaced my handgrips and thought I would share a few thoughts. I watched Kirk's video on the subject but his bike must have been a pre-2005 since my 2006 bike grips are different.

To remove the grip, you need to carefully cut back the old grip starting at the inside and working out. The left side is easy. The throttle side is harder since the grip wraps around a large plastic flange built into the main body of the grip. I didn't realize the grip was wrapped around the flange and ended up cutting the flange. I though it was a bad but it turns out I probably would have cut down the flange anyway since it sticks out and would not look good butted against the new grip. You can see in the picture that I cut down the flange next to the new grip on the throttle side so it is buried down and not as noticeable.

Also different from Kirk's video is the heating wire. Mine is just a bare wire that sits inside grooves of the grip base. These are very thin and easy to cut. I cut a few and had to solder them back together. (Hope it holds). At the end of the grip base, the wires are covered in a plastic shroud that bulges too much to allow the new grip to fit over it. I had to cut the shroud off and just have the insulated wires fit through the slot at the end of the grip base. Be careful to not have the bare wires touch each other since this is basically an open circuit with the wire acting as a resistor.

To get the grip over the base, I lubed up the base and the inside of the grip with WD40 and pushed hard.

The grips are generic with a 1" hole. Like Kirk said in the video, you have to order 2 sets since the set comes with a small 3/4" grip and a 1" grip.

Hope this helps. Ask an y questions.
 

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Or you could get a set of these and they fit straight on. 馃榿

173865
173866


I topped mine off with a set of bar ends.
 

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Or you could get a set of these and they fit straight on. 馃榿
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I topped mine off with a set of bar ends.
Could you elaborate on these bar ends installation - where did you bought these ?

Last time I changed my rubber grips and looked inside, it was clear that most BMW models of this era will have a potential problems with bar ends that tightens / hold from the inside of the tube. The rotation of the internal wires at end is to move 90 degrees - so it will hit the mechanism of many of these bar ends - see my RED arrow in photo below.

173867
 
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Could you elaborate on these bar ends installation - where did you bought these ?

Last time I changed my rubber grips and looked inside, it was clear that most BMW models of this era will have a potential problems with bar ends that tightens / hold from the inside of the tube. The rotation of the internal wires at end is to move 90 degrees - so it will hit the mechanism of many of these bar ends - see my RED arrow in photo below.

View attachment 173867
The bar end on the throttle side rotates with the grip. They were a little small where they expand into the tube but I made them fit.
 

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The bar end on the throttle side rotates with the grip. They were a little small where they expand into the tube but I made them fit.
Thank you for clarification.
I must say I am a bit surprised by this design. Most of the metal bar ends (including the OEM from BMW on earlier K and Boxer models), will grab inside the fixed inner metal tube.
 

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Thank you for clarification.
I must say I am a bit surprised by this design. Most of the metal bar ends (including the OEM from BMW on earlier K and Boxer models), will grab inside the fixed inner metal tube.
Yes it wasn't a straight forward fit. The grips I bought came with plastic end caps and I didn't like them. I found the bar ends on eBay and made them fit. The metal tube was far enough back inside the throttle grip tube so I was able to make the bar end grip the inside of grip heater tube. It worked and has been there for a couple of years.
 

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2003 BMW K1200 LT (88K on 2020/08/13)
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Wazza, would it be safe to say that the effectiveness of the bar end cap is all for naught, it's there for esthetic value only, since it only mounts to the rubber grip and not into the steel bar, which if dropped could also pinch or severe the grip heater wires, or am I missing something?
 

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Wazza, would it be safe to say that the effectiveness of the bar end cap is all for naught, it's there for esthetic value only, since it only mounts to the rubber grip and not into the steel bar, which if dropped could also pinch or severe the grip heater wires, or am I missing something?
You are spot on. Of course it's only cosmetic and if you look at the way most bar ends attach I doubt they have any real protective value anyway.
For a start you are effectively extending the length of your handle bars thereby increasing the risk of them hitting the ground in the event of a tip over. On the LT there is little to no chance of them hitting the ground because of the tip over bars. If for some reason your LT does tip that far then I think you have far more trouble on your hands than a damaged handle bar.
Also I chose the carbon fiber tips to match the latch plate of the radio compartment which I treated with carbon fiber, the plain black one was looking tatty.
 

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Stock grips on any LT are OLD by now-- but they likely work just fine, the only trouble being they constantly blacken up one's hands.

I looked into replacing them, very expensive/tedious. Solution? Grip tape. LOVE IT!!!! The feel is fantastic, and the price is under $10. This is a PERFECT solution. It won't change any functionality, whatsoever, like grip puppies do (which I've tried and for me they are goofy, giant sponges).

I'd sure encourage any LT owner to give grip tape a whirl before making the big plunge. After experimenting with 2 brands, this one worked best for me, 7 buckeroos and 100% satisfied: Gamma Sports Supreme Overgrip: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HEKHBQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The grips I purchased were $10 a set or $20 to get the 2 1" grips needed. I like the feel of of the diamond pattern. Reassuring that it isn't slipping.
 
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