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Discussion Starter #1
OK guys, let me preface this by saying that this is not specifically a K1200LT problem. I have attached some pictures of the Hall effect plug going to the Motronics unit on my wife's R1100RSL. I need suggestions on how to fix this. On the way back from the national her bike quit about 325 miles from home in a heavy downpour. I was guessing a coil problem till I tore into it today. I found this wiring where the insulation had fallen off. Apparently in their infinite wisdom the Germans chose to use a spiral wrapped insulation on the individual wires in a shielded cable. The insulation evidently deteriorated and evaporated leaving bare wires for moisture to wreak havoc on her ignition. How do I fix this? So far all I can come up with is liquid paint on tape. Anybody have a suggestion? I refuse to change the entire sensor array and harness because of garbage engineering. That and I am a cheap bastard. Thanks for listening, Robert.

BTW I just invented a new drink....The Black Bush...A Guiness and Busch mixed...not bad.
 

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Scouter-50 said:
OK guys, let me preface this by saying that this is not specifically a K1200LT problem. I have attached some pictures of the Hall effect plug going to the Motronics unit on my wife's R1100RSL. I need suggestions on how to fix this. On the way back from the national her bike quit about 325 miles from home in a heavy downpour. I was guessing a coil problem till I tore into it today. I found this wiring where the insulation had fallen off. Apparently in their infinite wisdom the Germans chose to use a spiral wrapped insulation on the individual wires in a shielded cable. The insulation evidently deteriorated and evaporated leaving bare wires for moisture to wreak havoc on her ignition. How do I fix this? So far all I can come up with is liquid paint on tape. Anybody have a suggestion? I refuse to change the entire sensor array and harness because of garbage engineering. That and I am a cheap bastard. Thanks for listening, Robert.

BTW I just invented a new drink....The Black Bush...A Guiness and Busch mixed...not bad.
Man that don't look good.
Maybe small shrink tubing?
Course you would have to cut the wires then..not a good idea I guess.
 

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How about using a pin insertion/removal tool to remove the wires from the connector block with the pins still attached... one at a time.

You can the use some very small diameter shrink tubing to re-insuate the conductors. I have a bunch and will be happy to mail some to you.

You can use a very fine pick to compress the tangs and remove the pins. Takes good vision (or a good magnifier) and a fair bit of patience. Not as slick as using the pin tool, but it works.

Here is an idea... ride it up here and I will fix the electrical whilst you adjust my LT's valves! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #4
deputy5211 said:
How about using a pin insertion/removal tool to remove the wires from the connector block with the pins still attached... one at a time.

You can the use some very small diameter shrink tubing to re-insuate the conductors. I have a bunch and will be happy to mail some to you.

You can use a very fine pick to compress the tangs and remove the pins. Takes good vision (or a good magnifier) and a fair bit of patience. Not as slick as using the pin tool, but it works.

Here is an idea... ride it up here and I will fix the electrical whilst you adjust my LT's valves! :D

Thanks, Tony. I took the plug apart and could not see how the pins are captured in the main plug. It does not look like a normal plug where you can just depress the locks and remove the wires. I have lots-o-heat-shrink ( about two cubic feet, I do lots of wiring). I would love to come up there but the bike is on the lift naked. (just as ugly as a K1200LT naked...just skinnier).

Robert
 

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Trade you for a busted FD. No? Ok then. Get some wiring slightly larger gauge than what you have there on the plug. Then strip some pieces off the proper length by cutting the insulation parallel to the wire. Then goop the wires up with a good adhesive and snap the insulation onto the adhesive while it's still wet. Let dry and done.
 

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Scouter-50 said:
...I found this wiring where the insulation had fallen off. Apparently in their infinite wisdom the Germans chose to use a spiral wrapped insulation on the individual wires in a shielded cable. The insulation evidently deteriorated and evaporated leaving bare wires for moisture to wreak havoc on her ignition.
I see deteriorated insulation, but not spiral wrapped. It looks more like the plastic has become brittle after being heated too much and/or too often, so it cracked and has fallen away in chunks.

I would just wrap each with some Scotch 33+ electrical tape, half-lap coverage or so, as best as I could, then maybe one or two turns over all of the wires to keep them from moving around. IF the tape job fails you can re-tape the wires replace the whole shebang...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
JimH said:
I see deteriorated insulation, but not spiral wrapped. It looks more like the plastic has become brittle after being heated too much and/or too often, so it cracked and has fallen away in chunks.

I would just wrap each with some Scotch 33+ electrical tape, half-lap coverage or so, as best as I could, then maybe one or two turns over all of the wires to keep them from moving around. IF the tape job fails you can re-tape the wires replace the whole shebang...

Jim, I did not post all the pictures I took. Here's a better one of the spiral wrap.

Thanks, Robert
 

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Discussion Starter #8
deanwoolsey said:
Trade you for a busted FD. No? Ok then. Get some wiring slightly larger gauge than what you have there on the plug. Then strip some pieces off the proper length by cutting the insulation parallel to the wire. Then goop the wires up with a good adhesive and snap the insulation onto the adhesive while it's still wet. Let dry and done.

Thanks, Dean. I am sure that I will have my very own (homegrown) busted final drive. That idea may work. The problem that I see is that the entire wire inside the shielding is spiral wrapped also. I am just disgusted by this "engineering". (I know it is a 19 year old bike but I have others 47 years old without these types of problems)
Rant off, Robert.
 

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Robert,
If open this link <http://users.rcn.com/dehager/service/oilhead_hall_sensors.pdf> You will find instruction on repairing this kind of failure. You should replace the compete wire since most fail behind the wire clamp just above the alternator dive pulley.You will need some 26ga with teflon insulation to withstand the heat in the engine. I am replacing the entire unit on a buddies 99 rt with a new bosch unit from beemerboneyard. Just over $200 if you used the BMWMOA discount code when checking out.
 

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With a little patience, a sharp knife, and some 14/2 house wiring you could make your own spiral wrap for that and install it the same way. Alternating the direction of the spiral wraps on the individual wires should help keep the wires insulated as well.
 

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You're going to need to remove that piece end to end from the bike and replace all the wires with modern teflon coated wire... You can just buy some individual small lengths..


If you can't get the contacts out of the plugs then just cut the wires off leaving maybe 1/2 inch.. Then solder and shrink wrap the connections to the new wires...Then wrap the whole mess in tape or a larger size heat shrink...

Do one side, Srink the individual connections.. Then shrink wrap 2/3 of the bundle leaving enough to work on the other end... Slide an additional piece of the big wrap down to the far end so that soldering the connections won't shrink it... Do your connections on side B and then slide that piece of shrink back over the bundle in the other direction...

Hope that makes sense...

That's just going to leave you stranded again... It's got to be replaced..

If you want to send it to me, I'll rebuild it for you...

You can probably order it from BMW too...:)

John
 

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Discussion Starter #12
JPSpen said:
You're going to need to remove that piece end to end from the bike and replace all the wires with modern teflon coated wire... You can just buy some individual small lengths..


If you can't get the contacts out of the plugs then just cut the wires off leaving maybe 1/2 inch.. Then solder and shrink wrap the connections to the new wires...Then wrap the whole mess in tape or a larger size heat shrink...

Do one side, Srink the individual connections.. Then shrink wrap 2/3 of the bundle leaving enough to work on the other end... Slide an additional piece of the big wrap down to the far end so that soldering the connections won't shrink it... Do your connections on side B and then slide that piece of shrink back over the bundle in the other direction...

Hope that makes sense...

That's just going to leave you stranded again... It's got to be replaced..

If you want to send it to me, I'll rebuild it for you...

You can probably order it from BMW too...:)

John
Thanks for the offer John. I have just about come to the conclusion that replacement is the best long term option. I do not want the wife stranded anywhere. I guess the Beemer Boneyard with their BMWMOA discount is the best option in the long run. Wife likes her bike and has no desire to change.

Robert
 
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