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I could use some help diagnosing this noise I'm hearing on my 2000 LT ...

I've been aware of a grinding sort of noise for quite some time. I thought, at first, it was my front bearings. I replaced those, but it didn't fix it. I found a crack in my front fender, which was certainly making a noise. I fixed that, but there was a part of the noise that was still there. I've replaced the final drive, and it routinely has clean looking gear oil, so I'm pretty convinced the noise is not coming from there. I was stuck in traffic this morning, and decided to pay close attention to the noise. I can only hear it clearly at slow speeds. From a stop, as I let the clutch out, I hear the noise start to engage. It continues as long as I am accelerating. It stops if I pull the clutch or decelerate. I also hear it in second gear if I'm going slow. I'm still not sure if the grinding noise is relative to the engine RPM or the speed. I'm leaning toward RPM, but I'm not 100% sure.

I've had the LT for about 4 years and I've never changed either the gearbox or clutch oil. I'm certain that its time.

I should also mention that reverse does not want to work when it is cold out. I don't know if that is related.

-Steve
Titusville, FL
 

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Steve, I haven't heard this sound myself yet but there is a possibility that what you are describing is the input shaft bearing for the transmission going out. Look for unusual stuff on the trans drain plug magnet.
 

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Hi, Change the gear box oil, see what comes out. The second time I had a gear box go bad , it made a squealing sound when taking off from a stop. The first time , it went from slipping to totally failing in a few miles. Just before it stopped going forward it got real grinding sounding .
 
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Early signs of the transmission bearing is a whine that is noticeable under both acceleration and deceleration in second gear. It goes away when you are not under a load. That was a new sound for me and I caught the bearing in the very early stages. There was a significant amount of metal on the transmission drain pug magnet.
 

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I've had the LT for about 4 years and I've never changed either the gearbox or clutch oil. I'm certain that its time.

I should also mention that reverse does not want to work when it is cold out. I don't know if that is related.

-Steve
Titusville, FL
What kind of clutch oil were you planning on using ?.
 

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What kind of clutch oil were you planning on using ?.
I wondered who would jump in there....

Hey Dave, buddy of mine before he retired at Christmas did the heads for the engine Dillon rammed his way to a Dale Earnhardt Sr type victory Sunday....:) Best part I called it before it happened before the restart. I knew he would ram someone........blind groundhogs only get a shot at so many lucky nuts..
 

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Hi, I took the grub screw out and put a brake bleeder screw in . It was easier to change the clutch ( DOT 4 ) fluid with. I also, put a nice clean quarter it the master cylinder over the return hole when I am bleeding the system to help keep the back flow from getting on everything. The brake fluid does not get along with the windshild too good :wave
 

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Sure, I'll admit I don't know crap about working on clutches yet. So, explain this ...
That is called a vent screw attachment and I believe your LT year has one on the right front brake caliper and also on the clutch bleed line that hangs out on the right side of the bike under the Tupperware. Later modles did not have one on the front caliper. There is as already mentioned, a grub screw/cap in the top that must be removed to uncover the check ball. A standard bleed screw is used to depress the check ball and release fluid while bleeding so you will need one of those to bleed the clutch and also the front right brake caliper as long as that one has not been removed. The vent screw ( not the grub screw/cap) attachment on the caliper is in with loctite so requires heat to be removed without damaging the caliper but can be removed and replaced with a standard bleed screw if desired. Not sure if that is the case for the clutch line as i have never removed one there to see if it would accept a bleed screw on the end of the line without it and seal properly so I won't say that you can do that with no personal experience. I left well enough alone and bought the spare bleed screw to do the service.
 

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Sure, I'll admit I don't know crap about working on clutches yet. So, explain this ...
Think of that as much the same as the brake lines.... its the hydraulic fluid for the activation part of the system, rather than the part (brake or clutch) which are dry and does the actual work.... as opposed to engine or gearbox that is filled with oil. :grin:
 
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your description sort of sounds like an input shaft bearing failure.... Gearbox
 

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These guys are taking advantage of you for a bit of fun: wink: . Buy a Clymers manual for your bike and it will have instructions for all your needs:
https://www.amazon.com/Clymer-K1200...1&keywords=clymer+repair+manual+2000++k1200gt
You have been remiss not changing your transmission lube oil anually, and the brakes and clutch hydraulic fluid need to be changed every two years. They use DOT4 as said on clutch and brake reservoir covers.
The transmission uses a GL-5 spec 75W90 gear oil. How to do the jobs can be found in the Clymers book or doing a search for threads on it, on the forum. The book has pictures. Probably YouTube also.
Sounds like your transmission is going south. Not an easy job to deal with. And if it is true, best option is a low miles unit used. Although there are folks who can install fresh bearings for you in the transmission probably at about the same cost. Your 2000GT is not a valuable motorcycle and this problem might be the end of the show unless you enjoy the work and expense. Here is how to get the transmission out of the bike, while it is out change the 19x4mm O-ring in this story and evaluate your clutch drive disk:
http://www.i-bmw.com/showthread.php?t=38451
 
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Sure, I'll admit I don't know crap about working on clutches yet. So, explain this ...
If your noise is the input shaft bearing, then you are about to learn much more about your LT.

Saddleman was just having a little fun with you. It is mainly a terminology issue. Generally, hydraulic systems use "fluid" as their main purpose is force transfer rather than lubrication, although lubrication is provided by most hydraulic fluids. Oils are primarily for lubrication.

A fine point to be sure, but hydraulic systems like brakes, some clutch actuation systems, etc., use fluid as compared to engines and gear boxes where oil is used since its primary purpose is lubrication.
 

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No bueno. :frown:
 

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Looks a lot like mine did when the front bearing started to go. Not a hard job (other than getting the gearbox out) to fix. Parts are about $60 for the bearing and seal.
 
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Looks a lot like mine did when the front bearing started to go. Not a hard job (other than getting the gearbox out) to fix. Parts are about $60 for the bearing and seal.
Yeah, I've watched a few of Kirk Jonson's and Dan Sullivan's videos on Youtube on this and decided to take a stab at it. I too noticed the parts were not all that expensive. I'm still debating whether or not to go a bit further and do the clutch plate while I'm there. That's a bit more expensive but given the amount of work to get there, it would almost seem silly not to ... or am I mistaken on that?

I'm hoping I'll have the time later today to at least start the process of getting the transmission out. I won't be able to order the parts until WED.

This should be an interesting fix. I've never done a transmission before.
 

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Yeah, I've watched a few of Kirk Jonson's and Dan Sullivan's videos on Youtube on this and decided to take a stab at it. I too noticed the parts were not all that expensive. I'm still debating whether or not to go a bit further and do the clutch plate while I'm there. That's a bit more expensive but given the amount of work to get there, it would almost seem silly not to ... or am I mistaken on that?

I'm hoping I'll have the time later today to at least start the process of getting the transmission out. I won't be able to order the parts until WED.

This should be an interesting fix. I've never done a transmission before.
How many miles on your LT?
 
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