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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi
I nearly got through my first week of LT ownership with no problems.
I was about 20 miles from home when my gearshift linkage snapped.
I managed to get home in 3rd gear, it was awful as there was a lot of red stop lights (Traffic lights).
Anyway, my manual hasn't arrived yet so I started stripping the area down and found one of the linkages had snapped. The nut it goes into seems to be of the captive type so won't come off and I think I will have to drill the remainder of the bolt out (Pictured), either using easy outs (rarely easy) or some other method.

Before I go and ruin what is an otherwise perfect bike any advice would be welcome for the task ahead.
I have added some pictures , so hopefully my predicament will be clear.

Thanks in anticipation, Adam. :)





 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Also, does anyone know what part or parts are required?
I'm not sure if I need the whole lever or just one end.
The ball end seems to just have a clip fitted.
Can I replace just the ball and does anyone know of a supplier in the UK, or should I go to my bmw dealer.
Many thanks for any help.
 

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An easy out will work to get the broken piece out as it just screws in. I've managed to use an awl and just put enough pressure on it to drive it out the back of the linkage while still in the bike. The ball is captured with a brass wire lock that you should be able to see when you clean up the end of the linkage in the first picture. Just swing it away from the linkage and then pull it out. Take a pair of pliers on the end thread ends that are left and pull hard it will snap right out.

On reassembly, make sure you grease it well, I use white lithium grease in the ball cap. Put the black rubber peice back as it helps keep dirt out. Push hard to make the ball snap in place and then put the locking wire back in. Bolt it up and you're good to go.

As a suggestion, I would pull all the shift linkage pieces out, clean then up, lube them all, make sure that the balls are tight and reassemble. I do every time I service the bike. I've never had linkage break since I started doing that. Most people think that the balls back out over time and get broken because they aren't seated fully.

Go to BMW to get the ball, PN 07119901736. I haven't found a source for them anywere else.
 

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Do what Steve says above, you need to check nothing else is going bad.

The part the threaded part of the ball is stuck in can be removed so you can work on a bench to get the broken part out. It piviots on a bolt and sleeve just below the broken, there is a 10mm nut on the back and a T5 hex on the front. With all the grease you have there it should be simple to remove.

If you go to a BMW dealer Web page you should be able to pull up an exploded view of the complete shifter, that will assist in understanding how to take it all apart.

You can also take a look at the technical document on the site here .
 

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Had to drive half way across the state of washington in 4th gear once. Luckly I only needed gas once.

Buy replacement parts here: http://www.powergridinc.com/

A higher quality part

Good Luck

Steve



Rossi46 said:
Hi
I nearly got through my first week of LT ownership with no problems.
I was about 20 miles from home when my gearshift linkage snapped.
I managed to get home in 3rd gear, it was awful as there was a lot of red stop lights (Traffic lights).
Anyway, my manual hasn't arrived yet so I started stripping the area down and found one of the linkages had snapped. The nut it goes into seems to be of the captive type so won't come off and I think I will have to drill the remainder of the bolt out (Pictured), either using easy outs (rarely easy) or some other method.

Before I go and ruin what is an otherwise perfect bike any advice would be welcome for the task ahead.
I have added some pictures , so hopefully my predicament will be clear.

Thanks in anticipation, Adam. :)





 

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Rossi46 said:
Hi
I nearly got through my first week of LT ownership with no problems.
I was about 20 miles from home when my gearshift linkage snapped.
I managed to get home in 3rd gear, it was awful as there was a lot of red stop lights (Traffic lights).
Anyway, my manual hasn't arrived yet so I started stripping the area down and found one of the linkages had snapped. The nut it goes into seems to be of the captive type so won't come off and I think I will have to drill the remainder of the bolt out (Pictured), either using easy outs (rarely easy) or some other method.

Before I go and ruin what is an otherwise perfect bike any advice would be welcome for the task ahead.
I have added some pictures , so hopefully my predicament will be clear.

Thanks in anticipation, Adam. :)
Well, a pain to be sure. The good thing is you weren't in some remote place and now you have a chance to clean things up. What a mess you found in there! It is certainly no wonder it broke. It appears the prior owner did not service the linkage.
 

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After viewing your predicament I would:

1. Stop everything and clean out the area where the shifter is - looks like this area is need
of a very complete cleaning. Once clean look over for wear and tear.

2. Order new parts - see pict


3. Here is parts list from US based BMW dealer and the currency is dollars


And for my information :

1. Was the bike dropped on the left side recently?

2. What side shoe / boot do you wear?

As others have stated there are replacement kits that some riders have made with
very rugged components. Been riding a K1200LT for 10 years - no issues but I
clean this area - re-lube every year and have replaced Part #11 in all three places
in the past.

I carry in my bike parts bag most of the shifter parts.

These parts on occasion are available on eBay!!
 

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Welcome to the wonderful world of LT's Adam and welcome to the forum. I am glad to see you are not shy about digging in to your new bike after less than a week of ownership. That makes me think that you are a good fit for both the bike and the forum. Your linkage problem is not uncommon. I know I had a similar problem a few years ago and I have read posts from others who have as well. Having a break like that will inspire you to include lubing the linkage every year or so. Parts are available and they are not costly.

Neither of my LT's looked as grimy in there as yours appears to be so I am wondering where all that oily grit is coming from. It could be that your eyes are the first to see behind that plate since the bike was built. If so, you may want to peruse this site and find out some of the other home mechanics tricks that forum members have been up to. A good place to start is the Hall of Wisdom. Reading there will keep your mind occupied while you are waiting for parts. Don't let all the stuff in there scare you though. In more than 50K LT miles, the only time I ever had to limp home was due to a broken shifter linkage. Since you have that one behind you, a little preventive maintenance may be all the wrenching you need for a long time.

Please let us know how you work through this fix. Everybody enjoys a good success story.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Many thanks for all the replies, it's nice to know i'm not on my own. :)

As for the condition in that area, I too was surprised how bad it was and will clean it up before re-assembly.
I love this bike and this will not put me off. ;)


Finally, to answer your questions, dfinazzo

1. Was the bike dropped on the left side recently? Not as far as I know and not since Saturday (when I bought it)

2. What side shoe / boot do you wear? I wear a Size 11.5, regular motorcycle boots (UK size 11)

Thanks again for the help guys and i'll post back when it's sorted, unless I run into any more snags.
 

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I carefully center punched the broken bolt and used a left hand drill bit, the bit caught the remnant of the bolt and spun right out on the drill bit. (I now carry the bit in my tool box along with spare ball ends). Mine broke in fourth gear and it was fairly easy to pull the side plate and shift it into third gear by hand in order to nurse it back home.
 

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Dfinazzo's post above is very helpful in understanding this common problem (another BMW won't admit). Item 3 is the offending part. As it states in the parts list, it's essentially a 6mm bolt and it isn't up to the job. Mine went 2 months ago at 37,000 miles on a bike with a full BMW service history. Btw, it took my dealer 3 weeks to get the part. In the meantime I had found a spare on an old bike a neighbour had and got myself back on the road.

By all means, clean and grease the surrounding area while you are at it, but imo that's not the cause. If you look at your last photo carefully you'll see that it snapped inside the lever. This is because it is held by a captive nut at the back of the lever and not by the inner surface of the lever itself. (If you look really closely at your photo you note no threads on the hole in the lever.). That means all the bending forces act at the point where the bolt leaves the nut and it eventually snaps.

The note to consider an upgrade to an 8mm bolt is good advise. This would mean tapping out the captive nut and the inside of the lever and would give more contact area as well as a beafier part.
 

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highroamer said:
Item 3 is the offending part. As it states in the parts list, it's essentially a 6mm bolt and it isn't up to the job.

.
It is up to the job IF it remains tight. Once it gets loose then the bending force can snap it. At least that has been my experience over the last 8 years on LTs.
 

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Ditto what John says! You just need to clean, inspect & lube the linkage on a regular basis and it will do it's job well. When they are allowed to loosen up is when they break.

John
jzeiler said:
It is up to the job IF it remains tight. Once it gets loose then the bending force can snap it. At least that has been my experience over the last 8 years on LTs.
 

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Sorry guys, mine was so tight I had to drill it out. It's the bending force on a part that's not up to it. Pure and simple. That is being applied every time you shift, whether it's tight or has loosened.
 

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highroamer said:
Sorry guys, mine was so tight I had to drill it out. It's the bending force on a part that's not up to it. Pure and simple. That is being applied every time you shift, whether it's tight or has loosened.
It was tight becuase it snapped. The ball had worked its way loose to start with or it would not bend. If the ball is tight the flange is fully engaged on the belcrank and cannot move.
 

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:corn:
 

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John,

I'm always ready to learn. Can you explain to me how something you say was loose and caused the breakage was then tight because it snapped? That's how I'm reading your posts, but maybe I'm picking you up wrong.

Kevin
 

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If I read him right ... the broken off stud was tight because the ball end was loose and the bending action on it caused the stud to stretch and distort the threads.
 

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rcoolbaugh said:
If I read him right ... the broken off stud was tight because the ball end was loose and the bending action on it caused the stud to stretch and distort the threads.
Well said.

Also there is some dry red loctite on the threads from the factory. That should prevent the ball stud from ever working loose but it does not. When the ball stud is tight it cannot move relative to the bell crank. Once the ball stud becomes loose from the bell crank it can move relative to the ball crank. This flexing eventually fatigues the stud and it deforms and shears.
 
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