BMW Luxury Touring Community banner

1 - 20 of 58 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,047 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
All - I have 28K on my 2009 RT and all this talk about fuel pump controller failure leaving me stranded is starting to get me thinking. Thought I'd go ahead and get a spare for a field swapout if necessary and argue with the dealer later if it happens when I'm on warranty.

MaxBMW lists two part numbers: 16147720776 ($131.59) and 16147720777 ($170.17). They put a photo with the former and it looks like what everyone has been talking about - black powdercoat. Anyone know what the difference is between the two that justifies $40?

Thanks.

JayJay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,711 Posts
That is a very good question. I ordered two of the $131. ones a few days ago. When they arrive I will post. (one for my buddy with a GS).
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,697 Posts
All this chatter has caused me to think about the issue as well.

My question is related to the failure mode of the controller. I am thinking that most of the failures are happening in moisture-rich environments. So,,, is the real problem keeping moisture away from the controller... or is the root cause a crappy FPC that fails even without moisture?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
747 Posts
Hopz,
There are many failure modes for that silver colored fpc. You're right that most, maybe even all, are moisture related. But remember that without a bypass cable or the ability to make a bypass cable from the old fpc, or a spare fpc, you're stuck if it dies. Insurance with some spare wire so you can cut off the old connector and rig power is only pennies for some wire, a bypass cable is a little over $20, and a spare fpc is $150- any one of those 3 can get you going. Remember that there have been at least a couple THOUSAND of these failures, not just a few, based on published data from the UK GS website, extrapolated to all countries/models/sales numbers. Based on that, I think some insurance while traveling is only prudent.

Here is a summary of failure issues
The fpc carries 7A that it takes to run the pump- that means it gets warm. When it cools there are possibilities of condensation or sucking water into it. It sits in a well that doesn't drain and collects water from riding in the rain or just washing the bike, The uncoated fpc housing can corrode easily and when it does, it will break the seal that protects the circuit board from water intrusion. Sometimes failure is immediate or you might get a few miles or a couple starts worth of warning. In any case, the sealer used is a cheap production method and not up to the task - it will leak even on the new replacement parts that are coated to prevent corrosion. The gasket around the fpc does a bad job at keeping water out of the lower part of the well- only 2 clamping screws into plastic, another bad design bit. In summary, the well is a stupid design, the part is badly made, and the replacement only addresses some failure modes (not all). It is not clear whether the board itself has issues from poor heat management in the design (the reason the housing is finned) and I have not yet dissected a new fpc to see if there have been circuit board changes. Failures of the new part are reported, also but I think its too early for meaningful comparisons about rate which in any case will be complicated by the fact that most folks put the replacement in with silicon sealer or a good grease coating on the gasket. something missing from the original factory assembly method.

Maybe if you live in AZ and never wash your bike, you can forget about the possibility of the fpc failing but considering how easy (even cheap) it is to be prepared, I wouldn't choose to be one of those folks who ignores this issue- unless perhaps I never went more than a few miles from home. Remember that dealers and parts places are typically not available if you get a weekend failure on the road.

This bit reminds me a lot of the ballast resistors on old Chrysler built stuff from the 70s that only cost $1.25 at the time and failed regularly, preventing the starter from running. But in that case, there was typically a car parts place somewhere nearby that had one. Still, some owners (including me) threw a spare in the glovebox when they went any distance. Eventually I got the chance to use my spare- think I was way up in the Canadian woods fishing at the time.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,697 Posts
Your logic is good.

Looks like you have some knowledge or experience. If one has a failure and indeed, has the spare jumper with a powerlet end... does the CANBUS play well with a 7a draw?
Not arguing, just asking.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,711 Posts
Hopz, the bikes that only let 5 amps flow, you can not use the jumper to a power outlet circuit to run the fuel pump. The 2010 and newer (and I think the 2009) are rated 10 amps at the power outlet. But keep in mind that both outlets on the bike share that 10 amps together. That is why the pig tail offered comes with either a plug or open wires to hook to the battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
747 Posts
The 10A outlets go back further on the RT, possibly to 07 or earlier but check your owners manual. My 08 is a 10A outlet and I ran the pump from the outlet so I know it works.

Unless you know its 10A, you should plan to connect to the fuel pump controller harness, a fuse panel or some other way of supplying at least 7A. You will kick out the ZFE outlet circuit if its one of the older 5A types.

Hopz- yeah I've got the T-shirt. Not that I really ever wanted to learn about this. I'd much prefer a reliable part and design that I could ignore. Still, its simple to handle if you're prepared but you get stuck otherwise.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,711 Posts
JayJay, that PN for the $131. fuel pump controller, I received the controller by itself. Two screws and the green gasket also included just like the photo in the parts list, I could not venture a guess as to what you get for $170. Maybe a kiss? :histerica I do have to say that I like the service that Max gives. I also got at least 40 bucks worth of BMW cleaning and detail products that are on promo right now. Saving my lunch money to order a new seat from them.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,697 Posts
OK, OK, I'm convinced...

Is the (Blue) plug a standard thing or is it BMW proprietary? I would like to make my own jumper.

Does anyone know the nomenclature/number for the plug?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,047 Posts
Discussion Starter #13

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,711 Posts
Yes, your correct. That two prong female plug, costs about 16 bucks.
08 83300402343 REPAIR PLUG, 2-PIN - NO. 610618 1 $16.10ADD TO CART
One of those and you are in business.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,047 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Gracias, got it.

JayJay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
747 Posts
You could actually go as far as T-ing that blue plug permanently into the wiring harness for the fpc, using the info on the hexcode site for the wiring color code guide. And just leave it unconnected to the fuel pump until needed. Then just pull out the bad fpc, push on the waiting alternate power plug and keep on rolling...That should reduce the total "fix" time to under 5 minutes once the tools are in your hands (T-25, T-20, maybe a pliers to pull the connector) to start the switch.

At $16 for that connector from BMW, IMO its not worth the trouble to make your own bypass cable when you can buy it for only a few $ more. Its also freakin objectionable. BMW ought to give these things free to any owner of a bike with one of those silver colored fpcs. Maybe even for any bike with the fpc design because the replacement part is no better at keeping water out of that stupid well design and that's what corrodes the blue plug. Years ago I had a Kawasaki enduro for which a few cracked fender welds had been reported after extensive off road use. Kawasaki mailed every owner a free set of reinforcing brackets and an apology letter- that kind of customer focus is remembered. Its great to support local dealers by buying parts from them but I object helping the factory make any more profits off their screwup. Selling backup fpcs and bypass bits is just a way they understand how to reduce their costs for a screwup and maybe turn it into a money maker. Remember there are THOUSANDS of these failures, not just a handful.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,711 Posts
Racer7, I happen to agree with you. The plug (at the very least) should be free for the asking. And the part should be free even if out of warranty. I am totally upset with BMW for not taking care of people a few years ago when there were issues with some bikes not running well and not able to be fixed by dealers (mostly K bikes). The bikes should have been taken back and either cash or choice of bike offered. Sorry for the thread hijack. I carry a jumper and a complete part for this fuel control repair. I hope never to need it but am in a position to help someone on the road too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
729 Posts
No way BMW is giving you a free bypass plug.
1) It's an admission to a problem.
2) and most important, it runs the pump at full flow and bypasses the controller.

If you must do this and it's all you. I, as in me not you, would connect the bypass to the existing controller harness for safety reasons. It will still shut off with the key and also if the engine stalls due to an accident.
BMS-K will cut the pump if the engine stops running.
There is a reason the pump only cycles for a few seconds after turning the key on. It pressurizes the system then waits for an engine run signal before turning it back on.
Simply put - safety
If you wire it to an accessory socket it can keep the pump running for up to a minute after the key is shut off or the engine stalls and that can be a very bad thing.
Hitting the ground is bad enough, hitting the ground and having fuel spray out for a minute is worse.
As always YMMV

I would say unless you're sure of BMW's use of the controller and the consequences of bypassing said controller don't do it.
and again YMMV
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,047 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Yeah, I agree that no way is BMW going to give out the plug. After-purchase support - vat iss dat? Contrasts with Olympia Motor Sports - I took the armour out of my dirty trousers, noticed a ripped foam pad, emailed the company and had a replacement pad Fed-Exed to me before I even got them dried from the wash. Plus an apology from the owner!

New2RT's safety point about the fuel pump continuing to run with the FPC bypassed is a good one. I think I'll go back to Plan A (get an extra FPC, replace it on the road if necessary, and argue with BMW later).

JayJay
 
1 - 20 of 58 Posts
Top