BMW Luxury Touring Community banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I don't see anything. Just smell it. Awful powerful gas odor after bike is started, goes away after it is shut off. Did a search and found a couple threads on leaks but nothing that fits my situation. Before I tear off Tupperware, any suggestions?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,108 Posts
Probably the quick connect on the right side under the tip-over wing. The right panel needs to come off to get to it. The originals are plastic and the male half cracks. Most leak some. Some leak enough to cause a fire. You can get the entire metal set from Beemer Boneyard or just the male half from your BMW dealer. A 5/16 double barb with fuel injection-rated clamps makes a good temporary fix.
 

·
Old Slow Guy in A Fast Car
Joined
·
8,601 Posts
Did you just filled up the bike? If so you may have "over filled" it. Remove the gas cap & listen for a "Swoosh" sound from the tank. If you hear it then the canister is clogged. & needs to be removed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
108 Posts
deanwoolsey said:
Probably the quick connect on the right side under the tip-over wing. The right panel needs to come off to get to it. The originals are plastic and the male half cracks. Most leak some. Some leak enough to cause a fire. You can get the entire metal set from Beemer Boneyard or just the male half from your BMW dealer. A 5/16 double barb with fuel injection-rated clamps makes a good temporary fix.
Is there some more info for replacing the quich disconnect fittings?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
415 Posts
I had the same thing a couple of weeks ago so I ordered the metal disconnects from Beemer Boneyard. I guess I should have taken the plastic off first as fuel was just seeping out from around the line on the tank...new hose clamp and it was fixed. just take the right top panel off and investigate.

oh well

r
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
itspossible said:
I had the same thing a couple of weeks ago so I ordered the metal disconnects from Beemer Boneyard. I guess I should have taken the plastic off first as fuel was just seeping out from around the line on the tank...new hose clamp and it was fixed. just take the right top panel off and investigate.

oh well

r
Thanks, good advice. I will remove the panel later today or tomorrow and let you know the results.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Failed miserably in trying to remove right side Tupperware. Could not remove the Jpegs so I cannot get the crhrome piece behind the rubber bumper off. Jpeg bolts are frozen or I just ain't brave enough to apply enough torque to get them out for fear of stripping out the hex. Unless I I can get them out with break free it is going to be a trip to the stealer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
mrwad said:
Failed miserably in trying to remove right side Tupperware. Could not remove the Jpegs so I cannot get the chrome piece behind the rubber bumper off. Jpeg bolts are frozen or I just ain't brave enough to apply enough torque to get them out for fear of stripping out the hex. Unless I I can get them out with break free it is going to be a trip to the stealer.
Got the Jpeg off now. Not sure if I want to rip the rest of the way into it this late in the afternoon.

Ref earlier replies: Decanisterized so it isn't anything to do with that and I have less than a quarter tank of fuel in the bike.

Has to be the fuel line.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
542 Posts
mrwad said:
Failed miserably in trying to remove right side Tupperware. Could not remove the Jpegs so I cannot get the crhrome piece behind the rubber bumper off. Jpeg bolts are frozen or I just ain't brave enough to apply enough torque to get them out for fear of stripping out the hex. Unless I I can get them out with break free it is going to be a trip to the stealer.

You should be able to use a pair of vise grips on the J-Peg bolt. You might try heating the bolt with a hair dryer or a small torch as they may have lock tite on them. Watch out for the small detent ball when you take the peg off. Use the vise grips in conjunction with the allen wrench. You may need a second person. but unless the bolt is cross threaded on put on with red locktite this method should get the bolt out. Put the bolts back with blue locktite.
Good Luck
Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Got the right side completely removed. Turned on the key to engage the fuel pump and got a fine spray shooting out the side of the bottom hose. Good thing I wasn't smoking or hand't squated down to watch before I turned the key.

So how hard is the change out once you get the new connectors?

Edit: Just read your post wardenross:

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49255&highlight=quick

How did you cut off the OEM hose clamp?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
542 Posts
mrwad said:
Got the right side completely removed. Turned on the key to engage the fuel pump and got a fine spray shooting out the side of the bottom hose. Good thing I wasn't smoking or hand't squated down to watch before I turned the key.

So how hard is the change out once you get the new connectors?

Edit: Just read your post wardenross:

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49255&highlight=quick

How did you cut off the OEM hose clamp?

No need to cut the clamps. Just take a small flat blade screwdriver that will fit in the crown piece of the clamp & Move it back and forth while holding the disconnect piece & the clamp willl open up and come right off. I have changed alot of these and always used this method.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Sounds easy enough. I will order the parts and see if I can do this without causing permanent damage to myself or the bike. Made it this far without breaking or losing anything.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
I am wondering why I need to replace the quick disconnects (slow disconnects actually) instead of just buying two hose clamps and a brass or plastic hose connector from auto zone?. I don't ever see myself needing the quick disconnect. Only a mechanic would. So why are they there?

If I spend $10 and fix this and never know why it is there, then it is worth the savings.

Comments?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
142 Posts
If you ever want to change the air filter. you won't be a happy camper without them.
If you bring it to the stealer and they have to remove the tank they might charge a disposal fee for your $3.00 +/- gals of gas..+ new clamps+ extra labor+++

good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I just needed someone to tell me why they were there. I will go with cheap repair until the next detupperwarization.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
607 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
150 Posts
Ironically I was reading this thread last week and had the problem this week-end. My wife and I were out in the boonies participating in a club scavenger hunt. At one point I wound the bike out to about six grand in second and third gears (I normally shift around 4 or 5K). Soon afterward I began to smell fuel really strongly. My wife commented over the autocom intercom that she smelled it too. I immediately thought, quick disconnects? :( Since I was in the boonies and it was just after dark I continued on for about 10 miles until I reached civilization and a gas station with a lighted area. Upon inspection of the bike while on the centerstand with the engine running I found gasoline pouring out of the right hand side of the fairing. The tip over wing had fuel dripping off of it. I then noticed that my right boot was also covered in gasoline. I knew then the problem was definitely a fuel quick disconnect. Since I only live another 7 or eight miles away I decidend to ride the bike home. Luck was with us and we made it without any problems :D
I pulled the tupperware and found the lower fitting to be the culprit. Since it was Saturday night and I had to finish the scavenger hunt on Sunday I opted for a temporary fix. Before removing the broken fitting I made a quick trip to the local Autozone and bought a 5/16" brass straight barbed coupling. After removing the quick disconnect fittings I found the 5/16" coupling was too small. It was obvious there was an O.D./I.D. measurement issue here. The package marked as 3/8" would work but by this time the auto parts stores were closed. Plan "B"! I had to ride my other BMW which is a '97 K1100LT to finish the ride on Sunday. Since I am no longer in a time crunch I may opt for the permanent repair with the steel quick connect couplings from Beemer Boneyard.
My question is; is there a flow direction on these quick disconnects or can they go in in either direction? In the pictures I have seen on this forum I see the new couplings put in in opposite directions.
Thanks and Ride Safely,
Steve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,137 Posts
K12smitty said:
My question is; is there a flow direction on these quick disconnects or can they go in in either direction?

Steve,

Either direction, see my post above and check the link for my pictures.

By the way, I live just down the road from you.

Small world!
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top