BMW Luxury Touring Community banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Cooler on the east coast!!!
Joined
·
1,243 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a fuel leak :-(
I am wondering if this is something that can be handled by me, or any fellow member locally that are will to help in my garage?

I have searched and see the lines are plastic, pressurized and have "special" crimped connectors.
I am fairly handy but don't want to get in over my head.

I did contact the local dealer and to have them repair it would be very costly, so trying to save some cash.

Any suggestions or willingness to help is greatly appreciated. :wave
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,546 Posts
I have a fuel leak :-(
I am wondering if this is something that can be handled by me, or any fellow member locally that are will to help in my garage?

I have searched and see the lines are plastic, pressurized and have "special" crimped connectors.
I am fairly handy but don't want to get in over my head.

I did contact the local dealer and to have them repair it would be very costly, so trying to save some cash.

Any suggestions or willingness to help is greatly appreciated. :wave
If you are mechanically skilled at all and have some decent tools, this should be an easy fix. Is the leak at the quick disconnects? The originals were plastic and they are famous for breaking. Some pictures of the leak area would be helpful. The most tedious part is getting the fairings off, but that isn’t hard just tedious with lots of screws to keep track of.

The Oetiker clamps come off with a little work. Just don’t twist on them too hard and break a fitting. I generally try to gently pry them open a little with a small screwdriver and then cut them with side cutter pliers. They had be hard to cut so you have to work at them for awhile. You can buy replacement Oetiker clamps and a tool to install them, but I have always just used good quality FI rated screw type clamps to replace the Oetiker and I have not had any issues.
 
  • Like
Reactions: beech

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,257 Posts
I have a fuel leak :-(
I am wondering if this is something that can be handled by me, or any fellow member locally that are will to help in my garage?

I have searched and see the lines are plastic, pressurized and have "special" crimped connectors.
I am fairly handy but don't want to get in over my head.

I did contact the local dealer and to have them repair it would be very costly, so trying to save some cash.

Any suggestions or willingness to help is greatly appreciated. :wave
Where is your fuel leak? If it is the quick disconnects being plastic and cracked, there was a recall by BMW to replace the male portion with metal. If that is your issue, I would call the dealer and see if they are still honoring that recall for your bike. Give them your VIN and see if it is covered.

If they are not still honoring a safety recall and that is still your issue, you can get replacement metal QDs from Beamer Boneyard and they come with new screw clamps. As Matt said, you can cut the old special Otiker clamps off or spread them some to remove the old broken QD pieces.

If you have a different issue, please explane where your leak is.

https://www.beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdiscon.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,223 Posts
Where is your fuel leak? If it is the quick disconnects being plastic and cracked, there was a recall by BMW to replace the male portion with metal. If that is your issue, I would call the dealer and see if they are still honoring that recall for your bike. Give them your VIN and see if it is covered.

If they are not still honoring a safety recall and that is still your issue....
.....
Gordon,
This safety recalls was published in 2004 and included 2000 to 2004 models of many BMW motorcycles using similar plastic quick-connects. At this point in time, I doubt very much the dealer can do much - although in my opinion it should be good for life of vehicle.

FURTHERMORE, the wording of the recall was such they would not replace anything else EXCEPT an o-ring or either connectors (male or female) ONLY IF there was an actual leak in this area. The replacement was not automatic just because someone had the old plastic version of the male/female quick connect.

I can still see this recall on the Canada-Transport recall site, but it does not appear anymore on the NHTSA for the USA - strange ??

P.S.: I just realized the front page of NHTSA were you enter VIN shows the following remarks about 15 years of age limit. Maybe this is the reason the recall from 2004 is not visible anymore.
------- quote from NHTSA-------
What this VIN search tool covers:
Vehicle safety recalls that are incomplete
Vehicle safety recalls conducted over the past 15 calendar years
------------------------------------
 

·
Enjoy The Ride
Joined
·
3,969 Posts
I'm in Huntersville & have the chrome plated brass connectors that Beemerboneyard sells in stock.
 

·
Cooler on the east coast!!!
Joined
·
1,243 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the response.
I have not taken anything off as of yet. I plan on starting the removal this weekend so I can not say where the leak is coming from. It leaks on the R side and and only when it is running.
I will try and get this done and then take some pictures once I find the source.
Thanks for the suggestions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,223 Posts
Thanks for the response.
I have not taken anything off as of yet. I plan on starting the removal this weekend so I can not say where the leak is coming from. It leaks on the R side and and only when it is running.
I will try and get this done and then take some pictures once I find the source.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Be careful with this if you let the engine run in such "unkown leak" case - have a fire extinguisher on hand just in case. Check / wait 6 seconds after ignition ON without starting the engine - this will let the fuel pump prime for 2 seconds - then pump will stop. When you start the engine the fuel-pump runs full time.

Most leaks happens on right side just under fuel-tank where the 2 fuel quick-couplings are located. Although this is opposite to muffler side, there is 50 PSI of pressure coming out of the main fuel pressure hose - the other rubber hose along the main hose is just a return hose and has little pressure.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Patric

·
Cooler on the east coast!!!
Joined
·
1,243 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Well I finally got the fuel lines exposed. The two lines one more forward than the other. The back one is the one that is leaking. It does seem to be coming from the connection but difficult to say for sure. I only need to turn the key to on and fuel sprays. How should I proceed from here?

Thanks for your help.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
542 Posts
It looks like from your picture that you have some quick disconnects on the bike. The first thing to check is the shape of the O ring. I replace mine every time I open them up just to be sure. You would know when/if they have been replaced. You are right, the dealer would cost a small fortune. You have done the hard work getting TO the problem. It's tight working space, and you might feel better replacing both disconnects with new ones. Good job getting this far!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,546 Posts
Well I finally got the fuel lines exposed. The two lines one more forward than the other. The back one is the one that is leaking. It does seem to be coming from the connection but difficult to say for sure. I only need to turn the key to on and fuel sprays. How should I proceed from here?

Thanks for your help.
Disconnect both quick disconnects and see if either side is plastic. If the male end is plastic, you must replace it with a metal part. Personally, I would buy a full set of metal QDs and replace them even though BMW seemed happy just replacing the male connector. I bought the Jiffy Tite brand that RPW used to sell, but since RPW changed hands and Oetiker bought Jiffy Tite, it appears that the 5/16” size is no longer made. That is a shame as these are far superior parts with no o-rings to replace.

I think your next best bet is to buy the BeemerBoneyard parts. They are like the OEM parts only metal instead of plastic. Probably the best you can do now.

If the current parts are all metal, then you probably just need to replace the o-rings.
 
  • Like
Reactions: davebullock

·
Cooler on the east coast!!!
Joined
·
1,243 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I have never replaced anything on the fuel lines. The quick disconnects are they currently what is on my bike or is that something that can be installed? If so how do I disconeect the quick connects to check the O rings?
Small world connection we have very good freinds that live in Waukesha!! Guutar tiwn USA:)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,546 Posts
I have never replaced anything on the fuel lines. The quick disconnects are they currently what is on my bike or is that something that can be installed? If so how do I disconeect the quick connects to check the O rings?
Small world connection we have very good freinds that live in Waukesha!! Guutar tiwn USA:)
It sounds like you don’t have a service manual. If not, make a Clymer manual your very first purchase. It will cover this and much, much more that you will need to know sooner or later.
 
  • Like
Reactions: davebullock

·
Registered
Joined
·
542 Posts
Voyager is right-his advice more complete than mine.

You can simply press the lever down and pull the hose apart. the rest is easy. Cutting through the clamps, etc a bit of a pain, but with new parts, you'll be happy for a long time

Yes, in Waukesha this morning-it's -27 wind chill, so no riding today!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Don't even mess with the plastic ones. Get the metal ones and be done with the repair and sleep better at night.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
493 Posts
I bought the metal (upgraded) ones from the dealer.
Didn't want to mess with other experiments as I can't return stuff from Nicaragua.
In my case the connectors were fine, but the pump collar (screwed seal?) was loose.
Replaced the connectors anyways since I was already there... (and did the Gemi chip thing).

Good luck
 

·
Cooler on the east coast!!!
Joined
·
1,243 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I do have the manual but can not find it:-( We moved and it is in one of the boxes.
I will find it and look up the fuel lines.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
493 Posts
Voyager is right-his advice more complete than mine.



You can simply press the lever down and pull the hose apart. the rest is easy. Cutting through the clamps, etc a bit of a pain, but with new parts, you'll be happy for a long time



Yes, in Waukesha this morning-it's -27 wind chill, so no riding today!


Waukesha?
Our company’s headquarters are in Sussex. Just around the corner.
I used to spend a lot of time in the area.
Lovely when not frozen.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Cooler on the east coast!!!
Joined
·
1,243 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I am attaching some pictures of the line that is leaking disconnected. Is the O ring closest to the white section? I did find my manual and the fuel line section really does not discuss or display the quick connects.

Thanks again for your help.
 

Attachments

·
Cooler on the east coast!!!
Joined
·
1,243 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Here is the manual I have.
picture will lot load in drag and drop.
 

Attachments

1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top