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Discussion Starter #1
So, today the LT sprung a fuel leak.
It’s stronger if I give it throttle.
Right side.
Could be the quick-disconnect connectors.
If anyone knows what I should buy before I take it apart, I’d appreciate it.
I need to also install the Gemi chip, so I want to do it in one go.


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Sorry to hear about the leak, especially annoying at the start of the riding season when you'd rather be riding. If you still have the original, plastic QDs on the bike, I'd order some new QDs from Beemer Boneyard and get them installed. That should solve your problem. The installation of the Gemi chip will involve considerably more Tupperware removal including the Stingray, which is significantly more than what is needed for access to the QDs.
While you're that far into the bike for the chip install, you might as well install a new air filter and fuel filter.

Good luck
 

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So, today the LT sprung a fuel leak.
It’s stronger if I give it throttle.
Right side.
Could be the quick-disconnect connectors.
If anyone knows what I should buy before I take it apart, I’d appreciate it.
I need to also install the Gemi chip, so I want to do it in one go.


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I am afraid you are just going to have to take it apart and see but a likely culprit might be the O-rings on the QD's. Hope you have a few spares. IF they are still the plastic ones, replace them. I have not been able to find the actual size listed to buy in bulk for less and hand them out at meet ups. Other than that, you have the fuel lines and the plastic nut w/seal for the pump assembly. Nut could be loose or cracked and the fuel lines may be loose or have sprung a leak. 50 PSI will find it if it is loose on the pressure side. To get to the chip, you have to remove it anyways, just make sure you locate it before you pull the tank so you don't struggle later and have to pull the tank off again.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No, I don’t have the QD.
I’ll order them before I do this.
Don’t have a dealer in this country, so everything I order takes about four weeks to get to me.


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No, I don’t have the QD.
I’ll order them before I do this.
Don’t have a dealer in this country, so everything I order takes about four weeks to get to me.


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Your LT has the OEM plastic quick disconnects that fail eventually. The hose ID is 8 mm or 5/16". When mine failed one week after I bought my first LT on a Sunday 300 miles from home I temporally repaired it at a parts store with a small 5/16" fuel filter with 2 clamps.
 

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Use fuel injection hose clips, either screw ones or better yet Oetiker crimp on ones. Not cheap ones. The O-ring in question is #11, I have some Viton ones if folks need one or two.
 

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Use fuel injection hose clips, either screw ones or better yet Oetiker crimp on ones. Not cheap ones. The O-ring in question is #11, I have some Viton ones if folks need one or two.
I have some also I got from BBY but they only came listed as QD O-rings with no size. I have not seen them listed with a size anywhere yet. I have several O-ring assortments both SAE and Metric with close but none of them fit. The BBY ones do but I have changed to Jiffy Tite QD's from the original ones so I no longer need the O-rings. Not sure if it is difficult to ship to Nicaragua or not.

#11 comes up with some results but I see 9/16 ID which seems quite large in my mind.

#11 O-Ring
9/16 in. I.D. x 3/4 in. O.D. x 3/32 in. wall thickness
 

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#11 comes up with some results but I see 9/16 ID which seems quite large in my mind. #11 O-Ring
9/16 in. I.D. x 3/4 in. O.D. x 3/32 in. wall thickness
Well got that wrong. I believe it should be #7. I'll measure them today and repost. :frown:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Should I replace all three QDs now?
Or just the one leaking?


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Should I replace all three QDs now?
Or just the one leaking?


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There are only 2 QD's. One for the supply and one for the return ( 4 pieces ) . If they are plastic, yes you should replace them both. If by chance someone has already replaced them with metal, and they are leaking, O-rings would be needed. Once you get the Tupperware off and have a good look, you should be able to easily identify where the leak is coming from. Even if it isn't the QD's, if they are plastic, you should replace them. You should use one of these two types of clamps. The spring ones will not hold. Make sure you mark what hose is what so you don't connect the pressure side to the back side of the regulator. Also, flip one QD so they can only go together in the correct orientation. Also attaching a pic of what line is what. Note the 2 different sides of the QD's in that pic. Another gotcha is, there is a spare power connector hanging that is always hot and wired in reverse to the fuel pump but uses the same plug. Mark the fuel pump connector as the bike will not run with the fuel pump running backwards or all the time with the key off.
 

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The ones I have are: 5/16" x 7/16" cross section 1/16" Viton. The package is marked -007 but the measurement are -011 AS568 dash numbers. :surprise:
I can mail these in a business envelope.
 

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Should I replace all three QDs now?
Or just the one leaking?


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I replaced my plastic OEM ones with the straight Jiffy-Tites the first year after I bought it. I've had no issue since and these have no o-rings to replace or leak. I have had these apart several times and they are the cat's pajamas. And they only cost a little more than the type which need o-rings.

https://www.racerpartswholesale.com...neKits/JiffytiteMotorcycleFuelLineDisconnects
 

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I tried to replace just o=rings from some from my local Ace... That didn't work out so well for me. Just couldn't get the size right. in the end, I went the cheap route and put in a brass connector and tightened them down. Why? I figure I won't remove the tank that often. I can easily close off the hose when I do need to remove the tank. Quick disconnects are great if you are going to repeatedly take the tank off and put it on again. I don't put enough miles on the bike to need quick disconnects - travel out of town too often. You could do the temp fix and ride the bike for a few weeks while waiting for your parts to arrive.
 

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I tried to replace just o=rings from some from my local Ace... That didn't work out so well for me. Just couldn't get the size right. in the end, I went the cheap route and put in a brass connector and tightened them down. Why? I figure I won't remove the tank that often. I can easily close off the hose when I do need to remove the tank. Quick disconnects are great if you are going to repeatedly take the tank off and put it on again. I don't put enough miles on the bike to need quick disconnects - travel out of town too often. You could do the temp fix and ride the bike for a few weeks while waiting for your parts to arrive.
Clamping off a high pressure fuel line is very rough on it, especially after a few years of age. I much prefer the disconnects to avoid the need to risk damaging the fuel lines.
 

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If the lines are old and can't handle a few minutes of being clamped, they probably should be replaced anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I got 3 QD from BMW.
They’re expensive and the new metal type.

Also got the RDC repair kits for my repaired RDC sensors that will go in my GS 17” SM conversion.


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