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I probably should not ask but just how important is it to replace the fuel filter on an LT? Seams like a lot of work when you consider that you can drive a car 100K without changing one. OK, let me have it!
 

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If you are changing the air filter (really essential) you are almost there.
It isn't much more work really.
 

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I debated the replacement as well, however having stalling issues - I could think of no reason not to while I had the tank off. Be very careful taking off the fuel lines where they connect!

I also decided to have the dealer change the fuel filter, and darn glad I did. Not to say I could not have done it, but I did not want a hose clamp failure for one, and did not want to risk any unnecessary leak.

What happened to me was, one of the small hoses to the tank had a crack and a small slice in it, probably from trying to get it off, by me or from a previous repair. Replacement cost for one 5" piece of preformed hose was $75.

I decided there had to be a less expensive piece of high pressure hose somewhere, there was none to be found.

I used what I had around the house, not HP, and put the bike together. Big mistake! Thankfully I posted the question, and changed it before it blew.

I then had to buy a 3' length of BMW hose and install that, with all but the lower fairing installed. Not easy by any means.

Had I known better, I would have had two lengths of the 3' hose installed by the dealer using the tiny crimped connectors to the tank ends. I just did not want to risk any leaks vs the $20 charge to change the filter. It was worth the piece of mind to me.

In the process of all this, my fuel gage no longer works properly. Still not sure what the answer to that is. I have since used Sea Foam fuel cleaner in every tank, hoping that some debris got stuck in the float tube and that it might dissolve whatever is in there.

If you have a 99/00 LT, you may also want to disconnect the air intake temp sensor, which may cause hesitation. I too had not heard of that until I was done putting the bike together. Too late now unless I want to take the bike apart.

More than a few QD fuel line failures mentioned, so I did without. They are also about $85. If you go with the longer lines, you can take the tank off and not need to disconnect the lines, or, you can cut off half an inch, and have plenty for future service to do what you need to.
 

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yechave said:
but I did not want a hose clamp failure for one, and did not want to risk any unnecessary leak.
Now you've got me paranoid... Are you just talking about the factory clamps on the filter itself or ones on the outside.

1.) Is there any problem with using mechanical replacements on the fuel filter?

Actually the filter came loose without uncrimping it... and my LT was running fine before I took it apart.

2.) Is there that much pressure in the fuel lines?

"Now you've got me paranoid... "
 

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BaronVonGregg said:
Now you've got me paranoid... Are you just talking about the factory clamps on the filter itself or ones on the outside.

1.) Is there any problem with using mechanical replacements on the fuel filter?

Actually the filter came loose without uncrimping it... and my LT was running fine before I took it apart.

2.) Is there that much pressure in the fuel lines?

"Now you've got me paranoid... "
He's talking about the fuel line quick disconnects (there are two), which you have to disconnect to remove the gas tank. They are stock (cheap) plastic, and not what one would call a "marvel of German Engineering". They fail regularly.

You can replace them with stainless steel for about $60.00, and not have to worry about them coming apart at an inopportune time.
 

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I changed my fuel filter recently. I used a small screwdriver to spread the original clamps and reused them. I also replaced the quick disconnects with stainless steel ones. Be careful when removing, the lines will be under pressure. I got a face full of gas. Good thing I had my glasses on. You will need a crimp tool to reuse the BMW clamps. My filter was hard to get the hoses off. If yours just pulled off, it was too loose. Just make sure it's tight when you go back with it............... :)
 

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The main thing is getting the arrows lined up where the fuel pump cap screws back on. BMW mechanic said if the arrows don't line up, your tank won't register.
 

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Thanx Rattler & TX

Anybody have issues with screw clamps inside the tank.

The crimp ones on there are in good shape as I didn't have to expande them to get the filter off... Not sure if I should reuse em... Don't have the offical tool
 

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BaronVonGregg said:
...Anybody have issues with screw clamps inside the tank.The crimp ones on there are in good shape as I didn't have to expande them to get the filter off... Not sure if I should reuse em... Don't have the offical tool
If you want to use the screw types, try good ones like these. They are chamfered and don't gouge or cut the fuel lines.

One day my LT wouldn't fire up. I looked at everything. Finally I tore into the gas tank and found one of the OEM clamps had actually blown off the fuel line. I replaced it with a good screw type like the one I referenced.

So, check your filter and connections every 24,000 or so. May save you some headaches.
 

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You can purchase the official tool at a welding supply store. The originals are the best. They are strong and have the little hose protector under them........... :) .......But, screw clamps will work if they are good ones.
 

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I've had the same experience with bike not firing up one day, only to find that one of the pipes had blown off the filter - replaced mine with the screw type. At least with the screw type they can be tightened up progressively to ensure a tight fit. The original seemed to have loosened over time (03 model)
 

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BaronVonGregg said:
Thanx Rattler & TX

Anybody have issues with screw clamps inside the tank.

The crimp ones on there are in good shape as I didn't have to expande them to get the filter off... Not sure if I should reuse em... Don't have the offical tool
I have reused the BMW clamps on the fuel filter multiple times. I stretched them a little with a same screwdriver and then resqueezed them with a pair of wire cutters applied judiciously. No problems. After having done this 3 or 4 times I decided to change them out because I started to worry about metal fatigue.
 

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Re: Fuel Filter
The main thing is getting the arrows lined up where the fuel pump cap screws back on. BMW mechanic said if the arrows don't line up, your tank won't register.


I am a little more than troubled by this statement.

I took photos of before and after the filter change, via the dealer, of the positioning of the cap screw. They were not lined up the same, the arrows were off by maybe a little more than a quarter inch or so.

Not having known this could have caused my fuel gage to not work, I inquired and was lead to believe it was dirt or something else and was suggested I pull the float tube. If this is the problem, I am none to happy, having paid for the experience of a BMW mechanic to align the parts properly.

Not knowing if this is the cause of my fuel gage not working, will haunt me until I figure it out. I had NO problems with it, until the filter was changed. I would take quite some doing to go through my photo files to find the before and after pics.

Anyone know just how far off alignment the arrows can be, before this would cause the gage not to show full, and/or take a very long time to register how much fuel is in the tank after filling it?

There are just some days I wish I had bought a GW. This is one of those moments.... I have never owned any bike that needed so much maintenance and $$$$$$, and have yet to experience a decent ride anywhere with it.

Time to go back to bed.

Thanks~
 

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yechave said:
Re: Fuel Filter
The main thing is getting the arrows lined up where the fuel pump cap screws back on. BMW mechanic said if the arrows don't line up, your tank won't register.


I am a little more than troubled by this statement.

I took photos of before and after the filter change, via the dealer, of the positioning of the cap screw. They were not lined up the same, the arrows were off by maybe a little more than a quarter inch or so.

Not having known this could have caused my fuel gage to not work, I inquired and was lead to believe it was dirt or something else and was suggested I pull the float tube. If this is the problem, I am none to happy, having paid for the experience of a BMW mechanic to align the parts properly.

Not knowing if this is the cause of my fuel gage not working, will haunt me until I figure it out. I had NO problems with it, until the filter was changed. I would take quite some doing to go through my photo files to find the before and after pics.

Anyone know just how far off alignment the arrows can be, before this would cause the gage not to show full, and/or take a very long time to register how much fuel is in the tank after filling it?

There are just some days I wish I had bought a GW. This is one of those moments.... I have never owned any bike that needed so much maintenance and $$$$$$, and have yet to experience a decent ride anywhere with it.

Time to go back to bed.

Thanks~
Wayne if you are within 1/4 " of arrow alignment this a non issue.
 

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Hey Pete,

I think I wish that had been the problem. Would have been an easy fix later on.

My gage does not work properly now, which it did prior to the filter change.

Just looking for clues why that is, and how to fix it. It just did not seem likely it was related to the float tube. Six tanks of fuel cleaner should have taken care of any debris.

I do not intend to take anything apart on this bike for another 15k miles -at least that is the plan.

Still have to install the new battery and hope to get on the road later this week. That let me down last wed.

Been busy with other problems around the house, had surgery last wed that did not go well and still hurts way too much. Won't risk riding on the pain meds.

Other than that, can't complain.

Just curious if you got another bike since the test ride?

Have a great Holiday!
 
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