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Discussion Starter #1
Hey while looking for info on this problem I came across this website. I have been lurking and reading and searching to learn more about these bikes. I found great info that helped me fix the abs system on the bike and saved me a ton of money.

The only thing left to figure out on this bike is the fuel and temp gauge go to full and off scale on the hot side as soon as the ignition is turned on.

I found a wiring schematic for the bike but it is in german and I have figured out some of the words and colors on the schematic. I am thinking there is a ground problem somewhere and was wondering if someone has had this problem or not. Or maybe someone could tell me how to check the sending unit to make sure it is good.

I see both gauges share the same ground. I am about to take the fuel tank off to get better access to the wiring harness.

thanks in advance.

Kip
 

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Might have lost the common ground if they both are doing the same thing. Else if just one was going that, I'd suspect that the wire between the sender/sensor and the guage would be shorted to ground.

I've not experienced that symptom but in all of the other automotive applications I've ever seen, that the deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yeah thats how Im leaning just wanted to see if it was something someone else has seen. If I find the problem Ill post the fix.
 

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cmartin248 said:
I have the same problem with both gauges reading high off scale.. did you ever find the problem? THanks, Clyde
OK, I'll take a stab, since I happen to be looking at the wiring diagram right now. Note that my comments pertain to the "old-style" cluster (pre-'05?), such as on my 2001 model.

Both temperature and fuel gauge in the cluster rely on three signals: one is their sensor, which operates by being a certain resistance to ground. The less resistance, the higher the indication. Short on that input would peg the indicator - but it is not very likely that you have a simultaneous short on wires to temperature sender and to fuel tank. Still, inspect the wiring bundle from the instrument cluster for any suspicious nicks and rubbed-through insulation.

The other inputs two are instrument-panel supply (12V while ignition on) and ground.

Ground is coming to the cluster on brown wire, position 4 of connector X9001. It could be the issue and is worth checking out, but I believe it is not the cause. The same ground is used by gear position indicator and by the tach - and you did not write that it is faulty. That means that the internal ground circuit in the cluster has some issues. Meaning that you may have to open the cluster and check for corrosion inside.

Look for threads here that deal with re-calibrating the speedometer - there should be info on how to pull the IP cluster out.
 

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Thanks for the information. I should have said that its a 2000 K1200lt and I don't have any other electrical problems except the two gauges. Removed all the fairings and checked the gauge terminals. The green wire to both is the +12vdc and the brown wire is the (-). The negative appears to be good because I placed a jumper on both gauges to ground and no change. Checked all the major grounds as clean and tight. If I disconnect the fuel sensor, the fuel gauge goes down and if I disconnect the water pump temperature the temperature gauge goes down. I even replaced the temperature sensor and no change. Thought I was pretty good on electrical troubleshooting, but this one has me stumped. Guess I'll put the ##%&@^#$% thing back together and use my mileage as my fuel gauge. Just bought the bike a couple of weeks ago and been trying to fix all the little things it needs. Some one had laid it down on the the right side and they dissembled it to paint the whole bike. They put it back together with tractor bolts and bailing wire...
 

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I suspect that Mortum is the guy that sold me the bike, so this is not a normal problem. After a lot of effort and testing, it appears that both of the gauges are bad. Ordered a use fuel gauge from Ebay. I have to say this is my first BMW motorcycle, but have owned several BMW autos. Working on this bike is terrible. All the clip nuts, torx, allen, and philips make any repairs a major effort. I spent 8 hours today just to trouble shoot the gauges. Most of that time was trying to align the fairing and various parts. My initial impression is that they hired some kid to bolt the fairing on and gave him a box of various nuts, bolt and clips. I am discussed with the amount of work to get the cluster out. I like the ride, but the repairs suck. Been riding and repairing bikes for 45 years and never seen anything like this...
 

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Well, the access to parts is indeed not easy, but that is what you pay for having a fully clothed luxury tourer.

One problem is that impatient/unskilled owners rip the bike apart and then put it haphazardly back together.

Since you write that you are not a novice when it comes to wrenching, you will figure out the system needed to service the machine. For example, the body fasteners: shortest are for single panel to metal threads, intermediate for two panels to clip nuts, longest for body panels to rubber well nuts.

Actually, my own system is to use little envelopes to hold and sort fasteners as I take the panels off. Unfortunately, your bikes' previous owners apparently made a mess of it; you'll have to first sort it out yourself. Still, once you get the hang of it, it is not a bad job.
 

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Clyde,

You and I need to hook up some time over coffee. I can help you sort out any issues on that fine machine.
 
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