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Discussion Starter #1
I have the rear shock off, the front shock completely lose with the top rubber bushing removed. I removed the brake connector on the fork RS. I have a jack under the motor. Not nearly enough clearance in the hose or wires, to lift the bike very much. How high up does it go if the calipers are disconnected?

The allen screw on the left side of the fork does not look like its been off in 8 years and is not budging. Instructions suggest to remove brake calipers. Have not attempted that either.

The Clymer manual is showing tools for this job I do not have.

Any suggestions, comments?

Hate to give up after getting this far.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Finally, after beating my hand numb getting off the 3mm brake line support screw (haven't had my easy-outs out of the box in twenty some years, damn glad I kept them), I was able to manage to pry the old front shock out. The new shock looks to be exactly the same dimensions. I would seem to me, a spring compressor of sorts would be the ticket to get the extra 1/4" clearance needed, to not have to force this in.

The winds are becoming a problem now, so.....have to see if I can manage getting the is rather sooner than later, or option B, letting it sit another week to think on it.

Didn't want to waste anyone's time should they have thought to reply to the first post. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just talking myself through the project..

I managed to get the new shock inside the frame, the top nut on. Now my problem is, the bottom is nowhere near close to aligning with the bottom bracket. Possibly, with the rear shock removed, the back end needs to be lifted to get the front shock to line up for attachment.

The secrete to getting the front shock on and off, was to remove the top, inside the frame, rubber washer first, install the shock, then put the washer on. Plenty of room. The same to get the old one out. I have not seen that mentioned in any threads on this subject. This will save someone A LOT of time and aggravation.

Suggestions on getting the front bolts to line up, would be appreciated.

Thanks!
 

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Not exactly sure where your at in the process but you should just be able to lower the jack until the bolt lines up....... Note the top nut should be off until you get the bottom bolt on.
 

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Re: Just talking myself through the project..

yechave said:
The secrete to getting the front shock on and off, was to remove the top, inside the frame, rubber washer first, install the shock, then put the washer on. Plenty of room. The same to get the old one out. I have not seen that mentioned in any threads on this subject. This will save someone A LOT of time and aggravation.
I've only mentioned it a dozen times, or so.



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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
A couple of hours later, both shocks are now on. Area car parts supplier does not have the green #270 loctite....

** I've reviewed as many posts as I could on this subject, as well as checked in HOW. I did not see the information on that washer. You would think, that would have been important enough to put in the instruction manual.

The problem was, the rear was WAY too low with the back shock off. I installed the rear shock (still too far off on the front), then used a jack to lift the back of the bike, and the front shock holes fell right into place.

Just need to buy a few new bolts and screws, and that should do it for the shocks.

I am glad this is just about over with.......

Another week or so, and we should be back on the road, I hope.

Gotta wonder what is the purpose of putting the screw adjustment on the bottom of the front shock, when it can't be reached after it is installed? Turns out, that is the oil fill hole. Be nice had they mentioned that in the instructions.

Next problem, the preload adjuster does not go to the storage position. I am waiting for Ohlin's tech support to get an answer. They said someone else had the same problem last week. I have a wiring harness in the way underneath, and I had to grind a radius on the aluminum mounting fixture so that did not cut into another wiring harness up top.

Sure hope my education helps someone else about to do their shocks. Could have saved an enormous amount of time had I known just the rubber washer trick!
 

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yechave said:
Could have saved an enormous amount of time had I known just the rubber washer trick!
I Have changed my shocks out twice. Both times I came to this forum, did a search and found detailed instructions, printed them out and did the job in easy time. Those instructions do include the removal of the rubber washer before attempting to take out the front shock. Once the front is in place, secure the bottom bolt first, then guide the top in while lowering the jack.
Sorry you had a hard time with it. I don't have a Clymer or any other manual. I just always come here and search, then do.
Good luck on future jobs.
Remember there are tons of goodies here, just have to look for them.
 

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yechave said:
A couple of hours later, both shocks are now on. Area car parts supplier does not have the green #270 loctite....

** I've reviewed as many posts as I could on this subject, as well as checked in HOW. I did not see the information on that washer. You would think, that would have been important enough to put in the instruction manual.

The problem was, the rear was WAY too low with the back shock off. I installed the rear shock (still too far off on the front), then used a jack to lift the back of the bike, and the front shock holes fell right into place.

Just need to buy a few new bolts and screws, and that should do it for the shocks.

I am glad this is just about over with.......

Another week or so, and we should be back on the road, I hope.

Gotta wonder what is the purpose of putting the screw adjustment on the bottom of the front shock, when it can't be reached after it is installed? Turns out, that is the oil fill hole. Be nice had they mentioned that in the instructions.

Next problem, the preload adjuster does not go to the storage position. I am waiting for Ohlin's tech support to get an answer. They said someone else had the same problem last week. I have a wiring harness in the way underneath, and I had to grind a radius on the aluminum mounting fixture so that did not cut into another wiring harness up top.

Sure hope my education helps someone else about to do their shocks. Could have saved an enormous amount of time had I known just the rubber washer trick!
Sounds like a mess. What year is your bike? Could there be a missmatch of the Ohlins parts for the newer vs older LT's?
Jim
 

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yechave said:
Next problem, the preload adjuster does not go to the storage position. I am waiting for Ohlin's tech support to get an answer. They said someone else had the same problem last week. I have a wiring harness in the way underneath, and I had to grind a radius on the aluminum mounting fixture so that did not cut into another wiring harness up top.
Yes it will, just angle it about 45 degrees when mounting.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
This is a 99, and I am using the BM 851 shocks. I just forwarded pics to the Ohlin's service person, will see what they have to say in an hour or so. It would seem to me, the line coming out of the adjuster, should have been in a different position.

I have all kinds of wiring harnesses in the way. I've cut the ties on two of them and tried to relocate those, and then something else is in the way. I am sure there is an answer, but I have had enough for today.

Will update the progress next week. ;^/
 

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Re: Just talking myself through the project..

grifscoots said:
I've only mentioned it a dozen times, or so.
Sorry Wayne but true
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I contacted Ohlins and spoke for about 20 mins with their top guy. He too was not sure about the mounting issue with the preload adjuster. At his request, I reversed the bracket, ground some off for the line to fit, and that apparently, did not work either. Ohlin's stated their label should be on top (which it is not), and the line pointed towards the rear of the bike, which it does not fit like that on this install.

It does not match the diagram offered by Ohlins. I removed a number of wiring harness ties. Ground off the corners of the aluminum mount. Anyone else mounted this on a 99 or used the BM 851 shock, appreciate any pics.

Ohlin's preload pics / Motolight wire goes ?

See the photos here:
http://www.sendpix.com/albums/08042417/zim173w6ng/

After completing this adventure, I noticed one wire from the Motolight switch was not attached. This came from the on/off switch with a B&W, to a connector, which had two black wires. One went to what I believe is a relay, the other I would guess should be a ground. I saw nothing at all where the wire was routed. Anyone knows, I would appreciate the confirmation before I hook it to ground.

There is also a hole in the right side luggage. Any reason this should be there?

Double left click the album to enlarge the pics, back button to return to album.

I do not have any tools as shown in the Clymer's manual to torque the top of the front shock. From the information I was given, I was told to apply the loctite to the threads, and I am assuming I tighten this to the approximate distance as the shock that was removed, which was 8mm of thread showing. If this is not correct, I would appreciate other suggestions.

Is there an after market electrical buss bar (or some other alternative), to connect 5-8 wire ends to, and then one to the battery. I have at least five connections on each terminal, and it is very tight.

I would also appreciate a link for the metal QD fuel disconnects, anyone has that please.

Thanks!
 

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I used a Blue Sea fues block on mine, 6 fuses. You can get them at marine stores. My pre load adjuster would not just fit like stock either so i had to just play with it and move it around a bit and all was fine.
 

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yechave said:
There is also a hole in the right side luggage. Any reason this should be there?
I couldn't tell from the picture, but if the hole is on the front of the luggage compartment, it could be from the CD player, if it was removed. Easy enough to plug.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I still have the wiring in place for the CD changer. Just was not sure if that was a factory hole, or someone added something. A few owners back, the man had a trailer on this. Duct tape will work for now.
 
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