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Discussion Starter #1
Trying to find the bleed point for the front right caliper. The other brakes have a screw with a dust cover, but the right front caliper does not have this fitting. next to the hydraulic hose it has an approx. 3/4" cylinder with what looks to be a grub screw in the top. Does this whole attachment have to be removed to install speed bleeders?

Beautiful day here in Canberra today. 17 degrees Celcius and not a cloud in the sky (shame about the work!!).
 

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The best thing to do is remove the entire assembly with the grub screw from the caliper and install a speed bleeder in its place. Be sure to heat the caliper when removing it as it has lock tight on it and will strip out the threads if forced.
 

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Colin1952 said:
Trying to find the bleed point for the front right caliper. The other brakes have a screw with a dust cover, but the right front caliper does not have this fitting. next to the hydraulic hose it has an approx. 3/4" cylinder with what looks to be a grub screw in the top. Does this whole attachment have to be removed to install speed bleeders?

Beautiful day here in Canberra today. 17 degrees Celcius and not a cloud in the sky (shame about the work!!).
That cylinder is a factory fill fitting. The official bleeding procedure calls for removing the grub screw, inserting a bleeder (which unseats an internal check valve), bleeding the system, removing the bleeder, and replacing the grub screw.

Many of us, however, just removed the cylinder and put a bleeder in the hole permanently.

NOTE! The cylinder is secured with Locktite. You may get lucky and be able to remove it without damage (I've done a few this way), but the smarter way is to lightly heat the caliper at the threads to soften the locktite, lest you break off the fitting in the caliper (this has happened to at least one list member).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Mark and Jim for the prompt reply. Did try to give it a quick loosen but it was on tight and didn't want to damage anything.

Never having had to use heat in a situation like this, what do you recommend for the heating of the thread? Sorry to be asking so many questions, but it is a steep learning curve from someone just getting into doing their own work on the bike.

Thanks again.
 

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Colin1952 said:
Never having had to use heat in a situation like this, what do you recommend for the heating of the thread?
No problem with the Qs -- that's one of the reasons this community exists.

A heat gun (or even a hair drier) used judiciously will work -- the idea is to only soften the Locktite, not to melt any plastic or rubber nearby.

I realize this next bit may not be terribly helpful, but here goes: When you put the wrench on the flats of the fill fitting, turn it ***very*** slowly, so that you can "feel" the locktite begin to release its grip -- obviously, the objective is to go slow enough so that if you *think* the fitting is starting to strip out or fracture, you can stop before it fails. Also be *sure* you only rotate the fitting, i.e., you do not apply any lateral loads on the fitting.

HTH!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Mark. Yes, it helps a lot. Will see what is available in heat guns and give it a go.
 

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Right caliper filler adapter removal

I also want to remove the right caliper filler adapter from my '99LT and replace it with a bleed screw.

I understand heating is required to soften the loctite. The service manual calls for:

1. Removal of the caliper.
2. Clamping in a vice upside down.
3. Heat to 176 F
4. Use a scribing tool to clean loctite from threads.
5. Blow out threads with compressed air.

If I'm going to flush the brake fluid with a mity vac drawing fluid from the reservoir through a new bleed valve, is removal of the caliper and the thread cleaning part necessary?

Thanks.

Joe
 

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Did mine on the bike without any problems. Just get a heat gun and carefully heat the fitting then give it a turn. I had to repeat this process several times before I got the fitting off..Gave me an excuse to buy a non contact pyrometer at the tool store !

No real need to pull the caliper.

Just heat it up, turn it, heat it up , turn it... it'll come off and once the speed bleeders are installed the actual bleeding of the brakes and clutch are a snap...

Good luck

John
 

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Good Answer!

Thank you, John. That's the answer I wanted!

Joe
 
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