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Hi all. My '99 LT is in parts all over the garage. Bad timing. But I was almost ready to start putting it back together when I noticed what at first I thought was brake fluid on the left front fork tube, down near the where the brake line goes horizontal and then down to the left front caliper. Closer inspection shows the fluid to be fork oil leaking from the left tube and slider junction. I've read through the HOW and the tech articles, and have done a search, but I have not found any descriptions here of removing and replacing the fork seal. Careful analysis of 13 seconds or so tells me that I should be able to leave the sliders attached to the lower fork bridge, loosen the upper connections of the tubes to the steering bridge, turn the steering bridge to give me room, and pull those tubes straight up out of the sliders. Then the issue would be to get at the seals in the sliders, remove the oil seal and replace it, drain the rest of the fork oil and replace it, re-install the tube into the slider, and re-connect it to the steering bridge. Has anyone tried this? The alternative, from the Clymer manual, looks like a true PITA and I'd like to find an easier way if there is one. Thanks in advance for any advice.
 

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Search a bit harder. I know its in there as I've done it with the help of the forum.

From Memory,
Jack the front of the bike up and remove the wheel.
Remove the lower fork bridge (and stuff!)
once the bridge is loose the fork tube will slide right down and off.

once off, pry the dust cover and seal out. Use an appropriate diameter tool (large socket) to drive the new seal in.

Replace the lost fork oil,

grab some dental floss (yes, dental floss) hang a loop inside the top of the tube when reinstalling it to allow the air to escape...

I will try to find the post and link it if and when I find it... Real easy to accomplish!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, Hoss, but this was the procedure that I wanted to avoid if at all possible. It's also the one in the Clymer book. Lots of fiddly parts to unscrew/remove (wheel, caliper, ABS sensor on the left, brake lines connected on the left and right, lower fork bridge bolts, upper fork bridge bolts; some of these with Loctite on them). I'm hoping more to be able to go in from the top, take the tubes out of the sliders, and get the seal and stuff out of the sliders without having to remove them or any parts connected to them. Just Lazy, I guess.
 

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was said:
Thanks, Hoss, but this was the procedure that I wanted to avoid if at all possible. It's also the one in the Clymer book. Lots of fiddly parts to unscrew/remove (wheel, caliper, ABS sensor on the left, brake lines connected on the left and right, lower fork bridge bolts, upper fork bridge bolts; some of these with Loctite on them). I'm hoping more to be able to go in from the top, take the tubes out of the sliders, and get the seal and stuff out of the sliders without having to remove them or any parts connected to them. Just Lazy, I guess.
Well, if you take the top route, your in for one hell of a tear down (4+ hours). All the forward tupperware, stingray, dash cover, dash panel, HB covers need to be removed just to get to the tubes.

The lower (attach to the wheel) tubes are what carry the seal. You will not be able to seat the seals by simply sliding them on and good luck getting them out.

Removing the wheel - 1 bolt
Removing the brakes - 4 bolts
Removing the lower bridge (one side at a time) - 4 bolts
Removing the forward fender - 4 bolts

Did mine in less than 90 min, start to finish....


But then again, I'm an amateur!
 

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shoswell said:
Well, if you take the top route, your in for one hell of a tear down (4+ hours). All the forward tupperware, stingray, dash cover, dash panel, HB covers need to be removed just to get to the tubes.

The lower (attach to the wheel) tubes are what carry the seal. You will not be able to seat the seals by simply sliding them on and good luck getting them out.

Removing the wheel - 1 bolt
Removing the brakes - 4 bolts
Removing the lower bridge (one side at a time) - 4 bolts
Removing the forward fender - 4 bolts

Did mine in less than 90 min, start to finish....


But then again, I'm an amateur!
Like Hoss says here, this IS the easy way! It may seem tedious, but if you just take it slow, and do make sure you do not let the calipers hang by the hoses (use string, wire, or bungies to support them), it really is quite simple. That thread pretty much has all the info you'll need.

Good Luck,
John
 

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Make sure you replace the wipers too, and if you don't want to do this job again for a loooong time put some boots on while you're there: ;)

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8763&highlight=installing+boots

If you see any etching on the fork tubes - and due to the age of your bike you probably will - rotate the tubes 90 degrees to expose a fresh surface to the primary fore/aft load bearing. Your new seals won't wear out as fast. I always like to give the tubes a quick rub down with 0000 steel wool to remove any microscopic debris and several rinses with Acetone and a 100% cotton rag before reassembly. A light coating of fork oil before installing them in the new seals is a good idea as well, then wipe it off.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Many thanks, all, especially Hoss for the thread. I should have mentioned that the bike already is completely stripped (I was doing a major tune-up with new air filter, new gas filter, valve clearance, brake pads, brake fluid flush and fill, clutch fluid flush and fill, etc., when I noticed the seepage of the fork oil), so getting at the nut that holds the upper fork tube to the upper fork bridge is no problem in this case. However, I will bow to the superior wisdom of the group and remove the wheel, unbolt the caliper and ABS sensor, unbolt the slider from the lower fork bridge, etc. Again, thanks for your thoughts.
 
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